Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here XJ (84-01)
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Old Jul 5, 2013 | 01:19 PM
  #32851  
DieselD's Avatar
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Year: '99 and '91
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Originally Posted by Tony_SS
Need some help removing the head.

All the deep well sockects wont fit over the head bolts studs that stick up on the right hand side... any idea's?
A deeper deep well.

A wrenchable (right word?) Socket

Turn the socket you do have with a vice grip or channel lock(the stud should be able to fit through the square "socket hole"

Try a box end wrench, a stubby? Ratcheting?

I've never had the pleasure of doing a head so I don't know for sure what would/could work.
Old Jul 5, 2013 | 01:21 PM
  #32852  
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Originally Posted by motoo344
Probably the stupidest question I will ever ask. I've been doing a bunch of maintenance on the 98 Cherokee I just bought, however, I cannot figure out how to fold or remove the rear seats! It seems like it is stuck in the middle, I thought these things just slid up and out of the way or folded forward?
There's a lever (as in the pic above) sometime you have to hit em both at the same time if they're a little stuck. Then there is little pull handles on the bottom bench, pull it up and forward. There should also be a lever I believe, to remove the bottom part all together.
Old Jul 5, 2013 | 02:17 PM
  #32853  
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Originally Posted by DieselD
There's a lever (as in the pic above) sometime you have to hit em both at the same time if they're a little stuck. Then there is little pull handles on the bottom bench, pull it up and forward. There should also be a lever I believe, to remove the bottom part all together.
I got it, the middle of the bench seat was stuck, for whatever reason that metal hook just wouldn't come out of the little piece that it clicks into on the floor pan. Thanks.
Old Jul 5, 2013 | 02:19 PM
  #32854  
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Originally Posted by motoo344

I got it, the middle of the bench seat was stuck, for whatever reason that metal hook just wouldn't come out of the little piece that it clicks into on the floor pan. Thanks.
It happens, throw a dab of grease on it.
Old Jul 5, 2013 | 02:23 PM
  #32855  
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From: Lakewood, CO
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Default tie rod end to pitman arm .. lost dust boot

93 XJ 4x4, 3" lift

do the dust boots do anything besides keep dirt out? or does it aid in dampening?

noticed the boot I replaced 6 months ago is gone .. tie rod end to pitman arm

been thinking my track bar needs a pro to tighten it (upper attach), popping sound coming from that area, only when warm outside .. cold temps, no pop

OR .. do you think the tie rod end is bad ? really hard to pin point the pop sound .. only does it when in motion and turning

was about to replace the boot again .. but why waste $5 if the tie rod is bad, any other way to test it ?

thanks
Old Jul 5, 2013 | 02:45 PM
  #32856  
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Originally Posted by DieselD
It happens, throw a dab of grease on it.
Will do thanks, didn't even think of putting some grease on it.
Old Jul 5, 2013 | 02:56 PM
  #32857  
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From: Bentonville, AR
Year: 1990
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Engine: I6 4.0
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Originally Posted by Call-_me-Jordan
Whats Cheapest bed liner you would recommend using? Also don't want it to stain to bad.
Depends on what you wanna use it for. I use spray on Rustoluem, $8 a can at Walmart. Look around for sales on roll on bedliner. Everyone has there own favorite. I like MonsterLiner for floors. But use spray on Rustoluem on plastic and body lines.
Old Jul 5, 2013 | 03:03 PM
  #32858  
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Year: 2001
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Originally Posted by rmoore1031
Depends on what you wanna use it for. I use spray on Rustoluem, $8 a can at Walmart. Look around for sales on roll on bedliner. Everyone has there own favorite. I like MonsterLiner for floors. But use spray on Rustoluem on plastic and body lines.
I'm doing the interior. How many spray cans should I get? Where's the monster stuff sold at?
Old Jul 5, 2013 | 03:26 PM
  #32859  
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I have no question to submit today but I do have an apology to submit. To all of you who read my post of me acting like a JERK especially Lowrange and Odgreen Im sorry! I know you guys read a lot of the same questions from some of us over and over and I can see where that would be annoying ! I will from now on do a little research before I post a question. In short I'm sorry and I can honestly tell you it won't happen again. Thanks to all of you for your help so far in helping me with my " almost done 89 XJ project " Have fun wheelin this weekend! Thanks again, Ron

Last edited by unionfitter; Jul 5, 2013 at 10:39 PM.
Old Jul 5, 2013 | 03:44 PM
  #32860  
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Originally Posted by Call-_me-Jordan
I'm doing the interior. How many spray cans should I get? Where's the monster stuff sold at?
Interior trim? I'd get 3 or 4 cans, sometimes you don't get a full can of use. Also will be able to do multiple coats. MonsterLiner is usually sold at auto part stores, Lowes, Home Depot. Shop around for a good deal.
Old Jul 5, 2013 | 05:56 PM
  #32861  
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Big rigs have been using motor oil for years in their trannies.
I've been working on them since 98 and this is the first I've heard of using engine oil in the tranny. Engine oil for power steering fluid, yes.
Old Jul 5, 2013 | 05:57 PM
  #32862  
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Might not even need to do that. and you can use the HO head if you want.


Cruiser’s HO into Renix Swap
This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block.
The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily.
Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1999 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender.
You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical.
You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications.
The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16” square drive or a modified 3/8” drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine.
As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case.

Revised 03/28/13
thanks, he's getting the donor tonight.
Old Jul 5, 2013 | 06:59 PM
  #32863  
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Year: 1990
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Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by theyammieguy
I've been working on them since 98 and this is the first I've heard of using engine oil in the tranny. Engine oil for power steering fluid, yes.
50 weight motor oil in some of the Fullers. And I've been working on them since 92.
Old Jul 5, 2013 | 07:00 PM
  #32864  
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Originally Posted by theyammieguy
thanks, he's getting the donor tonight.
Cool. It's really easy. Treat it as a longblock swap.
Old Jul 5, 2013 | 07:02 PM
  #32865  
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Year: 1996
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Cool. It's really easy. Treat it as a longblock swap.
Will do. I pretty much get anything I want off this donor XJ in return for doing the swap. Too bad mines a 96 and none of the dash parts are the same.



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