In those days, you could have a jeep built any way you wanted, but dealers usually ordered 242s with the 4.0s and 249s with V8s. The Cherokees (XJ) came with the 231 which is 2wd and part time 4wd.

The trick with the 242 in a V8 is the transmission output shaft splines are a different size than the I6. The input shaft on the 242 can be changed pretty easily if you get one that doesn't match.

Here's an old post about the different cases, but the pictures have been deleted. The text tells you what years match and how to convert them.

jeepforum.com/forum/f13/transfer-case-swap-info-np249-np231-np242-685644

 

Thanks, dave, good link. I now realize the swap is not as easy as I thought. I'm going to look at this gc on Friday and I'll see then what it has, but sounds like it's a slim slim chance of a 242.

 

1998 GC 4.0 2WD w/auto

There is a vacuum line which runs from a nipple on the top rear of the intake manifold, along the top of the firewall, and then connects to the Cruise Control Module. It may go further to a vacuum receiver tank under the battery - but I've never actually seen that: I've just heard that to be the case.

But -

Just above where the refrigerant lines go through the firewall - the vacuum line I just described has a tee in it. Out of the side of this tee is a short stub of tubing.

Where was that originally attached? Where does that little tee'ed off line go? I can't find the rest of the vacuum line anywhere in the vicinity.


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It goes thru the firewall to the heater controls. It probably broke at the firewall. It operates the "mode" control, the one that sends air to different ducts. I'll bet you only have defrost, right? That's the "default" position.

The vacuum reservoir is usually under the battery tray, but on later models it's under the headlight support panel on top of the bumper.

 

Does anybody know for sure if the 2wd tailshaft housing will bolt directly to the t/case flange of a 4wd transmission or are the flanges for the t/case and tailshaft different?

 

Grand Cherokee Limited 2009 WK 5.7 V8 - 170k mi.

Transmission is starting to act up. Most of the time it works perfectly. It is my Wife's vehicle and she has never complained about it. Once in a while, when i drive it, I notice what I would describe as a "clunk" when putting it in gear. Occasionally, at low speeds, the vehicle will down shift hard enouh to make a "clunk" and slow the vehicle down noticeably, as if you manually down shifted at too high of speed. I also noticed that when driving at high speed, if you take your foot off the accelerator and put your foot back in it a little, it will make the "clunk" noise. No surging, slipping or other performance issues beyond the occasional hard down shift and the "clunk".

I had the fluid changed. No difference.

I was wondering if I should have someone look at it or just wait until it gets worse.

Unfortunately, I can't work on transmissions, nor do I have a mechanic I can trust 100%.

Any thoughts, suggestions or info on known issues would be super helpful.

Thanks.

 

So the low beam went out on the driver's side and I was thinking to upgrade the ZJ headlights. I've been searching around and no one seems to make a kit except for the eBay ones. I upgraded my XJ with the rampage glass housings, with H4 bulbs and it's the nicest headlight setup I've ever had and it was barely over $100 all said and done. Anything like that for the ZJ? I need yo replace at least one turn signal housing too, maybe something like this might be cheaper/better: http://r.ebay.com/uuW9rH

 

For future reference, put a url in square brackets before the site name and a /url in square brackets after it. This turns it into a "clickable" link. There are a bunch of lazy guys here! LOL!

Just make sure they have heaters in them or they'll ice up in MI.

 

Guys, I have questions about doing the front tow hooks. I went to mount mine last night and they are no where near fitting. The very front mounting bolt is like 1/3" low and angled wrong. Im pretty sure now its been in an accident at some point in its life. Is it safe to heat and persuade the mounting bracket and then mount? As I try to make this thing more Alaska suited, the more I am finding wrong with it....

 

When I researched tow hooks for mine, they came with a bracket that mounts to the frame with 1/4" pop rivets! Then the hooks bolt to them.

 

Thats just it, someone got the front end almost straight, but it still got a dimple where the brackets are supposed to mount to. I can get 1 of the 2 bolts in the plate, which ever I try to put on last cant due to being cockeyed. I also lost the ubolt thing for the odd ball leg that goes off to the side inside the bumper beam somewhere.

 

Does any one know if I can replace the plastic vacuum line that goes to my throttle body from the evap thing on the drivers side of the jeep with just regular line or do I need to buy the plastic one? It was very brittle and just broke on me when i was putting the throttle body and things back together.
Also trying to figure out a why its got a little bit of a stumble or kinda surging idle after it starts up. It will start fine, never had issues with it starting then about 20-30 seconds it will have a stumble and sounds like its gonna die (smells rich). After about a minute or two its fine and drives normal. Its every time you start it that it does that, warmed up or cold. I cleaned the throttle body up and the IAC but didn't seem to help. No check engine light. The only thing is my VIC keeps beeping at me that the coolant sensor is bad. That's a project for another day , I'd just like to get the jeep running good before we get a bunch of snow!

1997 Grand Cherokee 5.2 v8 4wd is whats having issues.

 

You can use any hose that won't collapse under vacuum.

 

Ok, Thanks Dave

 

I am no Jeep Expert - not by a long shot - but is it possible that the failed coolant sensor and the rich-on-startup problem are related? Maybe the PCM uses the coolant sensor input to adjust the air / fuel mis ratio ?

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