Sep 21, 2015, 03:49 PM
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CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 4,145
Likes: 0
unless its been swapped you have the 27 spline with the smaller axle shafts...no bueno
Got a 95 4 banger 5 speed, no tow package, 2wd, 8.25, base package (manual everything, not rear wiper 
) 2 door even though that wouldnt matter
Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 123
Likes: 0
From: Bennett, CO
Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4L/6
Lucas sells an awesome fluid to assist with tranny issues. If you fluid is low, add some of this to the tranny. If its not low, change out you tranny filter, replace pan, and add Lucas tranny 'stuff' (sorry, forget the actuall name but its in a white bottle) and reamaining tranny fluid. The Lucas stuff has made two different transmissions I've had come back to life. The Lucas stuff isn't a band-aid, it helps recondition all the internal seals.
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Model: Cherokee
I have a 1997 with a 4.0L. It was running fine but decided to change the wires and plugs as they had not been changed in 70000 miles. I changed the plugs, first with Autolite platinums then with Champions same type as the old plugs. Gapped .035. With new plugs, the Jeep idles and runs rough--seems like a CPM issue. Old plugs, runs fine. I didn't replace the cap or rotor. Would a hotter spark from the new plugs cause more efficent firing thus causing the CPM to regulate differently? Should I replace cap and rotor also? Thanks in advance for any help given!
Last edited by xj4aj; Sep 5, 2010 at 03:18 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 6,322
Likes: 6
From: Summerville, Ga
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5 4 cyl.
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: Frederick Maryland
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
cherokee doors? are they all the same fit?
hi everyone. i just bought a 1996 cherokee country 4dr. 4x4 auto for $50.00...... thats right $50.00! lol it was a buddy of mine. my problem is that the passenger front door has alot of issues. some of the door latch rods are missing and the door has a nice size dent in it. i know i can get new latch rods but i can also get a newer style door from the junk yard for about the same price. i know to check it for damage and i would like to get 2 newer style fronts for both sides so it kinda matches. so basically im wondering if the doors from a 2001 ( just thowin that year out for example) will fit on my 96? thanks for all of your help. oh and i also did a quick search before i posted and didnt find anything. i try not to search too long on things because of all the cool things you come across and get sidetracked lol.
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6
also got the 'no bus' odometer reading
speedo didnt work..then it came back on.did the acctuator test and everything was fine.....fuc$%#ng jeeps lol....anyways is there a way to check the codes with the 'key' technique for a 2000 cherokee?
speedo didnt work..then it came back on.did the acctuator test and everything was fine.....fuc$%#ng jeeps lol....anyways is there a way to check the codes with the 'key' technique for a 2000 cherokee?
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 5,383
Likes: 5
Year: 1988 limited
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 litre
Sorry, looks like this thing got a little lenghty...
I hate it when that happens (and for me, it happens a lot!), I usually select the text before I submit and hit copy (crtl c) so it'a at least in the buffer incase something happens.
Anyway, thanks for the info! In all the other places I've looked no one said anything about changing carriers or anything, just said "gearing available up to (whatever was availible when they posted)" I'm not recalling what the 'carrier' is, is this what is referred to the third member, the part with the planetary gears and the ring bolts to, or is there another part in the 8.25 I've not seen in other axles?
My 'household welder' is crap, I'd still have to have help or barrow a welder, which isn't too hard, just gas and maybe a trailer if they won't let me take it. I have a POS harbor frieght welder that did maybe one good weld in it's life, and now won't do well on anything over sheetmetal. I'm not even sure I can get a good tack weld out of it! Oh, well, just have to figure that into the whole thing.
So are you saying I should try and sell the axle (probibly can't get more than $100 for it around here) to pay for regearing the front to match the 8.8? (if I understand, it's currently in a 96 Explorer, unknown trans.) I guess what my issue boils down to, is if I'm spending the money to regear the front, I'd want to regear the back to what I want for my end result, so I'm not buying a gear set that will just sit around after one season's use. I'm not sure if I have the money for both front and rear, though. What I was considering on the 8.25 was to weld it, run it as is, and if I need to regear do it at the t-case for low range (which I haven't researched yet for cost). If you know where to get r&p for cheaper than about $150 or so, please let me know!
Would there be similar issues with the front as well? upper limits of gearing or carrier replacements or such like that to hit 4.56 or 4.88? (other than the fact the axle is weaker than the rear and can't do as much, it does have to match the rear, though) If there is, but isn't to match say a 4.11 8.8, then my question is solved.
This was the only point of your reply I had an issue with. I tried to look up where you hail from to see if you've been around the trails I've been on to see what perspective you're coming from. These trails are either muddy (in the spring), or loose dirt and rocks (summer). I've seen rigs with 35-37" tires, locked rear, and a winch almost denied on some parts of the trail my cousin has no trouble with (fully locked on 35's). I'm sure there are many places that won't require as much as these, but I've got to go with about the same equipment others I off road with are equipped with, so I'm not holding them back or getting pulled out every ten minutes. Indeed, I've been given a sort of ultimatum to build equal to theirs or I'm not going along anymore (they don't seem to have faith in a stock XJ?)
From what I've learned over the time there are 3 things that affect traction: Tires, # of powered wheels, and articulation. The best is all three as good as they can be, but two are a must. You can get by without articulation if you have good tires and lockers, and you don't need lockers if you can keep 4 good tires on the ground. Poor tires (worn or stock) can be ok traction wise if you have good articulation and lockers. Considering the kind of stuff I do, I wouldn't find a rear locker a waste, and I'd hate to end up in a group where no one had a winch (or the only winch in the group fried, or was the one in trouble). We did ok with a tow strap on the last run, but on the run before that a winch was being run probibly 10-15% of the day I was there, due to mud and accidents (some ours, some others we were helping out with). I'd rather have one than not and wish I had.
I hate it when that happens (and for me, it happens a lot!), I usually select the text before I submit and hit copy (crtl c) so it'a at least in the buffer incase something happens.
Anyway, thanks for the info! In all the other places I've looked no one said anything about changing carriers or anything, just said "gearing available up to (whatever was availible when they posted)" I'm not recalling what the 'carrier' is, is this what is referred to the third member, the part with the planetary gears and the ring bolts to, or is there another part in the 8.25 I've not seen in other axles?
My 'household welder' is crap, I'd still have to have help or barrow a welder, which isn't too hard, just gas and maybe a trailer if they won't let me take it. I have a POS harbor frieght welder that did maybe one good weld in it's life, and now won't do well on anything over sheetmetal. I'm not even sure I can get a good tack weld out of it! Oh, well, just have to figure that into the whole thing.
So are you saying I should try and sell the axle (probibly can't get more than $100 for it around here) to pay for regearing the front to match the 8.8? (if I understand, it's currently in a 96 Explorer, unknown trans.) I guess what my issue boils down to, is if I'm spending the money to regear the front, I'd want to regear the back to what I want for my end result, so I'm not buying a gear set that will just sit around after one season's use. I'm not sure if I have the money for both front and rear, though. What I was considering on the 8.25 was to weld it, run it as is, and if I need to regear do it at the t-case for low range (which I haven't researched yet for cost). If you know where to get r&p for cheaper than about $150 or so, please let me know!
Would there be similar issues with the front as well? upper limits of gearing or carrier replacements or such like that to hit 4.56 or 4.88? (other than the fact the axle is weaker than the rear and can't do as much, it does have to match the rear, though) If there is, but isn't to match say a 4.11 8.8, then my question is solved.
This was the only point of your reply I had an issue with. I tried to look up where you hail from to see if you've been around the trails I've been on to see what perspective you're coming from. These trails are either muddy (in the spring), or loose dirt and rocks (summer). I've seen rigs with 35-37" tires, locked rear, and a winch almost denied on some parts of the trail my cousin has no trouble with (fully locked on 35's). I'm sure there are many places that won't require as much as these, but I've got to go with about the same equipment others I off road with are equipped with, so I'm not holding them back or getting pulled out every ten minutes. Indeed, I've been given a sort of ultimatum to build equal to theirs or I'm not going along anymore (they don't seem to have faith in a stock XJ?)
From what I've learned over the time there are 3 things that affect traction: Tires, # of powered wheels, and articulation. The best is all three as good as they can be, but two are a must. You can get by without articulation if you have good tires and lockers, and you don't need lockers if you can keep 4 good tires on the ground. Poor tires (worn or stock) can be ok traction wise if you have good articulation and lockers. Considering the kind of stuff I do, I wouldn't find a rear locker a waste, and I'd hate to end up in a group where no one had a winch (or the only winch in the group fried, or was the one in trouble). We did ok with a tow strap on the last run, but on the run before that a winch was being run probibly 10-15% of the day I was there, due to mud and accidents (some ours, some others we were helping out with). I'd rather have one than not and wish I had.
The third member is the part you can remove from a solid beam axle (the cover is one piece welded to the tubes) like the ford 9 or the toyota axles. It is the pinion tail together with the differential and comes out from the front.
'96 explorer is a 31 spline axle, the toughest. If it has 4.11s you will still need to replace the carrier in the dana 30 to match the gears, or if you're lucky you find a 2.5 or a diesel cherokee in the JY and it still has the axle on it.
I won't advise you to weld your gears for a reason of criterion, i am more a kind of guy that would save a little more for a spindle if i wanted a permanently locked axle.
Consider that driving on everything that isn't very slippery will be an issue.
The 8.25 won't last long, especially with 35s and it will feel as if the engine has a cold with 3.55 gears.
I usually wheel on two kind of trails: where i live i have only sand dunes and a winch is useless where you don't have trees. Even if you attach to a buddys jeep the result will be two sanded jeeps. The only thing that saves you is a shovel.
The other terrain i hit is in the mountains near my hometown and that is mainly mud, not the watery kind but the clay kind one. Terrific. What counts the most in this kind of mud is axle height (big tires) and engine power (speed). You have only a couple of chances to pass a mud hole, once the tire tread is full of mud you lose traction wether you are locked or not. Winch is good but not necessary, a buddy on the other side of the hole will pull you out with tow straps. When it rains we take the tractor up there. One time we had to call a buddy with the dozer to pull out the tractor.
I have also a manual winch but i used it only one time, once i broke a bead on the suzuki and i used the rim as a winch drum to get out.
Articulation and lockers are the must for rock crawling (armor there), trial and rainforest challenge where a winch comes out handy to avoid backing up penalty, for these kind of trails i usually take my fathers samurai that is locked front and rear, 31s and winch. My father is currently building a sidekick with toyota axles, buick 215 v8 (rover version) and doubler because it has a short wheel base and the space to fit a v8 in it.
People tend to put heavy axles and huge tires under their rigs forgetting to upgrade also the power and torque to move them. The result is stuck heavy asses and toasted trannys.
Xjs handle very well in almost all situations, consider that an XJ has the same drive train of a wrangler but weighs 480lb less. Drawbacks are the longer wheelbase and approach angles. That's why i don't like the winch bumpers on the market, they stick out a lot and approach angles are even worse than stock bumpers. I want to cut off the most i can from the rear, and i am currently drawing my bumpers (signature thread) so to fit a hidden recessed winch in the front.
My buddys drive all Defenders, Land Cruisers and Nissan Patrol GR(you don't have that one in the states, google it up). When i first showed up with the Cherokee they laughed at me and said "put the strap on front", then they said "you were lucky to go up there", then they said "it's all because you have the 4.0", and then they became all serious and said nothing else when i pulled out their heavy asses a couple of times.
All the above said, the last but maybe most important thing is driving ability, that is something you have to have from birth.
Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 229
Likes: 1
Year: 1985
Model: Cherokee
Engine: puny lil 4 cyld... 2,5 litres, I-4, carburettor
hi everyone. i just bought a 1996 cherokee country 4dr. 4x4 auto for $50.00...... thats right $50.00! lol it was a buddy of mine. my problem is that the passenger front door has alot of issues. some of the door latch rods are missing and the door has a nice size dent in it. i know i can get new latch rods but i can also get a newer style door from the junk yard for about the same price. i know to check it for damage and i would like to get 2 newer style fronts for both sides so it kinda matches. so basically im wondering if the doors from a 2001 ( just thowin that year out for example) will fit on my 96? thanks for all of your help. oh and i also did a quick search before i posted and didnt find anything. i try not to search too long on things because of all the cool things you come across and get sidetracked lol.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 530
Likes: 0
From: Nevada City, California
Year: 2K
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 with Mustang fuel injectors; 60mm Throttle Body;
Check your fuses
Hi guys
I tried searching but to no avail.
I have an '01 XJ w/~140 on the clock. I got a CEL for the catalytic converter efficiency. Unfortunately, I have one of the XJ's blessed with 3 cats and the front two cost an arm and a leg to replace. I don't live in CA, but we do have emissions checks here and I won't pass with the CEL on. I plan on replacing the o2 sensors, but I don't feel like dropping $350 bucks on the front cats. I can weld in some universals, but has anyone had success going doing away with the 3 cats and going to a single cat and relocating the o2 sensors as necessary (2 before, 2 after if I have 4, but I may only have 3, I don't remember)?
I still get 22mpg on the highway, so I think the sensors are reading right, but the engine feels down on power and it has a slight rumble at idle.
Thanks
I tried searching but to no avail.
I have an '01 XJ w/~140 on the clock. I got a CEL for the catalytic converter efficiency. Unfortunately, I have one of the XJ's blessed with 3 cats and the front two cost an arm and a leg to replace. I don't live in CA, but we do have emissions checks here and I won't pass with the CEL on. I plan on replacing the o2 sensors, but I don't feel like dropping $350 bucks on the front cats. I can weld in some universals, but has anyone had success going doing away with the 3 cats and going to a single cat and relocating the o2 sensors as necessary (2 before, 2 after if I have 4, but I may only have 3, I don't remember)?
I still get 22mpg on the highway, so I think the sensors are reading right, but the engine feels down on power and it has a slight rumble at idle.
Thanks
Hope this helps and give thanks to CJ7_Tim for the info.
Power distribution center (under the hood)
Looking at the PDC from the front of the vehicle, the bottom right mini fuse is #16,
the one above it is #17, the top one in the column is #18.
Fuse #19 is to the left (of #16)
Fuse #16 underhood lamp, transmission control module, radio & interior lights
Fuse #17 O2 downstream relay
fuse #18 coil rail & injectors
Fuse #19 headlamp switch & data connector
Fuse #20 combination flasher
Fuse #22 fuel pump relay
Fuse #23 brakelamp switch
Fuse #25 fog lamp relay
Fuse #26 power amplifier
Now to the junction/fuse block (inside kick panel)
Fuse #1 is the large 25A on the top of the left column
Fuse #15 is the large 25A on the top of the right column
Fuse #1 power outlet
Fuse #2 cigar lighter
Fuse #3 left headlamp
Fuse #4 left headlamp
Fuse #5 right headlamp
Fuse #6 Dash lights (switches, controls, gauge cluster)
Fuse #7 license light & the left side turn, parking, marker and tail lamp
Fuse #8 Spare
Fuse #9 compass, sentry key, headlamp delay module, instrument cluster
Fuse #10 transmission range sensor, duty cycle evap/purge solenoid, radiator fan relay, a/c clutch relay, o2 sensor up/downstream relays, back up lamp switch
Fuse #11 transmission control module, powertrain control module, automatic shutdown relay, fuel pump relay
Fuse #12 instrument cluster, combination flasher
Fuse #13 Spare
Fuse #14 power mirrors, rear defogger & switch
Fuse #15 passenger power lock/window switch
Fuse #16 cargo lamp/switch, courtesy lamps, radio, instrument cluster, underhood lamp, transmission control module
Fuse #17 radio
Fuse #18 power mirror switch, driver power window/lock switch, heated seats
Fuse #19 starter motor relay
Fuse #20 trailer tow harness & trailer turn relays
Fuse #21 horn(s)
Fuse #22 rear wiper switch & motor
Fuse #23 right side marker, turn, parking and tail lights
Fuse #24 Spare
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 478
Likes: 0
Model: Cherokee
Help!!! I am tired of searching for what fluids to use and seeing a million different answers. I am changing it in front and rear diff(what kind do i need)? T-case 231(what kind do i need)? And tranny ax-15(what kind do i need)?
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
From: Tacoma
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
just replaced my fuel pump i can here it working but now the truck is not getting fuel my guss is on it needing to be primed but how to do that? also now my fuel gauge is showing full and not moveing at all could i have just pluged the pump/gauge in wrong?
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 4,145
Likes: 0
Gonna try this here since posting my own thread didn't work(Why does nobody every reply to my tech threads?)
I think I may know what the problem is but I'm still gonna post this just to bounce thoughts off other people here to see what they say.
I checked my engine codes today because my Jeep has been acting up.
Under partial throttle she runs fine and normal, but if you go above about 75% throttle(and at other random throttle positions)she sputters, misses, backfires and generally just acts up.
The codes I'm getting are
13 MAP sensor(non issue, the vacuum hose gets disconnected sometimes and I just need to replace the lines so the code is still stored in the computer)
23 IAT sensor
24 TPS (this code is stored twice)
52 O2 detects rich mixture.
I suspect that my TPS is bad and needs to be replaced, which is why i'm getting crappy throttle response and all the issues I stated earlier.
What I'm not sure about is if a bad TPS would cause a rich condition. I'm wondering if maybe my IAT is on its way out and that could be causing the rich condition.
Fantic, BlueXJ...y'know all you geniuses when it comes to XJs. what do yall think? anyone else is more than welcome to chime in.
I think I may know what the problem is but I'm still gonna post this just to bounce thoughts off other people here to see what they say.
I checked my engine codes today because my Jeep has been acting up.
Under partial throttle she runs fine and normal, but if you go above about 75% throttle(and at other random throttle positions)she sputters, misses, backfires and generally just acts up.
The codes I'm getting are
13 MAP sensor(non issue, the vacuum hose gets disconnected sometimes and I just need to replace the lines so the code is still stored in the computer)
23 IAT sensor
24 TPS (this code is stored twice)
52 O2 detects rich mixture.
I suspect that my TPS is bad and needs to be replaced, which is why i'm getting crappy throttle response and all the issues I stated earlier.
What I'm not sure about is if a bad TPS would cause a rich condition. I'm wondering if maybe my IAT is on its way out and that could be causing the rich condition.
Fantic, BlueXJ...y'know all you geniuses when it comes to XJs. what do yall think? anyone else is more than welcome to chime in.
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 4,145
Likes: 0
its deff possible the pump is wired backwards. disconnect the fuel line coming off the tank where it goes into the fuel filter, stick it in an empty water bottle and turn the key to "on" but not to start. this will set the pump to prime for a few seconds but not run continuously. check to see if any fuel came out. if the pump ran and no fuel came out the pump is probably wired backwards.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 881
Likes: 0
From: oregon
Year: 91
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Quick question. I was looking at a steering box in a 93 Zj at the junk yard. It 'looks' like an exact match to my 91 Xj i didnt measure mounts or anything like fluid connections. Anyone have experience swapping these out? Mine has some loose play in the linkage to the column which i assume has to be from the steering box. i have tried tightening down the hex bolt on top of the box until I got a whirring noise then backed it off, but still has the play.