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Old Mar 23, 2013 | 07:56 PM
  #26986  
cruiser54's Avatar
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Year: 1990
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Pull the connector off the sending unit and see if there's oil in the plug/sender end.
Old Mar 23, 2013 | 07:58 PM
  #26987  
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From: South Mills, NC
Year: 1998
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Engine: Rebuilt 4.0L I6
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Pull the connector off the sending unit and see if there's oil in the plug/sender end.
My check gauges also comes on at random times. I have no clue why.
Old Mar 23, 2013 | 08:14 PM
  #26988  
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From: Springfield Virginia
Year: 1998
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Originally Posted by salad
How much of an angle? You full on oil?
Probably 30-40 degree max. It even happened once on flat ground. Right after the first time it happened I checked the oil and it was completely full
Old Mar 23, 2013 | 08:25 PM
  #26989  
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Originally Posted by ThatPurpleXJ
Probably 30-40 degree max. It even happened once on flat ground. Right after the first time it happened I checked the oil and it was completely full
Check the connector!!!
Old Mar 23, 2013 | 08:51 PM
  #26990  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54

Check the connector!!!
Lol okay I'll be able to tomorrow but wouldn't that only relate to when I'm showing 0 psi? It's completely normal now
Old Mar 23, 2013 | 09:35 PM
  #26991  
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Originally Posted by ThatPurpleXJ
Lol okay I'll be able to tomorrow but wouldn't that only relate to when I'm showing 0 psi? It's completely normal now
Why over think simple stuff that takes 22 seconds to check and verify?
Old Mar 23, 2013 | 09:46 PM
  #26992  
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From: Asheboro, NC
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by lowrange2
Sounds like you have electrical grimlins. I'd suspect the ignition switch.
I dont think its the ignition. Might be though. Any other ideas before i tear apart my steering coloum?
Old Mar 23, 2013 | 09:53 PM
  #26993  
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch
I have the items in the cart for quadretec since free shipping but debating if I want to spend the extra a money. Want to get it done one time. Ill maybe drop the dS tomorrow and feel it out. Idk, jut looking for the easy answer lol.

I'm probably getting spicer u joint but anyone have experience with other u joint. Duralast, precision, etc. can't find spicer locally.
I replaced mine because I was getting a squeeling at low speeds, either taking off from a stop or coming to a stop. It sounded similar to a belt squeel or a brake pad rubbing. I researched into it and they refer to it as "angry sparrows," which is what the centering ball assembly sounds like when its going out. If you have the $ it wouldnt hurt to pick up a new one since I hear if it goes bad on the road it can do a lot of damage. I replaced it with a spicer made centering ball assembly and the noise has gone away.

As far as u-joints, Im officially running all precision/moog parts. I used precision/moog for the front axle u-joints (replaced 2 wks ago), 3 of them for the front ds, and tonight I put 2 in my rear ds. I originally used Advance Auto's brand Brute Force u-joints which lasted a solid 5 months before they started to have a lot of play. Iv been having good luck with precision/moog so Il keep using them for now. If your looking for spicer, check with Napa. They are the only parts store near me that carries spicer.
Old Mar 23, 2013 | 10:30 PM
  #26994  
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From: Mercer County, NJ
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Originally Posted by straightsixjeep

I replaced mine because I was getting a squeeling at low speeds, either taking off from a stop or coming to a stop. It sounded similar to a belt squeel or a brake pad rubbing. I researched into it and they refer to it as "angry sparrows," which is what the centering ball assembly sounds like when its going out. If you have the $ it wouldnt hurt to pick up a new one since I hear if it goes bad on the road it can do a lot of damage. I replaced it with a spicer made centering ball assembly and the noise has gone away.

As far as u-joints, Im officially running all precision/moog parts. I used precision/moog for the front axle u-joints (replaced 2 wks ago), 3 of them for the front ds, and tonight I put 2 in my rear ds. I originally used Advance Auto's brand Brute Force u-joints which lasted a solid 5 months before they started to have a lot of play. Iv been having good luck with precision/moog so Il keep using them for now. If your looking for spicer, check with Napa. They are the only parts store near me that carries spicer.
Thanks. My napa don't carry spicer. It's all good. I'm gonna take the dS out for now until I get the parts. I've had the parts list from quadretec for a lil now with center ball. March just hasn't been goo to me bill wise. Plus I'm doin the pinion seal at the same time for the from pumpkin. I don't usually look for the cheap way, but this month took me down. Ima do it right the first time like I preach to others.
Old Mar 23, 2013 | 10:35 PM
  #26995  
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Happened again. Any ideas guys? My jeep will crank and crank but won't start. If I lay on the gas it'll start then die immedieatly. After laying on the gas for about a minute, it stayed on. Rough idle then it slowly started to get better. After driving it, it'll start back up. Has happened twice in the past 2 weeks. Can't be just a little thing lol. I have high idle when I put it in park if this has anything to do with it.. Someone suggested the IAC?
Old Mar 23, 2013 | 11:36 PM
  #26996  
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From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
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TPS
Old Mar 24, 2013 | 12:14 AM
  #26997  
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Originally Posted by dukie564
TPS
Alright ill fix it, thanks!
Old Mar 24, 2013 | 12:16 AM
  #26998  
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I was wondering what might cause a horrid knock that's present only at idle any rise of rpms and its non existent
Old Mar 24, 2013 | 12:46 AM
  #26999  
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Year: 1994
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That's what my flex plate sounded like when the bolts started backing out
Old Mar 24, 2013 | 12:47 AM
  #27000  
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Originally Posted by I Leak Oil
That's what my flex plate sounded like when the bolts started backing out
I mean it sounds like it will grenade any second at idle

Edit also does high rpms cause them to loosen up



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