Now you tell me. I already put F250 mirrors on.

 

http://www.quadratec.com/jeep_knowle...article-24.htm

First Google hit lol

 

Nice

 

Quick question for all you gurus. I have a 87 Honda civic lowered with an electric turbo fan, and im not getting much power, any advice?
NAH!!!!!
truck, 92 Cherokee Laredo 4.0 straight 6.
the dam temp gauge on the cluster acts a little downzy.
it get to the first line before normal temp (center) and that's it. I unplugged the sensor attached to the thermo housing and the gauge is unaffected by this

Am I testing this right? I just bought the jeep and I suspect some kind of cover up.
I know there is a temp sender, is this the one that affect the gauge on the cluster?

thanks. btw, I do not drive a ricer. lol

 

190-210° is acceptable operating range for an XJ 4.0L in most climates.

 

Yes, ish. The gauge is driven by a different sensor at the rear of the head.

 

Okay experts. Both of these are 75 freaking foot-pounds. Which one is correct? Is there even a correct one? I'm concerned with how squished the grease boots are versus thread exposed.

 

Torque it and grease it. If it falls off, start over.

 

Ok, ill test the sending unit next. I wanted a second opinion before I crawled back there. thanks

 

back off the less squished one, then toque it again.

 

Well it's a bit warm for a touque, but I backed off the squished one and tried tightening again. Same result. I took a look at the other lower BJs here and decided to tighten it enough so that the nut wouldn't turn with the steering knuckle. There's still more exposed thread than the other 5. (P/S of this same axle, original axles in my '99 and '01). Dunno if this Spicer unit is defective or what. Anti-sieze says quite clearly that there is no torque reduction required

Should I just crank it down anyway and live with the squashed grease boot?

 

First, the top ball joint will adjust with the opening of the steering knuckle. It in has about 3/8" of in and out play. The bottom joint is the one that resist ALL the up/down motion.
Second, the rubber is just a dust booth. There's grease in it normally but that's not where the lubrication is required. Its inside the ball joint. When they start bulging while greasing that mean the grease made it past the ball.

If you go to tight (to a point) that just mean that next time you have to replace it, it will be harder separate it from the knuckle. It will not change anything on the functionality of the ball joints. If you have a 3 foot wrench and go stupid tight, you risk damaging the steering knuckle part as it will be forced to open from the tapered stud going true.

 

I recently replaced the radiator on a 2001 Sport. The transplant went fine except that the trucks granny fluid was jet black. I drained what I could and replaced with new fluid. The motor runs better than ever except now from a dead stop during acceleration there is an unfamiliar rattle from the passenger side mid truck. Any ideas?

 

Thanks for the info, but uh, how should I proceed? Top joints tightened up just fine. Am I correct in interpreting that I should just tighten it to spec anyway? I thought these should only go so far on account of the stud and hole bring tapered?

 

Germain specs.. goodandtight...

75Ft/lb