Kimberly, you may have more than one thing going on here. I suspect the transmission fluid level may be low causing the delay and then the lurch. The change in idle speed could be caused by a vacuum leak, but I'm just guessing at that. Does it idle smooth and stable if you slip it into neutral? If not, take your foot off the brake in neutral. I'm thinking a vacuum leak in the brake booster. Check the transmission fluid level in NEUTRAL. It makes a difference. Use only ATF+4 fluid. How does the transmission fluid look and smell? If it's black and smells burnt, that's a sign of problems. Also someone may have used the wrong fluid in it.
As far as the "lifters" are concerned, the straight 6 engine is known for lifter rattle at idle and it's nothing to be concerned about. They all do it to some degree.
Do some research and get back to us. I've been spending a lot of time in the Cherokee section because I just bought one, but I'll start checking back here again as well. You probably should post this as a regular thread so it doesn't get lost amongst other posts.
Dave will be along as soon as he gets back on. He is the Grand Cherokee expert. He has battle one for a long time and knows every nut and bolt.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dave1123
Kimberly, you may have more than one thing going on here. I suspect the transmission fluid level may be low causing the delay and then the lurch. The change in idle speed could be caused by a vacuum leak, but I'm just guessing at that. Does it idle smooth and stable if you slip it into neutral? If not, take your foot off the brake in neutral. I'm thinking a vacuum leak in the brake booster. Check the transmission fluid level in NEUTRAL. It makes a difference. Use only ATF+4 fluid. How does the transmission fluid look and smell? If it's black and smells burnt, that's a sign of problems. Also someone may have used the wrong fluid in it.
As far as the "lifters" are concerned, the straight 6 engine is known for lifter rattle at idle and it's nothing to be concerned about. They all do it to some degree.
Do some research and get back to us. I've been spending a lot of time in the Cherokee section because I just bought one, but I'll start checking back here again as well. You probably should post this as a regular thread so it doesn't get lost amongst other posts.
Thanks so much for taking time to reply I will check all the things you’ve mentioned and get back to here afterwards. Thank you 😊 Thank you 😊 Thank you 😊
Kimberly, you may have more than one thing going on here. I suspect the transmission fluid level may be low causing the delay and then the lurch. The change in idle speed could be caused by a vacuum leak, but I'm just guessing at that. Does it idle smooth and stable if you slip it into neutral? If not, take your foot off the brake in neutral. I'm thinking a vacuum leak in the brake booster. Check the transmission fluid level in NEUTRAL. It makes a difference. Use only ATF+4 fluid. How does the transmission fluid look and smell? If it's black and smells burnt, that's a sign of problems. Also someone may have used the wrong fluid in it.
As far as the "lifters" are concerned, the straight 6 engine is known for lifter rattle at idle and it's nothing to be concerned about. They all do it to some degree.
Do some research and get back to us. I've been spending a lot of time in the Cherokee section because I just bought one, but I'll start checking back here again as well. You probably should post this as a regular thread so it doesn't get lost amongst other posts.
:/ now it won’t crank this morning, it’s not the battery and i just put gasoline in yesterday... I’m not sure I’m even posting this right on the forum. I’m sorry.
:/ now it won’t crank this morning, it’s not the battery and i just put gasoline in yesterday... I’m not sure I’m even posting this right on the forum. I’m sorry.
From the sounds of it you need to find a respected shop in your area and take it in. If your not mechanically capable you will be running yourself in circles.
From the sounds of it you need to find a respected shop in your area and take it in. If your not mechanically capable you will be running yourself in circles.
I know.,.its a money thing so I’m trying to learn to be mechanical. I’ve already put at least $400 into it along with the price I bought it for.
Just for jollies, try shifting to neutral and trying to start it. It could be the neutral safety switch. If that doesn't work, try wiggling the shifter back and forth slightly while holding the key in the start position.
98ZJ with no frame damage has to have fenders and hood replaced. I can get my hands on parts from a 99WJ. Would the inner fender well of the 99 match up with the outer fenders of a 98ZJ?
