What is the metal line that goes from this hose to the center pulley for coolant?

I need to pick up another...

 

I think it's called 'water pump inlet tube' or similar. Will cost $12 -$18.
Or use a brass fitting for half the cost and longer hose. Those hoses should be replaced anyway. There is a writeup on it, somewhere..

 

How did you get that off without taking off the water pump? I'm willing to bet it won't go back in lol.

I thought about doing that. Didn't know if they had some reason for using a pipe other than speed of installation.

 

Funny thing about that... Mine had a crack at the bottom near the fitting so I just snapped it off and saved a bunch of hassle.

 

Will a 99 Grand Cherokee swap right in a 97 Grand Cherokee?
Wife's 97 doing some flakey things with battery gauge dropping to 9 when driving and has brand new battery and cables terminals are good and clean.
Have a 99 136A sitting in garage.


Thanks


Nevermind see that it doesnt

 

Head, not tip. See pic.
IIRC, the GM steering column was used thru '91. Originally the doors used the round head and the ignition was the square head. The grooves on the keys were also usually different, preventing them from sliding into the wrong lock keyway. I replaced my door locks and now have square headed keys for door and ignition.
The cylinder in the rear hatch I haven't been able to find aftermarket. Best bet is to check out a few XJ's at the JY. Check your key in the hatch locks you find there. If it will slide in all the way without fighting it, then it can be rekeyed pretty easily.
The grooves are part of the outer housing so you have to find one the key will actually slide into or it won't do any good to rekey it.

 

Is there just a gasket on a 98 XJ distributor shaft or is there also an O-ring?

 

I've never bought aftermarket wheels before for an xj

3'' lift 31x10.50s bfg at/ko tires

they rub the lowers at full turn, what are my options here for new set of wheels.

i haven't looked too intently at the backspacing/offset thread information yet. try here first for a quick answer, thanks.

 

I believe 3-3/4 back spacing is recommended for that amount of lift. I recently put a 3 inch lift on my jeep... I went with 31" bfg's, 15x8 and 3" back spacing. I didn't want the wheels/tires sticking out quite that far. Mine rubs a little when turning right, had to trim a little off the lower part of the front bumper

 

Most are 3.75-4" BS, and that's fine. Anything 3-4" will be fine, but the farther it sits out (numerically lower amounts), the more stress it will put on ball joints.

 

^^^

QFT

 

Great response thanks guys. After looking at other threads and response here I believe I have my answer. Thanks guys

 

I've had this issue with my rear driver side rear door (4 door XJ) but now it started doing it on the driver door and it's getting really annoying. Basically, when I come to unlock the door (no power locks, I unlock using my car key) I will have to lock/unlock about 3-4 times before the door gets unlocked for real. Basically the first time I will try to unlock it, the little button inside that you can push to lock the door will move, but not fully to the unlocked position. Even by doing it by hand I can't press it further, I have to unlock, try again, and after 2-3 tries it will work. I also noticed when this happens that the door handle button (or whatever you call it) will be loose when you push it. Even when the door is locked you can normally feel some type of resistance, but now it's totally loose.

Any ideas what's the best solution here? I can tolerate the rear one doing this, but for the driver door, I'd hate to have to play around everytime I want to unlock my door.

 

I have the same problem on all of my doors but I have power locks... I don't know what the problem is.

 

Generally caused by the grease on linkages getting old and thick.
I fix it by removing the door panel and wipe/regrease linkages. This always worked for me.