I wasn't able to use my Jeep this past summer because of my little upside down issue, but for next summer I am going to add a hydraulic dual routing valve to my return line so that I can choose whether to route it through the supplemental cooler in the summer or bypass the supplemental in the winter. What do you think?

 

I see what your saying an it sucks because your right! The tras does need to warm up correctly and I under stand that but I would really hate to run into the same issue again with getting water in my tras from the radiator. I replaced this radiator a year a go with a new one and it is covered under warranty to be replaced but the radiator company sure is not going to pay for the rebuild to my transmission now or if it happens again. Which is why I was trying to bypass the thing. I all ready have a good secondary cooler because we do a lot of towing with this jeep. I guess the only thing to do is put it back together they way it should be and hope for the best. Although a transmission temp gauge probably would be a good ideal so I can monitor the tras temp from now on.

 

Princess done got herself a ZJ...

Anything in particular I need to know about '98 Laredo? 4.0, Auto, 4wd.

 

If it's got the 242 Selectrac, you're good to go, same as an XJ. If it's got the 249 Quadratrac, they can be a problem with the viscous coupling. Check for wheel hop or skidding on tight low speed turns. Just like your XJ would be in 4wd on dry pavement. The coupling is a bit pricey and requires a total teardown of the t/case to replace.

The 4.0 with a 242 will last until the frame rots!

 

So I need some help from y'all. I have a 98 Laredo sport that is not shifting.
while driving the rpms either rev high or low and the fastest I can go is 35mph. I'll let of the gas and this is what happens, the odometer light goes off, the oil and temp gauges shut off. I give it gas and the light and gauges come back on. This is my daily driver and I need some insight on this problem

 

If you park it for ~7+ days and the battery is dead the BCMs are known to go bad and never shut off draining the battery ask me how I know...lol

replied to your thread here: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f5/98-...ifting-246607/

 

Stupid viscous coupler... good idea in theory... but bad in execution.

Replaced my 249 with a 231 because of that.

 

Hey guys, hope you can help.
I have 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, straight 6, auto, 4x4.

Recently I have this strange problem occur:
When my headlights are OFF, my rear lights All work perfectly fine - Brake, signal, running lights & Backup.

When I turn ON my Headlights, my Rear Brake lights go Completely out.

This is the same for both automatic and manual settings.

Fuses all look good.
I dont get it, any help is appreciated.

 

 

Any one have some photos of good and bad bands and clutches? I got some parts and I think they maybe good but I cant find a reference for the bands.

 

I found a 2004 4.0 WJ Quadra-Trac II with 185k miles on it. I have no maintence record for the vehicle. It starts right up and sounds great and everything seems to work... Bit worried about the mileage and if it was well maintained... its clean in and out no rust and ruined interior. The vehicle is from NY...what should i pay attention to?

 

Anyone know the colors on a 2011? Splicing in some resistors & I don't have a test light.

 

By a lucky guess, it was white with a yellow stripe, or the outside wire that wasn't black.

 

I was going to change the taillight blinker bulb in my 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee. When I tried to turn the bulb socket counter clockwise, the tab broke off (probably brittle due to age). Now how can I get the bulb socket unscrewed so I can change the bulb? Is it alright to spray WD40 on the bulb socket part so it might turn?

 

Disconnect all power and use a pair of insulated needle nose pliers and insert into socket and turn.

FYI WD40 will do jack squat as a "penetrant". Use PB Blaster or something.