I think I had seen some on morris4x4.com but I am not sure the exact size.

 

I get mine at the dealership

 

Ok thanks

 

I've heard that there is a limited slip from some volvos that can work in a jeep. My question is, is it for the front axle, or the rear axle?

 

front

 

To clarify. You are taking it out of a rear dana 30 on the Volvo and putting it in your front dana 30 on the jeep

 

^ this

 

thank you for the clarification

 

Hey guys, good idea with this thread for us new guys... just wondering if anybody knows the maximum quantity/volume of air being used at full throttle? I couldn't find any specs for a stock 95 4.0 HO....

 

I have a 96 grand Cherokee 5.2 4x4 limited. I got new Pcv from Napa. Old pcv was stuck in valve cover with no grommet and broke when I removed it. Is there a smaller Pcv and grommet to fit. Napa and other stores seem to be the same size. Anyone had this problem can help? Thanks

 

Don't exist because those bolts are metric. M14, 2.0 thread pitch 120mm long, ISO Class 10.9. I bought replacements at a specialty fastener shop. Factory uses flanged heads but you can get normal bolts and use M14 Class 10.9 or 9/16" Grade 8 washers.

 

Hey everyone, Im extremely aggravated with my rig right now. I have a 1998 Jeep Cherokee Classic 4.0l.

The Issue: When i pull out the headlight ****, the headlights turn on and the brake lights do as well so when im driving around at night it looks as if my foots on the brake the entire time. The F16 15A fuse kept blowing and my whole dash would stop working alongside the radio. I followed a few forum posts and narrowed it down to the C7 Connector in the Junction Block. After disconnecting the C7 connector i stopped blowing the fuse and the dash and radio would work fine, but the rear nigh-time driving lights would not come on and the rear electric door locks would not work (obviously powered through the connector)

I took off the back lift gate and went through all the wires and did not find any real breaks, only slight cracks in the wire insulation which i then fixed. When i reconnected the C7 connector it was still blowing the fuse.

Since I was getting annoyed and needed to narrow it down further Began to clip each wire connected to the C7 connector until the fuse stopped blowing. I found that the issue lied with "Cavity 4 - Circuit M1 20PK FUSED B(+)". After cutting that wire i was able to reconnect C7 without blowing the fuse, but the brake issue when the headlights come on still remains.

Someone please help me figure this out, the electrical issue is making me wanna rip my hair out

 

Do you have a factory tow hitch..with wire plug? if so have you checked G302-304 connections and the relays for burnt or corroded pins ..

I had a relay messing up on mine and it would make my turn signals in the back light up at the same time like a stuck hazard.


Pic from CCken. arrows point to the gounds.. The relays are easy to find in that little holder next to g302 ground.

 

I know this topic has been beat to death but I can't find an answer. My 97 XJ did not come with fog lights. However, it has the factory plug laying behind the grill. Also, it has the factory wires running to where the switch should go. Everything I read says they aren't plug and play. If I'm getting power to both plugs, why couldn't I plug in a factory switch and lights? Am I missing something?

 

This might help.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/fac...e-them-220836/