Make sure. Chances are you don't need to replace the manifolds. They're hideously expensive, and problems are rare. Downstream of the manifold are two small pipes, then into a Y collector, then there's the actual downpipe. It's just bolts... seized probably, but that's what saw-z-alls for for

 

Just putting it in reverse I notice it drop slightly...I don't really have the knowledge/equipment to check those things so I'd have to ask my mechanic

 

It might just be normal torque roll. Especially when it's running at a higher idle during open loop it is noticeable on my vehicles with non transversely mounted engines.

 

An alternator from a '93 XJ should bolt right into an '88 XJ, right?

 

Nope. In 91 they went to a different alternator which was regulated by the PCM.

Renix uses a Delco CS-130 alternator with an internal regulator.

 

Damn not what I wanted to hear, is there a way to make it work. I have a guy interested in the alternator on my parts jeep which is a '93 and his is an '88.
I made the mistake of telling him "yeah it'll bolt right in" before doing my research, and I'm not the kind of guy who can, with this new information, sell it to him and let him figure it out.

 

So you have a Federal Emissions '00? Lucky you. Not that the 2 piece exhaust manifold can't crack but it is not as much of an issue as with the one piece ones on '99 and down. I would be sure of what your dealing with before you start ripping things out. You just have a Y pipe coming off the exhaust manifolds. Assuming a build date after 1/20/00

https://www.amazon.com/Walker-52439-.../dp/B0049J749I

 

Tell him that upon more detailed research you found it doesn't work.

 

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/zj...nix-xj-109847/

 

i engage my 95 xj into full time 4wd and the light indicator doesnt go on until im braked in drive for a couple of seconds, is my 4x4 engaged or is it malfunctioning. may be a stupid question but im new to this.

 

Here's how the factory suggests you shift the transfer case and I've been doing this since these things were new and I worked at the dealership. Quoted from the owner's manual. The suggestions in CAPS are mine.

"To engage, shift the transfer case lever from 2H to 4H while the vehicle is moving at any legal speed". I LET OFF THE GAS, THROW THE LEVER, TAP THE GAS AND LET OFF.

4L position: " To engage, slow the vehicle to 2-3 MPH , shift the transmission to Neutral, then shift the transfer lever to the right and pull firmly rearward to 4L".

TO SHIFT OUT OF 4L, SHIFT THE TRANSMISSION INTO NEUTRAL WITH THE VEHICLE STOPPED, SHIFT THE TRANSFER CASE LEVER TO 2H, THEN THE TRANS TO D IF YOU HAVE AN AUTOMATIC, OR INTO FIRST GEAR WITH A MANUAL, AND CONTINUE ON.

Revised 11/20/2014

 

So it got warm today, and like I always have, rolled my windows down....well about halfway down my drivers side window got stuck and took forever to roll back up (didn't think it would!). None of the other Windows did this...which has me dumbfounded...the pic is when it got stuck and was delayed in going back up.

 

Try this thread... https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/al...1/#post3331019

As far as how it sounds, try this thread... https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/ch...thread-180356/

Here's a video of mine when it had the Dynomax cat-back on it... not a great video, but you kinda get the idea.

 

Squirt some silicone spray down the vertical rubber channels the glass rides in.

 

Yup. Works wonders. Kinda smelly though, so be prepared to air out your Jeep afterwards.