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XJ Ask the Question Thread
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 718
Likes: 0
From: Miami,Fl
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L6 Srt
ok, i asked because maybe with the vehicle at different inclines and such, the pump might run dry and that would cause that sound.. But it shouldnt happen at that level of fuel.
Do you notice if the jeep misfires when you hear/feel the vibrations? If so then yea it might be the filter.. And this only happens on steep inclines.
Do you notice if the jeep misfires when you hear/feel the vibrations? If so then yea it might be the filter.. And this only happens on steep inclines.
Nope no Misfires or hesitating run like normal just a vibe noise. It starts after a lot of up and down inclines. Then say I get back on the road it is still doing this for awhile. I can cut the jeep off and start it back up no prob. But the vibration will stay present for a couple of mins back on level ground.
Yeah its coming from the tank. I can put my hand on the hose coming from the fuel pump and feel the vibration. It started happening about a month ago. I will prob just buy a fuel pump and filter to have as backup. Thanks
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: treestump maine
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.o
so in the past week i've done:
a hub assembly
the opposite universal joint
new tires
new water pump
new radiator hoses
thermostat
and a back yard coolant flush
after all that was done when i started her the first time she ran fine
the second and third time she hardly got going at all
now she idles like crap, and smokes on the right side of the block (looking from the front)
braking in gear (like for a turn) feels like she's stalling out
i don't even know where to start this rough idle thing,
the rumble stops the moment that theres throttle,
and the oil pressure is really low, and goes up with the throttle
i know someone knows what this problem is
and what i have to unscrew
a hub assembly
the opposite universal joint
new tires
new water pump
new radiator hoses
thermostat
and a back yard coolant flush
after all that was done when i started her the first time she ran fine
the second and third time she hardly got going at all
now she idles like crap, and smokes on the right side of the block (looking from the front)
braking in gear (like for a turn) feels like she's stalling out
i don't even know where to start this rough idle thing,
the rumble stops the moment that theres throttle,
and the oil pressure is really low, and goes up with the throttle
i know someone knows what this problem is
and what i have to unscrew
Seasoned Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 329
Likes: 0
From: Tallahassee, FL
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I'm trying to piece together my 4x4 conversion and was wondering what I should avoid when picking a front axle.. Can I go with a dana 44 or 60 without upgrading my rear axle? Does the gearing matter? (im a noob) I'm planning on keeping my stock-sized tires for a while and I never plan on having anything larger than 31s or 32s. I'm not planning on doing any wheeling. This is my dd and I will be spending some time in the woods and off road some for camping.
Last edited by BOOMroasted; Dec 1, 2010 at 09:13 AM.
so in the past week i've done:
a hub assembly
the opposite universal joint
new tires
new water pump
new radiator hoses
thermostat
and a back yard coolant flush
after all that was done when i started her the first time she ran fine
the second and third time she hardly got going at all
now she idles like crap, and smokes on the right side of the block (looking from the front)
braking in gear (like for a turn) feels like she's stalling out
t
i don't even know where to start this rough idle thing,
the rumble stops the moment that theres throttle,
and the oil pressure is really low, and goes up with the throttle
i know someone knows what this problem is
and what i have to unscrew
a hub assembly
the opposite universal joint
new tires
new water pump
new radiator hoses
thermostat
and a back yard coolant flush
after all that was done when i started her the first time she ran fine
the second and third time she hardly got going at all
now she idles like crap, and smokes on the right side of the block (looking from the front)
braking in gear (like for a turn) feels like she's stalling out
t
i don't even know where to start this rough idle thing,
the rumble stops the moment that theres throttle,
and the oil pressure is really low, and goes up with the throttle
i know someone knows what this problem is
and what i have to unscrew
sounds like it could possibly be either ur tps(throttle position sensor)
or maybe dirty injectors thats causing the poor idle. as far as the smoking... u got me there
I'm trying to piece together my 4x4 conversion and was wondering what I should avoid when picking a front axle.. Can I go with a dana 44 or 60 without upgrading my rear axle? Does the gearing matter? (im a noob) I'm planning on keeping my stock-sized tires for a while and I never plan on having anything larger than 31s or 32s. I'm not planning on doing any wheeling. This is my dd and I will be spending some time in the woods and off road some for camping.
if u dont plan on running larger than a 32 nor do u intend to wheel it hard, you have NO need for a d60 front. its gonna cost u a good bit anyway for a front 60. i would say grab a 44 or maybe just get a cheap d30 and dress it up good. u definatly need to makr sure the gear ratios in the rear match thay of the front, but for the tire u plan on using, anything 3.27 or higher would b just fine. for a DD, i wouldnt gear above 4.10
Hello all, I'm an amateur jeep enthusiast with a 1996 Cherokee, 4.0L In-line 6 with part time 4WD.
Here's the issue surrounding my question.
My jeep has 142K miles on it, just replaced exhaust (that rusted out horribly.)
Getting an alignment tomorrow.
I have a brief grinding sound as I travel I would guess around every 2-4 revolutions of my front driver-side tire. I suspect bearings due to it not being synchronous with each revolution, but I really don't know.
More distressingly, my jeep is, in effect, neutered. When I try to put it into 4WD, it doesn't give me the PART TIME light up (on my very basic dash) and I can't tell that it is four wheel or any change other than a constant ugly grinding sound when turning (while driving) just a little more than slightly either way.
I can't see anything obviously wrong with either wheel apparatus (they're both rusty, but I don't see any catastrophic rust damage, and they've been rusty for.. well since before I took ownership)
I used to novice off-road a lot and would like to do so again...and even more pressing.. would like to have my 4WD back for this winter (by lake Michigan)
I'm pretty poor and I don't know what to do.
Does anyone have any ideas?
*salute*
Livewyr7
Here's the issue surrounding my question.
My jeep has 142K miles on it, just replaced exhaust (that rusted out horribly.)
Getting an alignment tomorrow.
I have a brief grinding sound as I travel I would guess around every 2-4 revolutions of my front driver-side tire. I suspect bearings due to it not being synchronous with each revolution, but I really don't know.
More distressingly, my jeep is, in effect, neutered. When I try to put it into 4WD, it doesn't give me the PART TIME light up (on my very basic dash) and I can't tell that it is four wheel or any change other than a constant ugly grinding sound when turning (while driving) just a little more than slightly either way.
I can't see anything obviously wrong with either wheel apparatus (they're both rusty, but I don't see any catastrophic rust damage, and they've been rusty for.. well since before I took ownership)
I used to novice off-road a lot and would like to do so again...and even more pressing.. would like to have my 4WD back for this winter (by lake Michigan)
I'm pretty poor and I don't know what to do.
Does anyone have any ideas?
*salute*
Livewyr7
Hello all, I'm an amateur jeep enthusiast with a 1996 Cherokee, 4.0L In-line 6 with part time 4WD.
Here's the issue surrounding my question.
My jeep has 142K miles on it, just replaced exhaust (that rusted out horribly.)
Getting an alignment tomorrow.
I have a brief grinding sound as I travel I would guess around every 2-4 revolutions of my front driver-side tire. I suspect bearings due to it not being synchronous with each revolution, but I really don't know.
More distressingly, my jeep is, in effect, neutered. When I try to put it into 4WD, it doesn't give me the PART TIME light up (on my very basic dash) and I can't tell that it is four wheel or any change other than a constant ugly grinding sound when turning (while driving) just a little more than slightly either way.
I can't see anything obviously wrong with either wheel apparatus (they're both rusty, but I don't see any catastrophic rust damage, and they've been rusty for.. well since before I took ownership)
I used to novice off-road a lot and would like to do so again...and even more pressing.. would like to have my 4WD back for this winter (by lake Michigan)
I'm pretty poor and I don't know what to do.
Does anyone have any ideas?
*salute*
Livewyr7
Here's the issue surrounding my question.
My jeep has 142K miles on it, just replaced exhaust (that rusted out horribly.)
Getting an alignment tomorrow.
I have a brief grinding sound as I travel I would guess around every 2-4 revolutions of my front driver-side tire. I suspect bearings due to it not being synchronous with each revolution, but I really don't know.
More distressingly, my jeep is, in effect, neutered. When I try to put it into 4WD, it doesn't give me the PART TIME light up (on my very basic dash) and I can't tell that it is four wheel or any change other than a constant ugly grinding sound when turning (while driving) just a little more than slightly either way.
I can't see anything obviously wrong with either wheel apparatus (they're both rusty, but I don't see any catastrophic rust damage, and they've been rusty for.. well since before I took ownership)
I used to novice off-road a lot and would like to do so again...and even more pressing.. would like to have my 4WD back for this winter (by lake Michigan)
I'm pretty poor and I don't know what to do.
Does anyone have any ideas?
*salute*
Livewyr7
After testing my 4WD for about 75 feet, I had an interesting smell from my front-end as I was leaving my Cherokee.
☠ CF Sheriff ☠

Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 15,197
Likes: 18
From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
Hello all, I'm an amateur jeep enthusiast with a 1996 Cherokee, 4.0L In-line 6 with part time 4WD.
Here's the issue surrounding my question.
My jeep has 142K miles on it, just replaced exhaust (that rusted out horribly.)
Getting an alignment tomorrow.
I have a brief grinding sound as I travel I would guess around every 2-4 revolutions of my front driver-side tire. I suspect bearings due to it not being synchronous with each revolution, but I really don't know.
More distressingly, my jeep is, in effect, neutered. When I try to put it into 4WD, it doesn't give me the PART TIME light up (on my very basic dash) and I can't tell that it is four wheel or any change other than a constant ugly grinding sound when turning (while driving) just a little more than slightly either way.
I can't see anything obviously wrong with either wheel apparatus (they're both rusty, but I don't see any catastrophic rust damage, and they've been rusty for.. well since before I took ownership)
I used to novice off-road a lot and would like to do so again...and even more pressing.. would like to have my 4WD back for this winter (by lake Michigan)
I'm pretty poor and I don't know what to do.
Does anyone have any ideas?
*salute*
Livewyr7
Here's the issue surrounding my question.
My jeep has 142K miles on it, just replaced exhaust (that rusted out horribly.)
Getting an alignment tomorrow.
I have a brief grinding sound as I travel I would guess around every 2-4 revolutions of my front driver-side tire. I suspect bearings due to it not being synchronous with each revolution, but I really don't know.
More distressingly, my jeep is, in effect, neutered. When I try to put it into 4WD, it doesn't give me the PART TIME light up (on my very basic dash) and I can't tell that it is four wheel or any change other than a constant ugly grinding sound when turning (while driving) just a little more than slightly either way.
I can't see anything obviously wrong with either wheel apparatus (they're both rusty, but I don't see any catastrophic rust damage, and they've been rusty for.. well since before I took ownership)
I used to novice off-road a lot and would like to do so again...and even more pressing.. would like to have my 4WD back for this winter (by lake Michigan)
I'm pretty poor and I don't know what to do.
Does anyone have any ideas?
*salute*
Livewyr7
ok...few things...
1 - don't use 4x4 part time on dry pavement - it will cause major binding and popping, and can damage parts.
2 - it definitely sounds like you could have a bad wheel bearing. They aren't terrible hard to replace. Is it speed dependent? It happens whether you are in 4x4 or 2x4?
3 - i would DEFINITELY check the fluid level in the front differential - just unscrew the plug and sick your finger in. Fluid should be to the bottom of the hole.
4 - check the ujoints at each front wheel (2 total), and at each end of the front drive shaft (3 total) by rotating it back and forth (or trying to). There should be absolutely no movement in the joint (you should not be able to grab the two sections and turn them in opposite directions).
5 - the part time light not working is caused by a faulty position sensor. They are easy to replace, but it will not cause your 4x4 to not work - it's only purpose is to make the light light up when in 4x4.
Have the guy at the alignment shop check the ujoints and bearings for you while he's working on it, as well as all the steering linkage joints.
Last edited by dukie564; Dec 1, 2010 at 08:03 PM.
ok...few things...
1 - don't use 4x4 part time on dry pavement - it will cause major binding and popping, and can damage parts.
2 - it definitely sounds like you could have a bad wheel bearing. They aren't terrible hard to replace. Is it speed dependent? It happens whether you are in 4x4 or 2x4?
3 - i would DEFINITELY check the fluid level in the front differential - just unscrew the plug and sick your finger in. Fluid should be to the bottom of the hole.
4 - check the ujoints at each front wheel (2 total), and at each end of the front drive shaft (3 total) by rotating it back and forth (or trying to). There should be absolutely no movement in the joint (you should not be able to grab the two sections and turn them in opposite directions).
5 - the part time light not working is caused by a faulty position sensor. They are easy to replace, but it will not cause your 4x4 to not work - it's only purpose is to make the light light up when in 4x4.
Have the guy at the alignment shop check the ujoints and bearings for you while he's working on it, as well as all the steering linkage joints.
1 - don't use 4x4 part time on dry pavement - it will cause major binding and popping, and can damage parts.
2 - it definitely sounds like you could have a bad wheel bearing. They aren't terrible hard to replace. Is it speed dependent? It happens whether you are in 4x4 or 2x4?
3 - i would DEFINITELY check the fluid level in the front differential - just unscrew the plug and sick your finger in. Fluid should be to the bottom of the hole.
4 - check the ujoints at each front wheel (2 total), and at each end of the front drive shaft (3 total) by rotating it back and forth (or trying to). There should be absolutely no movement in the joint (you should not be able to grab the two sections and turn them in opposite directions).
5 - the part time light not working is caused by a faulty position sensor. They are easy to replace, but it will not cause your 4x4 to not work - it's only purpose is to make the light light up when in 4x4.
Have the guy at the alignment shop check the ujoints and bearings for you while he's working on it, as well as all the steering linkage joints.
Responses:
1- I don't usually (today was very brief usage to determine if if it worked after a long period of non usage)
2- I suspect wheel bearings as well, but advice from various mechanics suggest that they usually give a telltale whine or even a howl, some constant noise when they're going.
3- Just checked fluid levels of all three differential, front was over full, mid was practically empty, rear was fine. (filled mid differential for $6, but the issue remains)
4- Did minor checks on the hardware when we did the Transfer Case fluids this evening, possible issue with drivers side knuckle/u-joint section, will determine tomorrow. (Tomorrow is front end diagnostic and wheel alignment)
5- Sensor works occasionally, not really concerned with that as much as you said

I will update you tomorrow as to the results and findings (thank you very much for your wisdom)
-Livewyr7




