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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 12:11 AM
  #12736  
odgreen's Avatar
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From: some small town oregon
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by cob24
It is a daily driver. Does that change any opinions?
just get what ever you wanna spend the money on...
either one will work.
and your engine aint gonna fall out.
Old Jul 13, 2012 | 12:41 AM
  #12737  
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From: Fort lewis, wa/ university place, wa
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by odgreen89on35s
just get what ever you wanna spend the money on...
either one will work.
and your engine aint gonna fall out.
The bushings are very rotted though. I was able to stick my finger all the way through to the other side on the drivers side. That can't be safe to drive on right?
Old Jul 13, 2012 | 12:45 AM
  #12738  
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From: Arlington
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 ltr
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Originally Posted by cob24
The bushings are very rotted though. I was able to stick my finger all the way through to the other side on the drivers side. That can't be safe to drive on right?
Honestly as long as they are tight your good, if one of your motor mount was actually out you would know. your whole jeep would shake and vibrate pretty bad, but if they are rotting you should replace them.
Old Jul 13, 2012 | 12:47 AM
  #12739  
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From: Fort lewis, wa/ university place, wa
Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by Bush League 96 XJ

Honestly as long as they are tight your good, if one of your motor mount was actually out you would know. your whole jeep would shake and vibrate pretty bad, but if they are rotting you should replace them.
Yeah I'm going to replace them. The mount themselves are still instant but when I start it it starts hard and I feel it throughout, same thing when i shut it down. Just worried that since I've been trying to figure out this squeak for a month now with no luck that my grace period may be up
Old Jul 13, 2012 | 12:49 AM
  #12740  
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From: some small town oregon
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by cob24

Yeah I'm going to replace them. The mount themselves are still instant but when I start it it starts hard and I feel it throughout, same thing when i shut it down. Just worried that since I've been trying to figure out this squeak for a month now with no luck that my grace period may be up
Ok so to make u feel better...
There was no rubber left in my motor mounts when I replaced them. It's not going to fall out.
Old Jul 13, 2012 | 12:50 AM
  #12741  
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From: Glendale,Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l 6Cyl
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Originally Posted by cob24

The bushings are very rotted though. I was able to stick my finger all the way through to the other side on the drivers side. That can't be safe to drive on right?
The poly ones will cause vibration because of how stiff they are. They will outlast the OEM many times but the less vibration of the two would be the rubber OEM. People say with tighter stiffer motor mounts you will get tighter power and torque to the drivetrain. I can see where they would get that due to hard acceleration the engine will shift a bit before it sends power back. The poly will allow less engine movement causing more vibes throughout the Jeep. Just my . 02
Old Jul 13, 2012 | 01:07 AM
  #12742  
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From: Fort lewis, wa/ university place, wa
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Originally Posted by odgreen89on35s

Ok so to make u feel better...
There was no rubber left in my motor mounts when I replaced them. It's not going to fall out.
That actually does make me feel better
Old Jul 13, 2012 | 01:10 AM
  #12743  
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From: Arlington
Year: 1996
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Engine: 4.0 ltr
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Originally Posted by cob24
That actually does make me feel better
lol
Old Jul 13, 2012 | 01:42 AM
  #12744  
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From: Fort lewis, wa/ university place, wa
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Engine: 4.0L
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Anyone know a good brand for stock replacement mounts?
Old Jul 13, 2012 | 06:40 AM
  #12745  
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i have a 89 cherokee it will start easily and it can reeve in park or neutral but when you shift it into drive or reverse it will shut off. Also (its been doing this since i got it) you smell gas when you drive it any ideas?

Last edited by jonahdfish; Jul 13, 2012 at 06:44 AM.
Old Jul 14, 2012 | 02:30 PM
  #12746  
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From: Reidsville NC
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Can some one point me in the direction of a weldless rear cut and fold write up I don't have access to a welder
Old Jul 14, 2012 | 03:33 PM
  #12747  
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Originally Posted by waffalz22
Can some one point me in the direction of a weldless rear cut and fold write up I don't have access to a welder
Haven't seen one, but you could just substitute rivets and silicone for welding
Old Jul 14, 2012 | 03:38 PM
  #12748  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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I'd say it's the same process, but you rivet or seal instead of welding, like he said. Welding will be better and stronger, but I don't think you'd have trouble either way. Watch out for the pinch seams, though, if you aren't rewelding.
Old Jul 14, 2012 | 03:51 PM
  #12749  
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From: Pennsylvania
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
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I'm not really sure whether or not this belong in this thread but I have a problem with my headlights. Awhile back the low beams stopped working and I found a short in the plug connected to the light switch. I swapped out the plug, rewired everything and changed the fuse but they still won't work. The high beams work fine so I'm really not sure what else I could be missing? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Old Jul 14, 2012 | 03:57 PM
  #12750  
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From: Reidsville NC
Year: 1994
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Originally Posted by Kuro89

Haven't seen one, but you could just substitute rivets and silicone for welding
Mk thanks but could you guys point me to a normal good write up on rear quarter cut and fold



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