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Old Nov 25, 2012 | 02:03 PM
  #17206  
mitchlikesbikes's Avatar
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reposting to get past all of the annoying OT stuff. any input guys? i'm stumped..

so i'm having some headlight switch issues on my 96 sport. i've tried some searching but this seems to be a unique problem. basically, my headlight switch will only be in the full "on" position for a tiny portion of the plunger travel. so essentially it takes some wiggling to get all the lights on then if the switch is even barely bumped it kicks off or all the way out to where only the headlights themselves will be on. i replaced the switch with a duralast one and the problem didn't go away.

the only possible issue i see is that the switch has a connector, and the plug doesn't have a wire or clip in the hole that accepts this connector. it seems like this couldn't be the problem since there's no evidence of a missing wire. it just looks like there was never anything there to begin with. here are pics of what i'm talking about. the diagonal one in the middle on the bottom is the one in question..






any help would be great, i just want my headlights to lock in where they're supposed to and stay on
Old Nov 25, 2012 | 02:12 PM
  #17207  
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From: Springfield Virginia
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by zombie jeep101
Is there a way to know if the head gasket is bad versus a cracked head? Before I tear it apart
I'm pretty sure both will have the same effect. Leaking coolant into the block destroying internals. Either one you're not going to want to drive the jeep or you'll soon need a new engine.

There's a video somewhere to test for a blown head gasket. Go on YouTube and look through ericthecarguy and scottykilmers videos. One of them shows you how.
Old Nov 25, 2012 | 02:21 PM
  #17208  
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Heres the video I was telling you about. If you got a crack somewhere don't even try driving it. Hopefully it will just be a bad head gasket. What year do you have?

Old Nov 25, 2012 | 03:10 PM
  #17209  
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Year: 1990
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Originally Posted by ThatPurpleXJ
I'm pretty sure both will have the same effect. Leaking coolant into the block destroying internals. Either one you're not going to want to drive the jeep or you'll soon need a new engine.

There's a video somewhere to test for a blown head gasket. Go on YouTube and look through ericthecarguy and scottykilmers videos. One of them shows you how.
Nooooooo! *grabs own face*now u have given me doubts about my piston ring issue and how i have to pull apart the top end of the motor this monday!
Old Nov 25, 2012 | 03:34 PM
  #17210  
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Originally Posted by jeeperscreepers92
Nooooooo! *grabs own face*now u have given me doubts about my piston ring issue and how i have to pull apart the top end of the motor this monday!
Ohh you're leaking too?
Old Nov 25, 2012 | 03:37 PM
  #17211  
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Year: 1998
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Engine: 4.0L i6
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Originally Posted by zombie jeep101
. A lot of White smoke comes from the tail pipe when run but sometimes no smoke comes out. Also when driving it when I stop sometimes it will die and have a hard time starting again. Help please!
zombie jeep101,
I think you should do the head gasket project, take TONS of photos, and make a killer write-up.

White Smoke (coolant/water)
----------------
1) Clogged CCV /oil seperator ?
2) Blown head gasket ?

Last edited by BimmerJeeper; Nov 25, 2012 at 03:42 PM.
Old Nov 25, 2012 | 03:45 PM
  #17212  
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Originally Posted by ThatPurpleXJ
Ohh you're leaking too?
lol probly! Right now i have the Black plume o death. for all i might have another leak somewhere.
Old Nov 25, 2012 | 04:08 PM
  #17213  
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Year: 1994
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2
Default 94 5.2L engine removal

Hi: Looking for anyone who has removed the 5.2 without the transmission. The top bell housing bolts look to be difficult. Anyone have experience here? Any tricks like remove the engine mounts and while on the hoist lower to get better access to the area? This is a single man op here. This jeep is now a re-tread, and will be around 20 more years. If we still have gas then. Anyway, Thanks in advance...
Old Nov 25, 2012 | 04:08 PM
  #17214  
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Year: 1989
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Which oil pan gasket should I get, the felpro one piece or the felpro three piece?
Old Nov 25, 2012 | 04:11 PM
  #17215  
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From: Carrollton, GA
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
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Originally Posted by my89xj
Which oil pan gasket should I get, the felpro one piece or the felpro three piece?
One piece
Old Nov 25, 2012 | 04:12 PM
  #17216  
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Originally Posted by 94XjSport94

One piece
Alright thanks, and I'm getting the felpro rms

Last edited by my89xj; Nov 25, 2012 at 04:21 PM.
Old Nov 25, 2012 | 04:28 PM
  #17217  
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Originally Posted by abqdave
Hi: Looking for anyone who has removed the 5.2 without the transmission. The top bell housing bolts look to be difficult. Anyone have experience here? Any tricks like remove the engine mounts and while on the hoist lower to get better access to the area? This is a single man op here. This jeep is now a re-tread, and will be around 20 more years. If we still have gas then. Anyway, Thanks in advance...
holy crud a WJ owner. thats a first to see in this thread
Old Nov 25, 2012 | 04:30 PM
  #17218  
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Originally Posted by 94XjSport94
One piece
Originally Posted by my89xj
Which oil pan gasket should I get, the felpro one piece or the felpro three piece?
one piece in general is better . its easier to install and lasts longer
Old Nov 25, 2012 | 04:32 PM
  #17219  
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Originally Posted by jeeperscreepers92

one piece in general is better . its easier to install and lasts longer
Why do they even make a three piece?
Old Nov 25, 2012 | 04:32 PM
  #17220  
NewKindOfClown's Avatar
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by DieselD

Why do they even make a three piece?
So you can ask why. If someone actually orders one, they just cut the 1-piece apart.

^Not a real answer.

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