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Jun 13, 2012 | 12:18 PM

#12196

dukie564

☠ CF Sheriff ☠

Joined: Nov 2009

Posts: 15,197

Likes: 18

From: Aberdeen, MD

Year: 1995

Model: Cherokee

Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts

If you mounted it with the gutter mounts, you'll be fine

Jun 13, 2012 | 12:31 PM

#12197

darth_Edward

Newbie

Joined: May 2012

Posts: 6

Likes: 0

From: Miami

Year: 1999

Model: Cherokee

Engine: 4.0 L

Even with a tire?

Jun 13, 2012 | 01:13 PM

#12198

dukie564

☠ CF Sheriff ☠

Joined: Nov 2009

Posts: 15,197

Likes: 18

From: Aberdeen, MD

Year: 1995

Model: Cherokee

Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts

yea. Gutter mounts can support a lot of weight since it's the structural seam of the vehicle.

Jun 13, 2012 | 01:51 PM

#12199

taxidave

Member

Joined: Jun 2010

Posts: 111

Likes: 1

From: Walnut Creek, CA

Year: 1991

Model: Cherokee

Engine: 4.0 liter

Quote:

Originally Posted by taxidave

Okay, yesterday I got on the freeway and when I was accelerating to about 60-65mph my xj felt like someone (the night before) had put a drive shaft limiter on it. The drivetrain noise increased, not a grinding or clanking sound, just a louder whirring noise as if there was something binding somewhere. If I stayed below 60mph there was no sound or resistance. I shifted to full-time 4wd and the sound and resistance went away until I reached 75mph. Around town at lower speeds everything seems normal. I changed the tranny and t-case fluids (no debris in old fluid). The rear diff was a little low but after topping off the same thing happened. Any ideas? Stock 91 XJ limited 4.0L, AW4, NP242, D35 rear diff,

Update: I went underneath to check the drive shaft for any play in the diff and there wasn't any. I did find a leak in the rear seal of the diff and the exhaust pipe near it has a lot of carbon like the gear oil was spraying on to it and burning off. It wasn't missing much oil since I topped it off. I guess I'll have to open it up and see if anything is wrong there.

Jun 13, 2012 | 04:34 PM

#12200

Juan Rabago

Newbie

Joined: Jun 2012

Posts: 7

Likes: 0

From: San Antonio TX

Year: 1990

Model: Cherokee

Engine: 4.0

Rear Brakes

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nperryman

I don't think the rubbing sound would be caused by your rear brakes while you're turning. Where is the sound coming from? Welcome btw

Thanks. The sound is coming from the right rear tire. sorry if Im responding wrong, still trying to get the hang of the forum.

Jun 13, 2012 | 05:05 PM

#12201

Nperryman

CF Veteran

Joined: Dec 2010

Posts: 1,246

Likes: 1

From: Missouri

Year: 1998

Model: Cherokee

Engine: I6 4.0 L

Quote:

Originally Posted by Juan Rabago

Thanks. The sound is coming from the right rear tire. sorry if Im responding wrong, still trying to get the hang of the forum.

You responded correctly. Do you have a rear locker? I still don't know why the rubbing would only happen while you are turning if it's your rear tire. Maybe someone else can chime in.

Jun 13, 2012 | 05:54 PM

#12202

avision

Member

Joined: Apr 2012

Posts: 181

Likes: 0

From: Phoenix, AZ

Year: 1994

Model: Cherokee

Engine: 4.0HO

Quote:

Originally Posted by Outlaw Star

Did you plug or reroute the vacuum lines for the ducts?

I didn't plug or reroute anything, I just removed the condenser, compressor and hoses going from the compressor to block sticking out of the firewall. So what do I need t plug?

Jun 13, 2012 | 07:22 PM

#12203

bhennessee1

CF Veteran

Joined: Apr 2011

Posts: 3,493

Likes: 0

From: Chickamauga Ga.

Year: 2000

Model: Cherokee

Engine: 4.0

Quote:

Originally Posted by zimbobwye

Is it a new, "new" radio? Typically all new radios have a built-in capacitor, which eliminates that noise you're hearing. What you're hearing is a type of interference which actually comes from your alternator spinning faster as your engine accelerates.

Just bought it from wallyworld last week it only happens when I am using my iPod

Jun 13, 2012 | 07:24 PM

#12204

bhennessee1

CF Veteran

Joined: Apr 2011

Posts: 3,493

Likes: 0

From: Chickamauga Ga.

Year: 2000

Model: Cherokee

Engine: 4.0

Quote:

Originally Posted by odgreen89on35s

Also look at your plug wires. Most say interference free. If not its a good place to start lol

Spark plug wires or radio wires?

Jun 13, 2012 | 07:27 PM

#12205

Juan Rabago

Newbie

Joined: Jun 2012

Posts: 7

Likes: 0

From: San Antonio TX

Year: 1990

Model: Cherokee

Engine: 4.0

Rear Brakes

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nperryman

You responded correctly. Do you have a rear locker? I still don't know why the rubbing would only happen while you are turning if it's your rear tire. Maybe someone else can chime in.

When I started to take off the old brakes, I noticed there was more wear and tear on the top front of the right rear brakes. do you know if that came from the E-brake being used to much. maybe. I do not have lockers

Last edited by Juan Rabago; Jun 13, 2012 at 07:31 PM.

Jun 13, 2012 | 08:38 PM

#12206

ol"blue

CF Veteran

Joined: Mar 2009

Posts: 28,068

Likes: 6

From: Tenn. and Mich.

Year: 2004

Model: Grand Cherokee

Engine: 4.7L V8

Quote:

Originally Posted by Carruthers

'98 Cherokee Sport 5 speed v6 4.0

recently had the wires ripped out of my o2 sensor after the cat converter. a short time after i replaced it with a new o2 sensor (check engine light still on, never reset), it started bucking in lower gears. it feels like a fuel problem, but it idles fine.

i've tried to do a self-test to see what codes come up, not sure if i did it right. when i press the trip/odometer button, turn the key "on" and let go of the button, "2.3" shows up for a second (different from my tripometer reading).

any ideas on the problem? or a way to bring up the p-codes that i haven't tried?

thanks.

Welcome to CF. If you go to the auto parts store they can check the codes for you, and reset it too for free.

Jun 13, 2012 | 08:53 PM

#12207

Carruthers

Newbie

Joined: Jun 2012

Posts: 5

Likes: 0

Year: 1998

Model: Cherokee

Engine: v6 4.0

Quote:

Originally Posted by ol"blue

Welcome to CF. If you go to the auto parts store they can check the codes for you, and reset it too for free.

thanks!

getting it to an auto store is a bit difficult, was hoping to do it myself if at all possible..

any more help would be appreciated, and any more info you need let me know.

thanks again.

Jun 13, 2012 | 09:14 PM

#12208

bhennessee1

CF Veteran

Joined: Apr 2011

Posts: 3,493

Likes: 0

From: Chickamauga Ga.

Year: 2000

Model: Cherokee

Engine: 4.0

Quote:

Originally Posted by Carruthers

thanks!

getting it to an auto store is a bit difficult, was hoping to do it myself if at all possible..

any more help would be appreciated, and any more info you need let me know.

thanks again.

You can buy a scan tool for like 50 dollars, the same one the autoparts store uses.

Jun 13, 2012 | 09:33 PM

#12209

Carruthers

Newbie

Joined: Jun 2012

Posts: 5

Likes: 0

Year: 1998

Model: Cherokee

Engine: v6 4.0

Quote:

Originally Posted by bhennessee1

You can buy a scan tool for like 50 dollars, the same one the autoparts store uses.

thanks. i think i'll try that. i'll get back to you guys with the codes, if i can't figure it out.

Jun 13, 2012 | 09:36 PM

#12210

ol"blue

CF Veteran

Joined: Mar 2009

Posts: 28,068

Likes: 6

From: Tenn. and Mich.

Year: 2004

Model: Grand Cherokee

Engine: 4.7L V8

Quote:

Originally Posted by Carruthers

thanks!

getting it to an auto store is a bit difficult, was hoping to do it myself if at all possible..

any more help would be appreciated, and any more info you need let me know.

thanks again.

If you just want to get it running you can try unhooking both battery cables, then hold them together for 15 seconds to drain any residual charge from the PCM. This will erase any trouble codes and reset it and place it in learning mode. Reconnect the cables, then if possible, drive it until it learns the parameters and acts normal again. Usually 5-10 miles.