Considering a scan tool for the Jeep. ELM327 looks awesome but i have an iPhone through work so Torque is not an option. DashGauge is $50, and Dynolicious looks... useless.

I'm looking at this doohickey: http://www.autel.us/Products/al419.htm

Anyone ever encountered one before?

 

Are there any junkyard axle upgrades? Im gonna be looking for a rear dana 44 but im curious what to do about the front.

 

Dana 30 is strong if you upgrade it.

 

Any front axle you can find there assuming you have the fab skills...

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/bu...pgrades-84020/

 

So i guess a super 30 it is then lol. Someday i want to be running around 36s or 37s without having to run fullsize axles.

 

Bleepin jeep on YouTube runs 37s on his with a locker

 

This is the drip Puddle after an hour drive with the Defrost/floor setting, temp set at the 2 O'clock position.

 

Alrighty i have a plan then lol. I finally trimmed my front fenders and now my 33s look alot smaller just gotta wait til i can afford new axles and a regear to get some real big boy tires.

 

So, I took a very long road trip back to college (about 600 miles) and my 96 Cherokee 4.0 had no issues. I park, get home, and leave my Jeep in the lot as usual. The next day I go out to drive to class and it won't start.
When I turn the ignition, I hear no noise - no crank, no hum, no click. It's as if my Jeep was a plastic child's toy.
I asked around, everyone pointed to the battery - only a year old, and the only corrosion on the terminals were from the previous owner's lack of battery knowledge, as he let it explode. Mostly cleaned by now, so I figure that's not the issue.
So I used a jump kit. The second it touched my terminals, the light under the hood clicked on, so I turned my ignition it and my voltage meter jumped straight to 14. I ran it for about 30 minutes just to be sure, turned the car off, and right back on to check. The Jeep whirred to life like it never had issues.
Next day, I go to turn it on. Same deal as before. Nothing.

Because my battery is charged, my car starts fine with a jump, and I'd have known if the alternator went out since I'd have been driving, I went ahead and bought new battery cables/terminals to determine that it's just a problem with the ancient, corroded ones.
I've grounded the negative to the fender and the engine block (not connected to the battery yet, don't worry! :b ) and I'm in the process of disconnecting the positive from the vehicle, but I've run into a problem. I've disconnected it from the starter, but it seems to be bolted to the engine block as well. I'd love to just unscrew the damn thing but I CAN'T REACH IT. With a ratchet, pliers, anything. I'd rather not uninstall half of my Jeep in order to reach it, either.
Have a solution to reaching it easily?
I'd also like to know if replacing the battery cables/terminals is what I should be doing.

Thank you! (:

 

Im replacing the distributor mounting gasket on my 1990 xj I6. My question is do I need to bring the engine to tdc when replacing the dizzy or am I fine as long as I dont turn anything when dizzy is out?

 

When mine just did nothing it ended up being the starter AND the battery. I had to replace my whole harness a couple of years later, so I wouldn't say you are headed in the wrong direction.

 

Okay so went ahead and did this now the jeep won't start, no spark. Didn't turn anything when the distributor was out and put it back in the exact way it came out, my marks all lined up. Where should I start?

 

Ignition coil, cps,battery connected.

 

Radiator cap was just replace 2 weeks ago...
Will run the car today with the heat on from the beginning... ::head smack::

 

How much antifreeze did you put in before topping off with distilled water anyways