Best paint for painting coils and diff cover?

 

I used just regular krylon, 3-4 coats have held up great over 3 years . Just make sure diff cover is really clean. Some of my paint wore thin around the fill plugs

 

We use a lot of Rustoleum over here. Either one should work just fine, and you can always do touch ups when it scratches.

 

Sand with 220 or no?

 

On my diff covers I just wire wheeled em til they were shiny. Primer, then hi-temp paint. I just used hi-temp because its the only red I had.

 

AC evaporator and condesor flushed and vacuumed on my 2000 jeep xj completed.
Have new accumulator, lines & hoses with new gaskets & springs to install. I don.t.want to leave the system open, so before I put together I could use some help.

Called 4 seasons compressor and tech guy said to put 6 ounces of pag 100 in compressor.

Questions:
1) compressor has 2 ports on top. Which port does the pag oil go in? Does it matter? Or both ports, (holes).
2) Two holes on top of accimulator/drier. Does any pag oil need to go in? How much and which hole?

Thanks guys

 

Best way to clean 23 years of leaking oil and dirt off the axle? Plus how in the WORLD do I get the pit arm (I think that's what it is, thing that connects to the idle arm that connects to steering box) off?!?? Got the bottom off and it's just hanging there because I don't have enough room to hammer the threaded part out. Please help!

 

pittman arm puller at auto store

 

Can I rent that? I don't wana buy another tool I'll use once in my life

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/tie-rod...ller-1752.html

they are cheap and you will most likely need it again if you work on your own rides

 

97 xj sport with 130k miles on it is giving me tons of problems when trying to start. Starter will crank but engine will not run unless I give it gas. I have to keep my foot on the gas pedal for ~1 minute before I can take it off and it will idle, if I take my foot off too soon it will die. Whats wrong with my Jeep?

 

Generally one of two issues causes this: engine computer isn't able to set idle properly until warming up for a bit, or there's a drag on the engine from (normally) the alternator.

The first one can often be found to a gummed up Idle Air Controller. Take off the tube running between your intake manifold and the air filter and clean the throttle body. You may actually need to take the IAC off the side of it and gently clean it out with a soft toothbrush and throttle body cleaner. Oil vapour from the CCV system and other fun goo gets in there over time and can cause it to not allow enough air to flow in to maintain idle.

The second can be caused by a marginal battery or poor wiring. Yes your battery can be in a chemical state that it can start the engine but not keep it running. Metal expands as it warms, so remember cables and connectors are metallic. In the case of a poor battery the load on the alternator is so high (to charge it) that it literally stops the engine with so much drag. Had this happen once after I accidentally left the dome lights on all night in the winter. You should be able to roll up to most parts stores and take the battery in to be load tested to see if it's any good.

 

I've been looking for tail light guards for my 96 Sport for about a year now. Does anyone have any recommendations? I've checked tuffrigs but they keep pushing back their production dates for them.

 

I got it off, had to turn the wheel to get an angle. Thanks though

 

Checked my throttle body, looked pretty clean except a little buildup just past the butterfly valve, but got it cleaned up. I load tested my battery and it came back with 435 CCA, and it is rated at 490. I put it on the charger and we'll see if that helps. Thank you for your response!