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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 05:02 PM
  #28876  
94XjSport94's Avatar
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Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Carrollton, GA
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
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No lol plastic injection molding kayak...
Old Apr 16, 2013 | 07:25 PM
  #28877  
Lowrange2's Avatar
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From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
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K, I was about to say. I don't think a fiber glass kayak would be very durable. Not in the stuff I paddle, anyway.
Old Apr 16, 2013 | 07:36 PM
  #28878  
sycoglitch's Avatar
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
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Hey guys question, someone with the Haynes, still need to replace mine after the flood, does anyone know the size and thread count of the bolt that holds the vss to the adapter at the TC. Thanks
Old Apr 16, 2013 | 08:15 PM
  #28879  
BumsModified98xj's Avatar
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From: chi-town il
Year: 98
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Has anyone bought a tunner for there xj? Ive done a lot of searching but they only seem to make em for 99+
Old Apr 16, 2013 | 08:21 PM
  #28880  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by BumsModified98xj
Has anyone bought a tunner for there xj? Ive done a lot of searching but they only seem to make em for 99+
Don't waste your money. The PCM self-corrects and makes tuners a waste of money.
Old Apr 16, 2013 | 08:22 PM
  #28881  
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From: Summerville, Ga
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5 4 cyl.
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Originally Posted by BumsModified98xj
Has anyone bought a tunner for there xj? Ive done a lot of searching but they only seem to make em for 99+
No. Programmers dont work on our jeeps.
Old Apr 16, 2013 | 08:28 PM
  #28882  
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From: Longwood, Florida
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6cyl.
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Originally Posted by lunablue
Hey Everyone,

Ok, so I have been trying to fix a stupid coolant leak for the past week and have come to the conclusion that I just need to replace the radiator. I'm a little nervous trying to attempt this myself. I've watched a lot of videos online, and read up on it and it seems doable... my biggest worries, other than disconnecting the trans cooling lines, are the fans and the water pump pulley... Some tutorials say I have to remove the fans, some say not. Some say I have to loosed the water pulley, some not. If I don't have to bother with either of those things, I am going out there today and getting this done. Anyone change the rad on a 2000 Ltd. 6cyl. 4.0L? Advice?

Update:
Finally got the new rad in, reconnected everything... no leaks (YAY!) I turned the car on, let it run for a few minutes, drove it up and down the block 2x and then let it sit and idle until it warmed up. Waited til the fan kicked on, let it run for about 2 minutes more and the temp. gauge was still creeping up. (still no leaks). I shut it off and I could hear bubbling and gurgling from the front of the car... sounded loudest near the thermostat. No boiling or loss of fluid from the reservoir.. Top hose was hot and bottom was cool...
Any ideas? Could it be air still left in the system? Water pump? (no leaks or squealing) gonna look at it again tomorrow, let it run.... Fear of this 0331 head is giving me a complex! LOL...
Old Apr 16, 2013 | 08:33 PM
  #28883  
NewKindOfClown's Avatar
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by lunablue

Update:
Finally got the new rad in, reconnected everything... no leaks (YAY!) I turned the car on, let it run for a few minutes, drove it up and down the block 2x and then let it sit and idle until it warmed up. Waited til the fan kicked on, let it run for about 2 minutes more and the temp. gauge was still creeping up. (still no leaks). I shut it off and I could hear bubbling and gurgling from the front of the car... sounded loudest near the thermostat. No boiling or loss of fluid from the reservoir.. Top hose was hot and bottom was cool...
Any ideas? Could it be air still left in the system? Water pump? (no leaks or squealing) gonna look at it again tomorrow, let it run.... Fear of this 0331 head is giving me a complex! LOL...
Air in the system. It should work itself out over a few days. Just make sure the coolant level doesn't drop too much.
Old Apr 16, 2013 | 08:33 PM
  #28884  
BumsModified98xj's Avatar
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From: chi-town il
Year: 98
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Damn so what do ya'll recommend?
Old Apr 16, 2013 | 08:34 PM
  #28885  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by BumsModified98xj
Damn so what do ya'll recommend?
What are you trying to accomplish?
Old Apr 16, 2013 | 08:34 PM
  #28886  
sycoglitch's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 12,692
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
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Originally Posted by BumsModified98xj
Damn so what do ya'll recommend?
Recommend for what. What is it you're trying to accomplish, more power
Old Apr 16, 2013 | 08:38 PM
  #28887  
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch
Hey guys question, someone with the Haynes, still need to replace mine after the flood, does anyone know the size and thread count of the bolt that holds the vss to the adapter at the TC. Thanks
Found it. 5/16-18x3/4. Should have some in my work van. Can now finally change my vss and stop this damn leak
Old Apr 16, 2013 | 08:42 PM
  #28888  
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From: Longwood, Florida
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6cyl.
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Air in the system. It should work itself out over a few days. Just make sure the coolant level doesn't drop too much.
Thanks..That's what I'm hoping! I checked it after the first time I ran it and it took a little more fluid. Will check it again tomorrow... Should I have the heat on full blast the whole time I am running it? I had it on for a little while tonight, then wondered if I was a dummy for not having it on from the start...
Old Apr 16, 2013 | 08:46 PM
  #28889  
sycoglitch's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 12,692
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
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Originally Posted by lunablue

Thanks..That's what I'm hoping! I checked it after the first time I ran it and it took a little more fluid. Will check it again tomorrow... Should I have the heat on full blast the whole time I am running it? I had it on for a little while tonight, then wondered if I was a dummy for not having it on from the start...
When you filled it, you didn't have the heat on? Yea the thermostat needs to open so you can fill it completely. How old is your radiator cap cause yea in newer models it should burp itself
Old Apr 16, 2013 | 09:25 PM
  #28890  
avision's Avatar
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Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 181
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From: Phoenix, AZ
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0HO
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Okay guys so I am close to being "done" with my build. I still have some vibes that I will like to get rid of if possible. This last weekend I installed 3" Pro Comp Coils, 1.5" Spacers (1.75" but I took out the factory isolators like a dumb ***), extended sway bar links, RC Shackle Relocation Brackets, JKS Adjustable Tracbar and MOOG ZJ steering setup. I have 1" JKS Shackles on Crown HD Leafs with 2* Shims installed. I also have 1" Bombproof Motor Mounts, so I figure the front has just over 4.5" suspension lift(still lower than the rear dammit) plus however much having the lift mounts adds to things. I have a pair of Warrior 4* shims sitting in the garage if I need them and I was thinking about this as well;http://www.rustysoffroad.com/rustys-...er-1-drop.html

I can feel the vibes pretty much all the time, but it really only makes me uncomfortable between ~55-70MPH. 2wd. Thoughts, suggestions?



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