Originally Posted by loganzillmer

This might sound stupid, but is it possible that when clamping to boot back on after greasing the slip-yoke, that I clamped it too tight?

Originally Posted by salad

Nope. Both ends you clamp to spin.

Originally Posted by loganzillmer

Right on. Thanks. I'll check the fluids and go from there. Any thought on the rattle?

I love your HST quote by the way.

Originally Posted by 1991Jeep_Man

The hatch on my 91 XJ has never locked. It has the push button opening cylinder with the key-hole inside.. I can open and shut it all day long. Problem is that the same key I use for ignition and doors wont go into the hatch key hole to lock. I need to start locking my hatch up. Is there a separate key for the hatch? Is is possible a key broke off inside which isn't allowing my key to go more than a 1/4 inch in the key hole? Is this assembly hard to replace?

Originally Posted by loganzillmer

I will do my best to describe what I am hearing, not being mechanically inclided. There are two noises. 2001 Cherokee Limited. 215K. Most recent maintenance: Greased the slip-yoke. What I am hearing is a sort of light grinding sound. The best way I can describe it is that it sounds as if my brakes were at the beginning stages of needing replacement. Not a full-on grinding, but a sort of soft grinding or scraping. Except, it's not coming from my brakes. It's coming, it seems, from the transfer case, or at least it's echoing up through there. It does it all the time when I am driving, but because of driving noise, it's really only prominent when I am going say 25-30 and I let off the gas. If I stick my ear down by the 4WD shift lever while driving, I can hear it at any speed. Second noise: While in Drive, but at a stop, I hear a sort of knuckly rattle coming from down in the same area (it does not do this while in park). It also does this sometimes when going slow over bumbs. I have been slowly working out all of the little rattles and squeaks, so I may be paraniod about the grinding, as it does not seem to affect driveability, but it seems to be more prominant over the last couple of days. Last night, I replaced both drive indicator bulbs, and found about $5 worth of coins down there, but after pulling them out, neither sound went away. Any help is appreciated!

Originally Posted by Dirt Diver

I got the exact same problem after I installed a 3" lift. Put a 1" tc drop in and it dramatically decreased. But it still mild when I let off the gas around 40mph, and it's only intermittent. I was told it would go away once I install the sye n dc, still budgeting for that.

Originally Posted by sycoglitch

Is this a question or a thought out loud

Originally Posted by loganzillmer

My Jeep is not lifted, its completely stock. Sorry, I forgot to mention that.

Originally Posted by Dirt Diver

I got the exact same problem after I installed a 3" lift. Put a 1" tc drop in and it dramatically decreased. But it still mild when I let off the gas around 40mph, and it's only intermittent. I was told it would go away once I install the sye n dc, still budgeting for that.

Originally Posted by Dirt Diver

ThousandYardStare messaged me a while back and told me he has the same problem. He spoke to a mechanic that told him it was the u-joints. May want to look at those. I was planning to but my driveway is now under a little snow and I don't feel like laying in it.

Originally Posted by GreatPumpkin

The key for the hatch was originally the same key as the doors (round head) which was different than the ignition. If your ignition key (square head) works in your doors, they have most likely had the cylinders replaced/rekeyed. Your key most likely won't go in the hatch because the groves were different and it is still the original cylinder. The assembly is pretty easy to get to, but so far I haven't found a replacement aftermarket cylinder that can be rekeyed to match the doors. You can always pull it out and take it to a locksmith to see what they can do.