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Where can i get the plastic bushings for where my clutch pedal attaches to the master cylinder plunger? 88 mj puegot

 

I don't guess I thought of that. How hard would it be to remove the transfer case, are there just bolts holding it on? The driveshaft I know cam come off easily.

 

I'm fairly confident that it is as easy or easier as installing an sye. The instructions for an sye kit actually call for the xfer case to be removed. I have never pulled one myself, but I know a bunch of people on this forum have.

 

You have to disconnect both driveshafts, the shifting linkage, all wiring, and the crossmember. Then there are 6 bolts holding it to the transmission.

Make sure you keep your transmission supported since the crossmember holds it up. If you don't you could break your engine mounts.

On a side note, if it isn't the same gear ratio, your Speedo will be way way off. All you have to do to fix it is swap the Speedo gear from your original case back onto the new one

The black thing in the picture is your Speedo, one bolt holds it on, easy to swap if you need to

 

You have installed an sye and changed an xfer case haven't you? Which is easier in your opinion?

 

I know I'm probably going to snap my Shock bolts (front and rear) with my dumb ***** so I figure I might as well buy some new bolts. This is what I have found so far. I was wondering if anybody can verify this.
And are they all the same size?

"USS 5/16 -18 1" bolts, washers, stopnuts. Buy 8 bolts and stopnuts, 4 washers. The fronts you wont need washers. If you don't break the rear top-bolts then you won't need 4 of the nuts, but its better to have them just in case. Replace all the bolts even if they don't break, it will just save you agony next time."

That was a quote from a thread I searched. If anyone has a different opinion please let me know. I can get good prices on bolts.

 

Stop nut?

 

:shrug:

I snapped both upper bolts on the driver side. One I was able to reverse drill out saving the welded nut, the other I had to use a 1/4 x 20 nut and bolt. On the passenger side I heated it all up and it came loose

 

IMHO it's easier to just try them and let them break if their gonna break, if they break knock them out and fish new ones through. It will save you time next time you change the shocks, and if they break with my 3/8 ratchet, then I really don't think they have any business holding together a suspension anyway.

 

Changing the gear oil in the 8.25 today I have 80-140 on hand but its not the tow package should be fine right?

 

that's what I use in the rear - works great.

It's a heavy service oil so it's good for an offroad rig with bigger tires also

 

Hey guys, quick question here. I've been chasing my death wobble for a good 2 weeks now. The driver side tire felt like it was hopping a bit around 40-50mph and than boom, the wobble would commence!! After replacing multiple parts (tie rod ends, trac bar bushings, upper and lower ball joints, and anything else that visually looked like it needed repair) I brought the truck to get an alignment done. The wobble disappeared and thought I had finally solved my woes......... no less than 100 miles after the alignment job, the wobble has returned. The left front tire has cocked itself in and makes a nice loud squeel when turning right.

I'm always at wits end here, after reading a bunch of DW faq's and repairing almost everything. What could be the causing the jeep to lose its alignment like this?? Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks guys

 

sounds exactly like a bad wheel hub/bearing. Since you said it squeals when turning right i'm going to guess it's the passenger side hub. I recommend Timken hubs

 

I was right! Didn't answer cause it was more of a slightly educated guess, but I was right!!!