Quick question. I was tryin to do my TC, got the fill plug out with no problem but the drain plug is gunked in there and is close to rounding out. Can I use wd40 to try and slack it? I got a np231

 

Yes try some WD40 PB blaster or any type of penetrating lube. Also try and tap it a little with a hammer it sometimes helps free things up.

If you cant get it off, you can get a cheap suction pump from most parts store for around $10-15 bucks and just suck the fluid out.

 

those pumps don't work well for suction i have found, especially with the tube pointed down.

Before you round it off go get yourself an actual 6 point socket to fit on there. Not sure of the exact size, maybe 32mm?

 

I bought a mityvac pump that works fine for suction, considering that is what it was made for, they are around 30-40 dollars depending on where you buy them, I got mine at harbor freight for 30

 

can i run 31x11.5 tires with 4 inch backspacing rims on a stock xj?

 

Not without some major trimming/cutting/folding. 235/75R15 is the max that will fit without trimming and w/o rubbing

 

2000 Cherokee XJ, 2wd. The check engin light just came on and shows a misfire code for cylinder #3. the plug looks good and is identical in color and wear to the others. I'm guessing it could be the coil or the injector. Is there a way to determine which? I'm a noobie to the site. Thanks

 

Cylinder #3 misfire on a 2000 cherokee? Sounds like heat soak to me!

Your Jeep has coil packs, there are no ignition wires to replace. The first thing i would do is replace the plugs IE: A tune up, with a fuel system service. You're doing a fuel system service because you may have a plugged/dirty injector causing the misfire. If you find that its not a maintenance item, this problem fits you cylinder #3 misfire to a T:

The intake manifold of the 2000 and 2001 Jeep Cherokees, and other Jeep vehicles with the 4.0L, was redesigned in 1999. With the redesign of the intake manifold, the fuel injector for cylinder #3 was moved too close to the exhaust manifold.

When the vehicle is driven the exhaust heats up tremendously, then when the vehicle is shut off, the temperature under the hood rises (its called a hot soak) because the cooling system is no longer running. During the hot soak, radiant heat from the exhaust manifold actually boils the fuel inside the injector, creating air bubbles. When you turn the vehicle on after the hot soak the injector is not flowing enough fuel for the cylinder to fire (because its not squirting fuel, ist squirting some fuel and a lot of air) and the cylinder misfires.

Accounts of this problem are very well documented by Jeep, and there is a Technical Service Bulletin regarding this issue. You need TSB 18-031-03, easily locatable here:

http://www.wjjeeps.com/tsb/tsb_wj_1803103.pdf

To complete the repair you need the part listed on the TSB, PN# 56028371AA. As outlined in the TSB, its actually an ignition wire heat shield that you'll be installing around the injector to insulate it from the heat of the exhaust. The installation should take 15-20 min. Its very easy to do, just follow the instructions on the TSB. The part can be picked up at a dealership for $10 or less.

 

Nevermind, I figured out how to search and found lotsa info.

 

Describes my problem exactly. Thank you for the quick response. It's my son's first car... time to teach him how to turn a wrench.

 

That's what i like to hear.

 

its a 10mm, lol even with the right key size it would round a little every time i tried

 

Finally got around to replacing my stuck open thermostat, not overcooling now and I have heat! Now my only prob that I've had for awhile and now just getting too is I don't get heat blowing through my dash vents, Only through my floor and consle duct and my defrost works fine, just not my dash vents, soo my thought is vacuum problem? Am I own the right track? Trying to get much info before I get home from and work and bear the freezing garage. Thanks

 

while coming back from atl. a grinding sound from under the hood made me pull over, so running idle no noise, then pulling on the throttle cable a grinding sound from where the trans. meets the motor comes alive. sounds like the fan rubbing up against the radiator. what the heck could this be?? at a total loss

 

Vacuum leak sounds about right. At least it sounds about like a good place to start. I never cared much for the vacuum controlled blend doors. I can hear a slight vacuum hiss coming from my heater box when I have it on defrost, but defrost works, so I'm not overly concerned- yet. And stuck thermostats must be kinda common- mine is stuck open on my 90 as well. IT'S COLD IN THERE!