Sep 21, 2015, 03:49 PM
Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
Browse all: General Overview
- Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ 1999 to 2004 Crash Test and Safety Ratings
Important Information to help you understand your Jeep Grand Cherokee.
Browse all: General Overview
XJ Ask the Question Thread
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 14,553
Likes: 1
From: Carrollton, GA
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 674
Likes: 0
From: SouthEast PA
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Bring it to the store.... Won't the pistons travel to far without the shoes on and be pressed right out? I'm thinking that it would have some sort of undesirable effect but what would I know. Just my 1/4 sense.
Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 242
Likes: 1
From: Spokane WA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: ERH 4.0L Power Tech I-6 (HO)
That picture was from the first time. I fixed it. What do you mean push in? What way? Like how I have it in this pic? Then do the rest of the procedure? I don't know why I messed with it. It was perfect.ah I think I got it. But I can't hold the sliding piece in? Once I pull the throttle it yanks the black piece back out
NOW start to pull the throttle body lever and lift your thumb off the sliding conduit a little (keep "just enough" pressure) ...the lever will pull pretty far back (to about the 5-6 o'clock position) ...and when the lever is back as far as it will go - the conduit will be out, too - and only then take your index finger off the release button. NOW release the throttle body lever.
At this point you won't be touching the thing at all.
And your conduit will be in the out and locked position (as it is pictured here ...its the shiny black piece with the yellow-ish button the cable goes through):
Now - touching nothing else - give the throttle body lever another pull (it won't go as far this time), and you will hear the (soft) click of the ratcheting mechanism (or not, sometimes it's not much, and if you've futzed with it a bunch, you probably won't hear anything).
Done. Your tranny is set.
The final position of your conduit will look almost EXACTLY like the picture above. (Well, yours is a bit less hygienic lol, but whatever works for ya'.)
...time for that test drive.
Whew.
Last edited by brdavis9; Mar 13, 2013 at 07:51 PM. Reason: corrected procedure, as per phone conversation w/cherokeekid4x4
Herp Derp Jerp
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 17
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Not sure if they'll burst but it won't be that safe. Most of the hydraulic fluid will be spent pushing the pistons out before you get any action on the calipers up front. Either you'll blow everything out the back or pedal gets to the floor before you get brakes. It would be better to block flow to them for the time being.
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 15,197
Likes: 18
From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
I can tell you from experience that if you have the cylinders (and even the pads), but no drums, the cylinder WILL push the rams and seals out both sides and make a nice puddle of brake fluid.
Junior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 15,016
Likes: 11
From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
Yes, it'll make a mess. Then you'll have to bleed the system again.
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 15,197
Likes: 18
From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts