Hey i have a 00' xj 4.0l and my heater switch only works on 4 and not the other settings, its getting annouying as my jeeps heater only blows air on the highest setting, does anyone have a fix for this?

 

The fan resistor located in the bottom of the HVAC box is the most likely culprit.

 

Changed my oil and filter from a wix to a mopar and my oil pressure went up noticeably..is this too high?? It may be important to note that the oil wix filter was stuck on the assembly so well that i had to hammer part of it..then use a band wrench.

This was with the engine at around 160ish on my way to work. Usually it is pretty steady at just 40.

 

Nah I run at that all the time a little higher under heavy revs

 

Just odd seeing it higher. My jeep only has 90k on it..its been at a uniform pressure until the oil change.

 

Nice, it finally came off, huh?

 

That pressure is normal for that temp and load. Your old filter probably collapsed internally, before you impaled it with a screwdriver lol

 

It got more than a wound from a screw driver. I beat the **** out of it. I should do the same to the PO for not putting oil on the seal.

 

Yes sir

 

Good that you got home safely! Try that in a manual lol.

Pop off every connector under the hood and let them dry out with AIR. Naturally, shop air, or those duster cans. Once the water's gone reassemble everything and see how it runs. If it's still crap I suspect the TPS like others. Cruiser54 has a nice writeup of checking it with a multimeter.

It's always a good idea to perform a connector refresh, especially on a Renix with that C101 nonsense:

1. Disassemble some connection

2. Attack the pins and socket with a brass wite brush if small, if a large cable (battery, ground, etc) use sand paper. Scrub the crap off. Be careful to not rip any seals or damage the connector.

3. If the connector has pins or blades, look into the socket side and notice the receptacle. Using a dental pick you want to grab that metal and bend it towards the middle, so that it has a better grip of the pin or blade.

4. Clean out all the residues and dust with Electrical Contact Cleaner, I prefer the hexane or heptane based ones as they actually work and aren't as carcinogenic. Spray until the stuff dribbles out.

5. Let the connector dry naturally or help it along with some air.

6. Apply a very light amount of an actual conductive electric grease to the mating surfaces to improve the connection and prevent corrosion. The most noticeable place for this stuff is the buttons on top of spark plugs and the distributor, a real electrical grease will promote conductivity and lessen the welding. My favorite is SanChem NO-OX-ID but you can find products like Gardner Bender's OX-GARD and Ideal's NOALOX at Home Depot, Lowe's, etc. This list is a handy reference: http://www.k1ttt.net/technote/antiox.html

7. Apply a liberal amount of dielectric grease to the edge of the connector. If this connector has a shroud apply it around the shroud. For some connectors like the fuel injectors, the dielectric grease will lubricate the little rubber gasket and keep water out. Same for spark plug wire boots. This stuff is non-conductive and should never be used directly on a pin or socket if you can avoid it. Basically a caulking that never dries.

8. Reassemble the connector and admire your handywork.

9. Repeat until out of connectors.

Do not use WD-40 on your electrical systems. Lol

 

I am contemplating changing all brake lights, reverse lights, turn signals, and side markers to led lights, can I just buy new bulbs and plug and play so to speak or do I need to add load resistors?

 

Back up lights and brake lights should be fine with just the LEDs. Turn signals on the other hand will have to have to have resistors added or they'll blink very quick.

 

Thank you sir

 

Mine dont blink quick?

But i only have LEDs for the 194 bulbs.

 

Which ones are the 194s? Mine seem to be all 3157s?