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XJ Ask the Question Thread
Originally Posted by dukie564
nope just the gasket - but why do you need to take the throttle body off to clean the IAC? Just unscrew the screws and pull it out
Newbie
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Shelbyville, TN
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Thanks man!
I just talked to the guy and it seems I read the posting wrong. It came off a 2000 XJ, but if the mounts are even close I think can make it work. He is even going to throw in a couple of 6 in lights that are mounted to it... bonus!
I just talked to the guy and it seems I read the posting wrong. It came off a 2000 XJ, but if the mounts are even close I think can make it work. He is even going to throw in a couple of 6 in lights that are mounted to it... bonus!
Moderator of Jeeps
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 3
From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
I have a rusted fuel line in my '88 Comanche, and I want to replace with braided steel. Anyone know the inner diameter of the sending and return lines?
Moderator of Jeeps
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 3
From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
i have just baught a 97 jeep cherokee and it has been standing for 4 years in a garage.
the owner said it would start on the button at christmas and the remotes where working fine back then.
when i got it the battery was knackered so i replaced it.
i have hade the remotes checked and they are giving a signal but they wont lock or unlock the doors.
the jeep starts and stops but thats it.
is there any way i can bypass the little black box under the dash???
i know this is a thatchem approved sytem and bypasses the original control unit that was fitted to the vehicle..
i am a VW commercial master tech so i know a bit about electrics but i have no wiring diagrams and have no idea about the systems jeep use so i would love some help and support from anyone who might know what to do...
kind regards to you all.
the owner said it would start on the button at christmas and the remotes where working fine back then.
when i got it the battery was knackered so i replaced it.
i have hade the remotes checked and they are giving a signal but they wont lock or unlock the doors.
the jeep starts and stops but thats it.
is there any way i can bypass the little black box under the dash???
i know this is a thatchem approved sytem and bypasses the original control unit that was fitted to the vehicle..
i am a VW commercial master tech so i know a bit about electrics but i have no wiring diagrams and have no idea about the systems jeep use so i would love some help and support from anyone who might know what to do...
kind regards to you all.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 730
Likes: 2
From: Joliet, Il
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: HO4.0 I6
I have painted my shocks for my incoming lift and was thinking about painting other components of my suspension as well.
For good adhesion for the paint should I sand with a low grit paper, then a fine. Prime and then Paint? (i have used spray paint from Autozone) Should I also add a clear coat to the finished product? I have yet to add a clear coat to my shocks. Just wondering what others have done in the past.
Or if it is a new component such as my new track bar, should I just paint right over it since it doesn't have any corrosion on it like my other parts?
For good adhesion for the paint should I sand with a low grit paper, then a fine. Prime and then Paint? (i have used spray paint from Autozone) Should I also add a clear coat to the finished product? I have yet to add a clear coat to my shocks. Just wondering what others have done in the past.
Or if it is a new component such as my new track bar, should I just paint right over it since it doesn't have any corrosion on it like my other parts?
Moderator of Jeeps
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 3
From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
I have painted my shocks for my incoming lift and was thinking about painting other components of my suspension as well.
For good adhesion for the paint should I sand with a low grit paper, then a fine. Prime and then Paint? (i have used spray paint from Autozone) Should I also add a clear coat to the finished product? I have yet to add a clear coat to my shocks. Just wondering what others have done in the past.
Or if it is a new component such as my new track bar, should I just paint right over it since it doesn't have any corrosion on it like my other parts?
For good adhesion for the paint should I sand with a low grit paper, then a fine. Prime and then Paint? (i have used spray paint from Autozone) Should I also add a clear coat to the finished product? I have yet to add a clear coat to my shocks. Just wondering what others have done in the past.
Or if it is a new component such as my new track bar, should I just paint right over it since it doesn't have any corrosion on it like my other parts?
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 730
Likes: 2
From: Joliet, Il
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: HO4.0 I6
Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Sand for adhesion, prime, paint. I don't know about what grit to use. For my parts, we used Rustoleum spray paint. Didn't use clearcoat cause it's gonna get scratched up, and it's easier to do touch-ups with just a color. It seemed to hold up well enough in the rollover that I'd use it again.

☠ CF Sheriff ☠

Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 15,197
Likes: 18
From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 12,692
Likes: 6
From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Originally Posted by dukie564
95 ft. lbs for the spring to frame bolts, 65 ft. lbs for u-bolts, 50 ft. lbs for spring pivot bolts (on shackle) per the FSM.
But for a softer ride, you can go with 80 at the main eyes (frame side) and 45 at the shackle side.
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,240
Likes: 0
From: Rocket Country MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
i'm planning on doin my vc gasket soon and was looking into some other things that may need replacing at the same time. I found that the bottom hard line off my t-stat housiing is just about junk, what exactly is the proper name for it and where can it be had? Its the 2nd smallish line on the housing that looks to thread into it. I just fear that moving it too much while doing the valve cover gasket will result in its failure. I cant think of any better way to explain where or what it is' but i need a new one... thanks
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,762
Likes: 0
From: Randoph ohio!
Year: 98
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Help, I wanna do high steer on my jeep.
Stock Dana 30 axle but I need to know the basics what I need where to get everything for a good price And what are your running/ any tips for me would be appreciated thanks
Stock Dana 30 axle but I need to know the basics what I need where to get everything for a good price And what are your running/ any tips for me would be appreciated thanks
Ok here is the question of the hour My 88 jeep charokee starts fine, idles up for about 30 seconds then idles so low it almost dies then idles back up it continues this cycle until the engine is atleast 210 degrees then it will straighten up and run great.... here is were this becomes a problem every time i shut it off it starts all over again rather it be for 2 minutes or 10 hours it still goes through the cycle of reving up and down. if i put it in gear it will sputter and stall until it reaches that temp again i have replaced the map sensor the upstream o2 sensor the iac and throttle position sensor also th crankshaft position sensor i cleaned the ground off by the engine oil dipstick and checked the voltage at the battery.... I am at a total loss here fellas i have read almost every forum entry even remotley resembleing my issue so far i have come up empty handed oh yeah and i seafoamed the dang thing so as you can tell i am about 700 dollars into this problem and i am just at the begining of my build
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 669
Likes: 0
From: Central Arkansas
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Originally Posted by steven.godwin
Ok here is the question of the hour My 88 jeep charokee starts fine, idles up for about 30 seconds then idles so low it almost dies then idles back up it continues this cycle until the engine is atleast 210 degrees then it will straighten up and run great.... here is were this becomes a problem every time i shut it off it starts all over again rather it be for 2 minutes or 10 hours it still goes through the cycle of reving up and down. if i put it in gear it will sputter and stall until it reaches that temp again i have replaced the map sensor the upstream o2 sensor the iac and throttle position sensor also th crankshaft position sensor i cleaned the ground off by the engine oil dipstick and checked the voltage at the battery.... I am at a total loss here fellas i have read almost every forum entry even remotley resembleing my issue so far i have come up empty handed oh yeah and i seafoamed the dang thing so as you can tell i am about 700 dollars into this problem and i am just at the begining of my build




