So I am thinking buying the gallon of PB Blaster was not a total waste. I get a metal can out of the deal and can premix the tranny fluid/acetone after I use it all up?

 

Truth. Not to say you CAN'T get em into water, but you gotta be willing to face the follow-up procedures so you don't end up with an expensive paperweight.

 

Ran some errands this afternoon. Stopped by the hardware store and advanced auto.

 

Look at you getting all fancy

 

I think it's instagram worthy, even though I don't have one of those.

 

Out of curiosity. How much did that setup cost you? I wonder how it compares to the cost of the other penetrating options

 

I bought the cheapest 1 QT ATF on the shelf for $5.39
Oiler can was $7.99
One quart of Acetone $7.48

So that will make two quarts or 64 OZ of the concoction.

Omitting the price of the oiler can and looking at the price of the solution itself that is that is roughly 20 cents an OZ.

Compared to PB blaster @ 11 OZ can for $3.76 on amazon. That is roughly 34 cents an ounce.

No one says you have to use the oiler can. You could keep it in metal can and paint it on with an acid brush. All in price could be even cheaper.

 

usually when i crank the jeep starts right away, no hesitation. recently about half of the time i come to start the jeep i get a small hesitation before it fires, almost sounds like it's going to sputter but once it cranks over it runs fine.

i'm wondering if it's worth the time of cleaning the plugs, cap and rotor to see if it helps any? last time those were changed was about 2 years ago, or 15-20k miles.

 

Clean the throttle body and IAC first.

 

noted, thanks.

 

I'd like to add 3M multipurpose lubricant to this list. Works much better than PB. Haven't used Liquid Wrench in a while, but I'd say it probably works as well as if not better than LW... definitely better than PB, that's for sure.

 

Didn't even know that 3M made one. Cheaper at the Napa believe it or not. Plus might even cost me less seeing how I work at one. I wouldn't believe the 16 oz stated in the specs though. Picture of the can says 10.5 oz like on Amazon.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/MMM08898

 

Yeah, amazon was just the first site that came up with it when I did a quick google search to give example. Should be readily available at most parts stores.

EDIT: Holy cow, 9.44?!?! I didn't even pay attention to that haha

 

Removed my inner fender well. Piece of foam fell out. Sorry for the lousy pictures. Looks like it has glue residue on one side. There is a piece still in there at the back of the front fender. Right in front of the door hinges. By the shape of the piece still in there it almost looks like the piece that fell out fits in the piece still in there. Anybody know the placement for this when I put it back together?

 

Nope not at all. The other side (86 & 86) may matter depending on the type used, but not on the 'load' side.

The electrical side shouldn't be too big of a problem, unless the previous owner cut things out. You'll want to start rummaging around beside the left (driver's side) headlight. You should find a 2-pin connector with fairly heavy wire. It's tied into the same harness that the headlights go through. You might want to remove the air cleaner to get more room to look.

The bigger concern is WHY this was done. Some people think that because the PCM doesn't turn the fan on constantly there's something wrong... of course the PCM won't turn them on until certain refrigerant pressure or 218*°F engine coolant temperature. Some people do this to deal with heat soak issues from the little catalytic converters. Be aware that you may be looking at another issue that this is covering up.


Strong possibility that your Idle Air Controller is just gummed up. Once the gum warms, the motor is able to move. Take the throttle body and IAC off and give 'em a clean: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/cleaning-tb-iac-84496/

You seem to be set. For what it's worth, MAPP gas is the way to do for working on vehicles. Propane is for plumbing - doesn't get very hot.

Me neither... it certainly excels at at dripping everywhere and making things orange, though.

I've seen this data floating around for a while. Liquid Wrench has recently changed formulations (at least here) and is NOWHERE near as good as it used to be. The old one smelled like high sulphur diesel fuel and really crept into cracks. The new formulation heavily advertises a PTFE additive and smells like some kind of uber-toxic carpet cleaner ****. It comes out all foamy. Aside from giving me a headache it isn't anywhere near as effective.

Basically it just jams in there. It's common for people to use a foam pool noodle in place of the factory piece. The purpose is to keep sand out of the hinges.