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reposting to get past all of the annoying OT stuff. any input guys? i'm stumped..
so i'm having some headlight switch issues on my 96 sport. i've tried some searching but this seems to be a unique problem. basically, my headlight switch will only be in the full "on" position for a tiny portion of the plunger travel. so essentially it takes some wiggling to get all the lights on then if the switch is even barely bumped it kicks off or all the way out to where only the headlights themselves will be on. i replaced the switch with a duralast one and the problem didn't go away.
the only possible issue i see is that the switch has a connector, and the plug doesn't have a wire or clip in the hole that accepts this connector. it seems like this couldn't be the problem since there's no evidence of a missing wire. it just looks like there was never anything there to begin with. here are pics of what i'm talking about. the diagonal one in the middle on the bottom is the one in question..


any help would be great, i just want my headlights to lock in where they're supposed to and stay on
so i'm having some headlight switch issues on my 96 sport. i've tried some searching but this seems to be a unique problem. basically, my headlight switch will only be in the full "on" position for a tiny portion of the plunger travel. so essentially it takes some wiggling to get all the lights on then if the switch is even barely bumped it kicks off or all the way out to where only the headlights themselves will be on. i replaced the switch with a duralast one and the problem didn't go away.
the only possible issue i see is that the switch has a connector, and the plug doesn't have a wire or clip in the hole that accepts this connector. it seems like this couldn't be the problem since there's no evidence of a missing wire. it just looks like there was never anything there to begin with. here are pics of what i'm talking about. the diagonal one in the middle on the bottom is the one in question..


any help would be great, i just want my headlights to lock in where they're supposed to and stay on
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,289
Likes: 0
From: Springfield Virginia
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
There's a video somewhere to test for a blown head gasket. Go on YouTube and look through ericthecarguy and scottykilmers videos. One of them shows you how.
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,289
Likes: 0
From: Springfield Virginia
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Heres the video I was telling you about. If you got a crack somewhere don't even try driving it. Hopefully it will just be a bad head gasket. What year do you have?
Seasoned Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 444
Likes: 0
From: CA
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Inline 6
I'm pretty sure both will have the same effect. Leaking coolant into the block destroying internals. Either one you're not going to want to drive the jeep or you'll soon need a new engine.
There's a video somewhere to test for a blown head gasket. Go on YouTube and look through ericthecarguy and scottykilmers videos. One of them shows you how.
There's a video somewhere to test for a blown head gasket. Go on YouTube and look through ericthecarguy and scottykilmers videos. One of them shows you how.
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,289
Likes: 0
From: Springfield Virginia
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I think you should do the head gasket project, take TONS of photos, and make a killer write-up.
White Smoke (coolant/water)
----------------
1) Clogged CCV /oil seperator ?
2) Blown head gasket ?
Last edited by BimmerJeeper; Nov 25, 2012 at 03:42 PM.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 444
Likes: 0
From: CA
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Inline 6
Newbie
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Vancouver Washington
Year: 1994
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2
Hi: Looking for anyone who has removed the 5.2 without the transmission. The top bell housing bolts look to be difficult. Anyone have experience here? Any tricks like remove the engine mounts and while on the hoist lower to get better access to the area? This is a single man op here. This jeep is now a re-tread, and will be around 20 more years. If we still have gas then. Anyway, Thanks in advance...
Seasoned Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 444
Likes: 0
From: CA
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Inline 6
Hi: Looking for anyone who has removed the 5.2 without the transmission. The top bell housing bolts look to be difficult. Anyone have experience here? Any tricks like remove the engine mounts and while on the hoist lower to get better access to the area? This is a single man op here. This jeep is now a re-tread, and will be around 20 more years. If we still have gas then. Anyway, Thanks in advance...
Seasoned Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 444
Likes: 0
From: CA
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Inline 6
Moderator of Jeeps
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 3
From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Originally Posted by DieselD
Why do they even make a three piece?
^Not a real answer.




