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Old Mar 23, 2013 | 05:33 PM
  #26971  
straightsixjeep's Avatar
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From: ks
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch
How can you tell if the double cardon joint or if it is just the u joints
You can always start with the u-joints. If you replace them all and your still getting noise or a vibration, you just have to remove the end u-joint to get at the centering ball. I just replaced the u-joints in my front shaft and also replaced the centering ball assembly. They are about $60 online, I bought mine local for $80. They sell a rebuild kit for around $40. More than likely you will need a new dust boot which cost around $8. The factory non-greasable centering ball assembly uses the rubber dust boot. They also sell a greasable centering ball assembly that uses a different seal.
(I havnt snapped any pics of my driveshafts yet, I found out my 3 month old rear ds u-joints are bad so I just picked up new ones to replace them. If I still get that weird noise after the u-joints Il crawl under for pictures.)
Old Mar 23, 2013 | 06:22 PM
  #26972  
sycoglitch's Avatar
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
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Originally Posted by straightsixjeep

You can always start with the u-joints. If you replace them all and your still getting noise or a vibration, you just have to remove the end u-joint to get at the centering ball. I just replaced the u-joints in my front shaft and also replaced the centering ball assembly. They are about $60 online, I bought mine local for $80. They sell a rebuild kit for around $40. More than likely you will need a new dust boot which cost around $8. The factory non-greasable centering ball assembly uses the rubber dust boot. They also sell a greasable centering ball assembly that uses a different seal.
(I havnt snapped any pics of my driveshafts yet, I found out my 3 month old rear ds u-joints are bad so I just picked up new ones to replace them. If I still get that weird noise after the u-joints Il crawl under for pictures.)
I have the items in the cart for quadretec since free shipping but debating if I want to spend the extra a money. Want to get it done one time. Ill maybe drop the dS tomorrow and feel it out. Idk, jut looking for the easy answer lol.

I'm probably getting spicer u joint but anyone have experience with other u joint. Duralast, precision, etc. can't find spicer locally.

Last edited by sycoglitch; Mar 23, 2013 at 06:45 PM.
Old Mar 23, 2013 | 07:04 PM
  #26973  
Number2's Avatar
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Model: Cherokee
Default ECU removal

1989 4.0 Renix. Does anyone have a tip on removing the top bolt on the ECU? I just can't see how.
Thanks, Steve
Old Mar 23, 2013 | 07:08 PM
  #26974  
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From: Asheboro, NC
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Why does my brake and ABS lights both stay on when the key isnt even in? 98 XJ. They arent bright. Really dim. But they are still on and believe it or not my battery is slowly draining becaus of it.

Also, when the Jeep is running the ABS light is on. How do I fix whatever is wrong and get this stupid light off?!
Old Mar 23, 2013 | 07:26 PM
  #26975  
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From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
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Sounds like you have electrical grimlins. I'd suspect the ignition switch.
Old Mar 23, 2013 | 07:32 PM
  #26976  
cruiser54's Avatar
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by lowrange2
Sounds like you have electrical grimlins. I'd suspect the ignition switch.
Can you post up a photo of the gremlins?
Old Mar 23, 2013 | 07:33 PM
  #26977  
salad's Avatar
Herp Derp Jerp
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Slim chance since "fuel damper" only yielded 4 results on here and it was in the GC section, but does anybody here know if there is an appreciable difference between with and without? My 1999 FSM says that there's a fuel damper on the 2.5L and none of the 4.0. 2000 FSM says there IS one on the 4.0 fuel rail. I'm assuming mine was simply built with one anyway (built in 1998 though). My new one is bare. I'm not concerned but would it be actually worth it getting one with the fuel damper?
Old Mar 23, 2013 | 07:37 PM
  #26978  
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From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Can you post up a photo of the gremlins?
Old Mar 23, 2013 | 07:39 PM
  #26979  
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
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Originally Posted by lowrange2
Thanks. I'd never seen one before.

Ever work on British cars?
Old Mar 23, 2013 | 07:40 PM
  #26980  
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From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Thanks. I'd never seen one before.

Ever work on British cars?
Unfortunately.
Old Mar 23, 2013 | 07:42 PM
  #26981  
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
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Originally Posted by lowrange2
Unfortunately.
You'll appreciate this then:
Attached Images  
Old Mar 23, 2013 | 07:45 PM
  #26982  
salad's Avatar
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
You'll appreciate this then:
That's not British-specific! It is well known that electronics work on smoke. Once you let it out, they fail to operate properly.

<-- expert on this subject
Old Mar 23, 2013 | 07:51 PM
  #26983  
ccooper1234's Avatar
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From: South Mills, NC
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Rebuilt 4.0L I6
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How much bedliner do I need to coat the whole floor? I will be getting a gallon of monstaliner and want to know how much I will have left.
Old Mar 23, 2013 | 07:52 PM
  #26984  
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From: Springfield Virginia
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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I went off roading today and a few times while I was going down a hill or up my check gauges light came on and my oil pressure was at 0. It would usually just go back to normal but still a little low, about 20 psi.

Is this something to worry about or could it have just been the angle mesding with the sensor?
Old Mar 23, 2013 | 07:53 PM
  #26985  
salad's Avatar
Herp Derp Jerp
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
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How much of an angle? You full on oil?



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