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Old Jun 14, 2012 | 11:24 AM
  #12226  
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Originally Posted by dukie564
nope just the gasket - but why do you need to take the throttle body off to clean the IAC? Just unscrew the screws and pull it out
I don't really but I am replacing the tps at the same time so I may as well just take it out and give it a good scrub down. It's not that much work to take it out.
Old Jun 14, 2012 | 11:47 AM
  #12227  
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Year: 1993
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Thanks man!
I just talked to the guy and it seems I read the posting wrong. It came off a 2000 XJ, but if the mounts are even close I think can make it work. He is even going to throw in a couple of 6 in lights that are mounted to it... bonus!
Old Jun 14, 2012 | 12:01 PM
  #12228  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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I have a rusted fuel line in my '88 Comanche, and I want to replace with braided steel. Anyone know the inner diameter of the sending and return lines?
Old Jun 14, 2012 | 12:45 PM
  #12229  
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From: Aberdeen, MD
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which part? the hard lines along the frame?
Old Jun 14, 2012 | 01:22 PM
  #12230  
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Originally Posted by dukie564
which part? the hard lines along the frame?
Yep. As far as I know, that's all I need. I know Advance sells straight hard lines, but I'd prefer braided so I don't have to worry about kinks or bends.
Old Jun 14, 2012 | 01:40 PM
  #12231  
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i have just baught a 97 jeep cherokee and it has been standing for 4 years in a garage.
the owner said it would start on the button at christmas and the remotes where working fine back then.
when i got it the battery was knackered so i replaced it.
i have hade the remotes checked and they are giving a signal but they wont lock or unlock the doors.
the jeep starts and stops but thats it.
is there any way i can bypass the little black box under the dash???
i know this is a thatchem approved sytem and bypasses the original control unit that was fitted to the vehicle..
i am a VW commercial master tech so i know a bit about electrics but i have no wiring diagrams and have no idea about the systems jeep use so i would love some help and support from anyone who might know what to do...
kind regards to you all.
Old Jun 14, 2012 | 01:47 PM
  #12232  
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From: Joliet, Il
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: HO4.0 I6
Default Painting suspension parts.

I have painted my shocks for my incoming lift and was thinking about painting other components of my suspension as well.

For good adhesion for the paint should I sand with a low grit paper, then a fine. Prime and then Paint? (i have used spray paint from Autozone) Should I also add a clear coat to the finished product? I have yet to add a clear coat to my shocks. Just wondering what others have done in the past.

Or if it is a new component such as my new track bar, should I just paint right over it since it doesn't have any corrosion on it like my other parts?
Old Jun 14, 2012 | 01:51 PM
  #12233  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
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Originally Posted by xj guy
I have painted my shocks for my incoming lift and was thinking about painting other components of my suspension as well.

For good adhesion for the paint should I sand with a low grit paper, then a fine. Prime and then Paint? (i have used spray paint from Autozone) Should I also add a clear coat to the finished product? I have yet to add a clear coat to my shocks. Just wondering what others have done in the past.

Or if it is a new component such as my new track bar, should I just paint right over it since it doesn't have any corrosion on it like my other parts?
Sand for adhesion, prime, paint. I don't know about what grit to use. For my parts, we used Rustoleum spray paint. Didn't use clearcoat cause it's gonna get scratched up, and it's easier to do touch-ups with just a color. It seemed to hold up well enough in the rollover that I'd use it again.
Old Jun 14, 2012 | 02:02 PM
  #12234  
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From: Joliet, Il
Year: 1996
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Engine: HO4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown

Sand for adhesion, prime, paint. I don't know about what grit to use. For my parts, we used Rustoleum spray paint. Didn't use clearcoat cause it's gonna get scratched up, and it's easier to do touch-ups with just a color. It seemed to hold up well enough in the rollover that I'd use it again.
Okay, that's what I wanted to hear. An rustoleum is the brand I was using as well. Just couldn't think about it off the top of my head. If anybody has any advice on the grits I'd appreciate it. I can't picture it bein that big of a deal but you never know. I have some 40 grit and 180 laying around.
Old Jun 14, 2012 | 02:02 PM
  #12235  
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From: Aberdeen, MD
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Yep. As far as I know, that's all I need. I know Advance sells straight hard lines, but I'd prefer braided so I don't have to worry about kinks or bends.
5/16" ID I believe
Old Jun 14, 2012 | 05:31 PM
  #12236  
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
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Originally Posted by dukie564

95 ft. lbs for the spring to frame bolts, 65 ft. lbs for u-bolts, 50 ft. lbs for spring pivot bolts (on shackle) per the FSM.

But for a softer ride, you can go with 80 at the main eyes (frame side) and 45 at the shackle side.
Thanks dukie
Old Jun 14, 2012 | 06:18 PM
  #12237  
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i'm planning on doin my vc gasket soon and was looking into some other things that may need replacing at the same time. I found that the bottom hard line off my t-stat housiing is just about junk, what exactly is the proper name for it and where can it be had? Its the 2nd smallish line on the housing that looks to thread into it. I just fear that moving it too much while doing the valve cover gasket will result in its failure. I cant think of any better way to explain where or what it is' but i need a new one... thanks
Old Jun 14, 2012 | 07:22 PM
  #12238  
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From: Randoph ohio!
Year: 98
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Help, I wanna do high steer on my jeep.
Stock Dana 30 axle but I need to know the basics what I need where to get everything for a good price And what are your running/ any tips for me would be appreciated thanks
Old Jun 14, 2012 | 10:01 PM
  #12239  
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Ok here is the question of the hour My 88 jeep charokee starts fine, idles up for about 30 seconds then idles so low it almost dies then idles back up it continues this cycle until the engine is atleast 210 degrees then it will straighten up and run great.... here is were this becomes a problem every time i shut it off it starts all over again rather it be for 2 minutes or 10 hours it still goes through the cycle of reving up and down. if i put it in gear it will sputter and stall until it reaches that temp again i have replaced the map sensor the upstream o2 sensor the iac and throttle position sensor also th crankshaft position sensor i cleaned the ground off by the engine oil dipstick and checked the voltage at the battery.... I am at a total loss here fellas i have read almost every forum entry even remotley resembleing my issue so far i have come up empty handed oh yeah and i seafoamed the dang thing so as you can tell i am about 700 dollars into this problem and i am just at the begining of my build
Old Jun 15, 2012 | 09:34 AM
  #12240  
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From: Central Arkansas
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by steven.godwin
Ok here is the question of the hour My 88 jeep charokee starts fine, idles up for about 30 seconds then idles so low it almost dies then idles back up it continues this cycle until the engine is atleast 210 degrees then it will straighten up and run great.... here is were this becomes a problem every time i shut it off it starts all over again rather it be for 2 minutes or 10 hours it still goes through the cycle of reving up and down. if i put it in gear it will sputter and stall until it reaches that temp again i have replaced the map sensor the upstream o2 sensor the iac and throttle position sensor also th crankshaft position sensor i cleaned the ground off by the engine oil dipstick and checked the voltage at the battery.... I am at a total loss here fellas i have read almost every forum entry even remotley resembleing my issue so far i have come up empty handed oh yeah and i seafoamed the dang thing so as you can tell i am about 700 dollars into this problem and i am just at the begining of my build
Coolant temp sensor? Could be causing a fuel mixture issue if giving false readings?



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