Yes. I hooked up the cobra and used it's meter. It was about 1.7. Not great but plenty for my needs.

 

I'm not an electronics genius by any means, but the close proximity of the CB transmitter to the FM receiver has a lot to do with blanking out the radio, even though they operation on different principles (AM vs FM). Why would you want both on at the same time anyway?

 

That was my line of thinking as far as interference. I drive an hour on the highway to work then and hour back, so I just leave the cb on in case there is an accident I can avoid it. If Im talking I usually turn the stereo off.

 

I guess it is a stupid question since i already ordered the parts. But I cant seem to find a definitive answer. What differential is on a 94 ZJ limited. Its a D30 I think. Any help?

 

Dana 30 would be the front axle, rear axle is likely a Dana 35. (I am not sure if they had the D44a in 1994)

 

OK that is what I ordered was a 30 for the front. Thank you!

 

Anything with the 5.2 had a 44a in the rear IIRC, and don't forget all the ZJ D30's are LP(although won't effect the diffs except for ring and pinion).

 

Finally time to put my exhaust back on. �� So here is the new bolt set but those washers and plastic things clearly wernt on my original set up. Cant find anywhere that shows how they bolt on the new manifold.


Any ideas?? Thanks

 

So I just put 31s on my ZJ and I was told that I should have had to do some fender trimming for them to fit, but I didnt. I looked it up to see how much ground clearance I should have stock and found 8 1/2" but I have way more than that from the looks of it. Where is that measured at and how much should a stock ZJ have? When I did my diff bearings I noticed that my brake lines seem really long, like I just layed the assembly on the ground with it still hooked up long. Im thinking maybe this thing has some lift already? Any thoughts? Here is what it looks like.




This is with the 31s

 

For the past 3 years I've been using Mopar 05281090AB oil filters bought from my local jeep dealer. Just recently I've noticed when I crack the seal taking the filter off, I only get a tiny bit of oil running down the block and the filter itself is empty. Is this normal? I was using AC Delco filters and they were always full of oil when I took them off. I've got great pressure, 40 psi idling hot and 55 psi at 40 mph, but is it possible the pump is worn enough for the oil to return to the pan before I remove the filter? Isn't there a backflow check valve in the filter itself? OR am I worrying about nothing? This is on a 4.0 WJ. It does take a second or 2 for the gauge needle to come up and I don't recall if it did that before. I know it did on first startup with a new filter.

This honey just clocked 200K miles and I'm starting to worry about her. She's starting to use about 1qt of oil every 700 miles and I've noticed a touch of blue smoke in the exhaust. All the gaskets are tight and the rear main isn't leaking. The CCV line is clear and not soaked with oil. Right after the head was changed the #4 plug fouled, I changed it and have had no problems with it since.

 

Not normal for a 4.0L. They need filters with integral "anti-drain back valves" which are indeed check valves. I'd start buying another brand if I were you.

As for oil I'm going to guess a valve stem seal. I would imagine rings that far gone would cause a misfire. Is #4 plug still nasty?

 

The Mopar filters were the ones I was talking about. I don't have a problem going back to ACs, but I thought the Mopars would be the best, not so I gather.

The head change was 50K miles ago and after replacing that plug, it's run fine, however lately there's been a roughness in the idle that I haven't investigated yet. It's probably that same plug again. It's funny you should mention the valve seals. This was a "Clearwater" head that came with new valves and springs already assembled so IDK what seals are in it. It's possible they are garbage. I really have to do a compression test to eliminate the rings as a source of the problem. It's not easy to do, but I have put new stem seals on engines without pulling the heads. I put Perfect Circle Teflon seals on a Chevy 350 that way.

About the plugs, when I put the head on, We put a new set of Champs in it. Immediately it started missing, coded misfire cylinder#3. Pulled that plug and it was crapped up. Cleaned it to find a cracked insulator. We decided to try a set of NGKs and after about 3 weeks, misfire cylinder #4. Pulled that out and stuck one of the Champs back in that cylinder. It's run perfectly that way for about 40K miles, BUT it's been using oil since the head change. I was thinking valve seals because it was something I hadn't checked and I guess I had to be hit on the head by someone else to recognize it. Thanks Salad for your insight!

 

I wouldn't hesitate to pick up a Purolator filter, either.

I've noticed that the Farm Jeep has been having dry starts on a WIX 51515. A couple of other people have been complaining of similar problems on WIX filters so maybe somewhere out there in factory-land there's a bad batch of valves. Although this filter was on the shelf for three years...

 

I HAVE noticed the valve is a different design than I'm used to seeing. It used to be just a rubber flap that covered the holes. Now it seems to be internal or lower than the back of the holes. It might be they redesigned the valve to be BOTH the bypass valve & the backflow valve to save costs. That would explain a lot of things.

 

Hi all new to the Jeep world, looking at a grand cherokee, is there a specific yr that's better, it's not going to be a DD but can be if needed to. Mostly looking to play in the mud, fire trails and snow with my friends. Do I stick with the 6 cyl, or V8? Thanks for any help!!!