Regarding that 2011 with the Trunk Lock Button Not Working - If your door button doesn't make the lock solenoid work, does the key fob button make it work? If none of them work then have you checked fuses? Is the door seated fully into the door jam? Have you referred to the troubleshooting section of your owner's manual yet? If the problem is only localized to the door button itself then the door button may have become disconnected or it has failed. If after all options were tried and failed then the lock solenoid itself may have failed.

 

I Changed the alternator and battery in my truck after sitting for a couple of months. The throttle body light came on. The truck moves at turtles pace and no rpms when I rev the engine at idle. I have a p0113 code for intake temperature sensor 1 (circuit high input). I can change the sensor but I believe its another problem that caused it. I can replace the throttle body though the engine starts and sound good. Please help so I dont have to throw money at it.

 

I need to figure this out for fluid change and upkeep . What Transmission is in it and what Fluid do i need for my 97 ZJ

 

After three XJs and a 97 ZJ Laredo, I finally landed a 98 ZJ Limited 5.9. I can’t wait to start bringing her back. I know most of what I want to do, but I have one mystery problem: she lists to starboard. The passenger side is noticeably lower than the drivers side. I’d expect the opposite—25 years of driver weight with no passenger or a light one—but not this. It does not seem to affect drivability at all.

All four wheels and tires are identical, and pressure is even all around. Underneath, I see all the coil springs and leaf springs, nothing looks bent or broken, and no frame damage I can see. I see four shocks that look as old as the pyramids, but bad shocks would not affect ride height, would they? Can’t see anything causing the lean.

If I measure from the top of the tread to the wheel arch, I get 6 inches on the drivers side and 5.5 inches on the passengers side. Somehow it looks worse than that. So am I just being too picky? Or should I keep looking for a cause? Grateful for suggestions.

 

Yeah, that looks like a nice ZJ. I'd be willing to bet that you'll find the cause while replacing the shocks. Best of luck going forward with "bringing her back". You must know the J.E.E.P. routine by now, dig deep...

 

I got a head buster for you guys i’m running out of options, i was driving my 02 jeep grand cherokee home and it kept running hot so i pulled the thermostat just for it to keep running hot and about 5 minutes from home it ran hot and stalled without warning and when i went to start back up after cooling it down my guages would not work along with my headlight not working but there was power to the cluster. my skim lights is on now and i have replaced the cam and crank shaft sensors and wiring to the connectors and the only codes it has gave me is the transmission fluid pressure code?! the jeep will only turn over but will not fire there’s no power to the fuel pump and all the fuses and relays are brand new… someone out there has have to dealt with this !???
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You're right it's a head buster, as-in cylinder head!
What engine do you have there? Is it a 4.0? You might've both warped/cracked the head AND fried the ecm.
Did you disconnect the sensor and overheat again after that (but without seeing the gauge/light)?

 

it sounds like you have lost power to the Body Control Module. It is under the bezel in drivers side near your knee. It has a fuse in the power distribution box. Start there. Also it sounds like your fans arent coming on. Check the fuse and the fan Control Module.

 

I have the 4.7, and neither cracked or warped the heads but burnt ecm, i’ve considered that from the beginning. and no i didn’t disconnect the sensor, i just kind of took it easy and stopped a few more times until i got just about there then she stalled and that’s when the guages stopped working and the security light came on, but on the other hand my odometer read my mileage and the Abs and gas light came on along with the seatbelt light and she just cranked but wouldn’t start and yes i’m getting fuel and spark but in my case you don’t hear the fuel pump cycle on for the first 3 to 5 seconds like usual but it’s still getting plenty of fuel, also my headlights stopped working, i’ve checked grounds, replaced all fuses and relays twice cleaned all connections and ran new wires in places that i thought need them and showed extra attention to the cam and crank sensors and wires!

 

i considered that as a possibility also but in that case the door panels and the overhead unit all runs off of that BCM and it’s all working as should and i even replaced all fuses and relays and fans are working properly i even got to the point of taking the inter coolers, radiator, electric fans water pump , and thermostat out and cleaned them and made sure the functioned properly and still don’t think i found the reasoning of it over heating let alone why it won’t start and has no power to the guages but everything else on the cluster works as should

 

The last time my BCM freaked-out I got under the dash and pulled the connectors, cleaned/inspected/treated/reconnected every connector underneath, and since I had all the right stuff on-hand I continued into and through the engine bay's connectors later. But that's just me because I don't like electrical/techno-gremlins and they start with dirty/worn contacts, typical in older cars. Here's where I started.

 

I had a weird issue before with a WJ 4.0. The battery cable lost some insulation due to age and heat. That section of cable was near the battery and covered with wire loom. It became so corroded that it wasn't supplying enough power consistently. I had skim issues among other random issues like gauges not working. I twisted the cable in the picture to see how bad it was. Hope that helps.

 

First off - I am very sorry if I'm responding/replying/posting the wrong way, I know zippo about forums, so hopefully this finds the right home.

I've got a 2015 GC Limited and my liftgate is having a hissy fit. Here's the rub:

1.) It had had trouble closing a bit, but slightly rotating the plastic shrouding over the motorized support (driver side, 68231345AA) sometimes worked. No resistance when doing it and I didn't see any signs of unexpected wear (scratches from other shroud piece) or anything on it, so I thought maybe it was just getting hung up somehow there.
2.) I never FORCED it shut, but sometimes had to try alternating between fob and manual button and rotating a handful of times.
3.) Now, it's in the shut position and won't open with button or fob.
4.) It opens approximately 1", stops, then shuts and re-locks.
5.) The fuse seems fine, locking mechanism seems fine, so I'm sort of stuck.

My jump conclusion was that maybe the motor was burned out, but it seems to want to go, but it's almost like it's hitting a point of resistance, sensing that pressure and refusing to open. From it's current closed position, I thought that the latch may have been the sticking point, but it's letting go that little bit. And it was also being a bastard from the open position. Thankfully it closed, I guess.

Any thoughts from the pros? Thank you all, I appreciate it. And I apologize if this is hidden in a thread somewhere, I did a quick look but am brand new to the forum.

Thanks,
DL

 

This got me to thinking but since I'm not sure of the locking mechanism I'll keep it in general terms like "jiggle the handle". You know how, when you have to lean against an old door just so you can turn the doorknob? It's because of the mechanical preload on the hasp. Maybe you can apply pressure against the door while activating the fob. That little "assist" might help the mechanism unload - and if it does then you should apply lock lubricant to all of the mechanism's contact points before locking again. Good luck.

 

If it sat for a couple months, and depending on storage climate, I tend to think in terms of things that are sticky/stuck/conatminated. Start by resetting the codes and then attempt to drive after idle/warm-up to normal operating temp. If/when a DTC returns, scan/confirm if it was a valid code. Clean your throttle body and all the subcomponents, use TB Cleaner and very-very soft brushes/cloths, allow to air dry. Next disconnect, clean, dry and apply dielectric grease to each of the connectors associated with the condition(s). Restore all assemblies & connectors, clear codes and drive again. If code(s) or condition returns then follow the next diagnostic path armed with the knowledge that your TB and the constituent electrical device connections are in reliable condition. Another important thing to consider is fuel integrity. You may need to flush your fuel system and clear clogged injectors before it runs and accelerates smoothly again. If you need to do all that then I'll wish you good luck with the job and wish to recommend the use of Marvel Mystery Oil in your fuel (looking forward), applied periodically and as directed on the label your fuel system and engine's top end will love you for it.