Mine is just enough to make a hum in the shaft, so I should have enough adjustment in the caster to make it fine. Eventually I want adjustable uppers to push the axle out a little as well but for now it should do.

I don't have jack stands that tall actually for the frame :/. I was thinking of using the jack on the rear of the pumpkin before the yoke where it's flat.. is that an issue? I don't think it'll need to be adjusted much.

 

This is what i just had to do. Lift the jeep, put stands under the frame and then use a jack on the back side of the coil bucket. Got me about a 1/4" of movement but need UCA in my case

 

Look at the frame side LCA mount. Do you see if there is any play in the caster adjustment hole?

 

The coil springs are off-set of axle and tend to push pinion up when adjusters are loosened. A push or roll of the front wheels will help it along.

 

Thats good to know

 

No, everything is tight. But i do need to replace my passenger side shoe while I'm at it.

Thanks, hopefully I have enough adjustment with just the LCAs.

 

Its no problem from a driveline POV however the rear slip joint is lubricated by the transfer case fluid so you'll run it dry unless you find a way to plug the output shaft.

 

you need shims for the adjusters

 

Only if bringing the pinion down. Shims iirc increases the negative caster by pushing the LCA forward. He wants to do the opposite. Or at least thats how it sounds

 

Yup, should be removing not adding shims.

 

Like said, im in the same boat. Tried to adjust my passenger side the other day. Had about 1/2" play more than driver side so i lifted her and jacked the back of the coil bucket. Didn't give my pinion much. Just gonna save up for IRO adjustable uppers for 160. I get vibes at 65mph+ but on windy days and inclines i can feel them slightly

 

So my passenger side tail light is out, but break light still works. I traced the wires back to a white connector inside my right rear quarter panel. Upon inspection, I noticed one of the prongs inside had broken off into the female side of the connector. My question is, can I use any kind of automotive electrical connector to replace is as long as it has enough places for existing wires to go into it? Or should I try to find one at the junk yard to use? Either way I'm probably going to have to splice wires

 

I'll try to get a picture of the driveline angle tomorrow.

 

Is WJ Dana 44A an upgrade over the WJ Dana 35? Or are they both equally weak?

 

Check your grounds especially the one in the engine bay directly opposite the cluster.