Oh all those wires are toast except the amp wire, i'm not even sure how they're still working. They're all melted together into one big blob. Hell it got so hot the bolt and nut threads even melded themselves together.. Me and my buddy together couldnt get that **** off. I'll get out the Fluke when I get home and start checking on it.

 

First thing I'd do is isolate all that before it causes more issues.

 

Anyone have experience with Firestone Wild Countrys

 

Had to get a new hack saw blade. Couldnt get the sawzall in there to cut the bolt in half. Scares me driving it with that melted mess in there. If it wasnt for that aluminum heat shield it would have probably caught the underhood insulation on fire.

 

Today's lesson brought to you by the word "fuse"

 

I thought that was the whole point of a box like that? Lol. I dunno much about electrical.

 

So my driverside turnsignal is currently doing the fast blink. I checked the bulbs and front and rear are lighting up. My dash signal is staying lit. Whats the deal?

 

Do I need to use any special o rings on the a/c system of an 88 4.0 Xj? I found my leak at the adapter right off the compressor on the low pressure side.n

 

Hey guys, I'm sure this question has been beat to death, but it's a pain in the butt to search from my phone.

I have a friend with an 88 XJ with a bad lower end. Will any year short block work? Or does he need specific years?

We will probably be swapping engines in my driveway, so this needs to be a direct swap.

 

Yes. Those specified for AC systems. Using R-134a? Get the green ones.

 

Put this in your SmartPhone and smoke it:





Cruiser’s HO into Renix Swap

This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block.

The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily.

Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1999 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender.

You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical.

You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications.

The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16" square drive or a modified 3/8" drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine.

As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case.

　

Revised 03/28/13

　

 

All I needed to know. I appreciate it, and your tips on the Renix. I've read them several times.

 

Any questions or concerns during the swap, let me know.

 

I will, thanks.

 

Possible ground issue. Check sockets and wiring maybe