From the following link to manual, page 682 "The transmission oil temperature sensor (1) is located in the shell of the electric valve control unit and is fixed to the conductor tracks. Its purpose is to measure the temperature of the transmission oil and pass the temperature to the TCM as an input signal. It is a temperature-dependent resistor (PTC)."
http://lx.abodiesonline.com/Manuals/NAG1%20Manual.pdf
Also; http://www.wkjeeps.com/wk_transm.htm

 

I am getting a new to me 05 grand cherokee rocky mountain edition, Any one know anything about the sound system therein? I have heard it is upgraded, but as it seems its the same as the laredo trimline.

 

I hope someone has seen this problem. I have a 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 4.ol engine. 2 wheel drive with 42 RE automatic. Seems like I've changed or checked everything under the Sun but, Jeep runs fine until it gets above 160 degrees or so. If parked the engine accelerates fine but, when you go for a test drive it hardly responds to the throttle. It will downshift if the gas pedal is pushed down & eventually get some power. Very little response from the pedal trying to drive normal. After it cools off it will run just fine until the temp gauge goes above 160 degrees or so. I've changed PCM, O2 sensor and all other sensors have been checked or changed. New Catalytic converter & muffler changed just a few years ago. I doubt they have 25k miles on them. Any ideas would help.

 

Does the transmission fluid cross over from the transmission to the transfer case? I ask because on my 42 RE the transmission and the transfer case bolt together to make one unit and I just had to take my transmission down to be rebuilt because of water damage. Do I need to drain and inspect my transfer case?

 

Try removing the radiator cap while it is cold and leave it off start the motor and let it run till it gets up to the problem temperature once you are above your 160 degrees rev the motor up no higher then 2,500 rpm's and see if your radiator over flows remember water if used boils at 212 degrees so if you are using water and you get to 212 degrees the test don't work. But your motor should not really get above 180 if it does replace the thermostat. I really would of started with a key trick test to test the pcm and all the sensors but if it boils over before 212 or not reply back and I will tell you what to check next. motors are my thing.

 

No, they are separate units that contain their own fluids, BUT both are vented so if you've got water in the transmission, you should drain and refill the t/case as well. There are seals between the 2 units and a drain slot in that part where they are bolted together.

Of course, if you have a 2wd, you don't HAVE a t/case! Or are you being a troll?

 

Nope legit question. My 42RE is basically all one unit the 4x4 A500 42re has three section to it. the main transmission that houses the valve body and bands plus two clutch packs, the overdrive section which houses the over drive clutches, and then the T/case attaches directly to the OD section of the transmission and when I took it apart it looks like they exchange fluid. Because when we tiped the tras fluid came out the rear seal were they attached, and when we tipped the T/case red fluid came out the front seal on it were it attached to the OD section. I dont know if this is normal are the seals worren out or dose fluid travel from one to another? An on my transmission and T/case there are only one vent tube outlet. My vent tube is located on the driver side of the T/case and runs one tube up to the backside of the motor and ends there. Not there is another vent tube running from my front 4x4 axle but it has never attached to anything so I tied it off up near the brake booster to keep it out the way.

 

^ Transfer case is a sealed unit, fluid should not leak out from front input shaft. That same input shaft mates with seal on overdrive unit. Fluid will come out from rear of OD unit when transfer case is not attached.

 

so no transfer fluid should be possible but to be on the safe side change fluid due to the fact the transmission had water in it vapor transfer and all. Should I change out my main input and output seals as well on the T/case just to be on the safe side I think I should they look old probably the originals for a 93?

 

^ Correct, best to change at least the front seal while it's separated from overdrive unit. Original seals are sure to be brittle by now.
Also, since the input shaft of T/case is what seals the OD unit, keep it clean and free of nicks/scrapes.

Not sure about your '93 but my '00 42re has a drain channel molded into the mating surfaces of OD unit and transfer case, so a failing seal will leak fluid to make it obvious there is an issue. I found about two quarts on the garage floor one morning from that channel. The OD seal was brittle and failed after offroading.

 

thank you guys will do!

 

Thanks for the input. Obviously you know a great deal about engines. I will keep your note. However I think my problem is the catalytic converter. It reads 350 % in and 229 % out after you drive the car. After it is parked and still running it reads 229 in and out. I had the cat & muffler replaced by Midas a few years back and very few miles have been driven since (maybe 20K). Don't deal with Midas they use junk parts.

 

How would you size a stand alone cooler for your transmission? I need to install a trans cooler that has nothing to do with the radiator. I don"t want to include the radiator in my transmission cooling circuit because recently we had a transfer of fluids problem where water got in to the transmission from the radiator so I just want to cut that issue right out. I was going to us one of my old AC cooling coils I have stacked off to the side but I dont know if it is going to be too big or too small. The cooling coil I have now from the AC is roughly 2 ft x 3 ft But I think the coolant passages may be too small for trans oil since an AC takes Freon and a Transmission takes a oil. Has any one ever done this? Do you think it will work. I grew up in the muddy woods with my dad and uncles and seen a lot of messed up quick fixes but never this. Any input would be good.

 

FYI. The transmission fluid line that passes through radiator is actually a heat exchanger. It adds heat to fluid on warm up, maintains a steady temp of fluid during operation, and will remove excess heat.

I have run a stand alone cooler made for transmission fluid that limits flow of cold fluid to allow warm-up (7.5' x 11" 3/4"). Plate & fin type cooler, more effective and more durable than tube & fin. It was on a Cherokee XJ, 4.0, AW4 transmission.

The AW4 is a good size transmission that makes a lot of heat. The B&M cooler worked well but temps stayed below 140F during normal driving. Would get up to 180F on beach. Cooler was mounted in front of mechanical fan so that it always has airflow.B&M SuperCooler 70268

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bmm-70268?seid=srese2&cm_mmc=pla-msn-_-shopping-_-srese2-_-b-m&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Bing +Shopping+Ads&utm_term=4582283429449145&utm_conten t=B%26M

 

The point you made about the rad being a heat exchanger is good. In extremely cold climates, the trans needs to warm up before it shifts properly. Running thru the radiator coils helps it do this.

cdmc1984, I have to apologize about calling you a troll. I got your question confused with the 2wd question. My bad!