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XJ Ask the Question Thread
My 1990 was doing the same thing. It was the Throttle position switch on the Throttle body. The little bar that rides on the linkage some how got under the TB linkage and it was not rotating with the throttle body linkage. I bent it back into shape and put it where it was supposed to go and it started shifting correctly again. Also, look/listen for vacuum leaks, sometimes that will cause a problem too.
i have a weber on it tho so theres not all the linkage like the stock carb
Hey guys, I'm finally getting into the task of replacing the headlamp switch connector due to random occurrences of no or intermittent marker-lamps and/or headlamps. See a pic of what I have to do. I left the knee and kick panels out of the Jeep because I want to cut the existing wires and splice-in the new (in pic, black with 12" pigtailed wires) connector tomorrow. I replaced the headlamp switch today just to see if lamp functions would improve but they didn't, so this data confirms the problem is in the connector/wires, and I now have a known good spare headlamp switch (big whoop! more stuff.). Okay, I'm getting to the point...
What's the optimal type of connection to use when splicing the new connector into the harness (choices are: butt-splice crimps, twist caps, solder-sleeves or some combination thereof - else please state another)?
What's the optimal type of connection to use when splicing the new connector into the harness (choices are: butt-splice crimps, twist caps, solder-sleeves or some combination thereof - else please state another)?
Last edited by Cherryokee; May 11, 2011 at 07:11 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 12,692
Likes: 6
From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Hey guys, I'm finally getting into the task of replacing the headlamp switch connector due to random occurrences of no or intermittent marker-lamps and/or headlamps. See a pic of what I have to do. I left the knee and kick panels out of the Jeep because I want to cut the existing wires and splice-in the new (in pic, black with 12" pigtailed wires) connector tomorrow. I replaced the headlamp switch today just to see if lamp functions would improve but they didn't, so this data confirms the problem is in the connector/wires, and I now have a known good spare headlamp switch (big whoop! more stuff.). Okay, I'm getting to the point...
What's the optimal type of connection to use when splicing the new connector into the harness (choices are: butt-splice crimps, twist caps, solder-sleeves or some combination thereof - else please state another)?
What's the optimal type of connection to use when splicing the new connector into the harness (choices are: butt-splice crimps, twist caps, solder-sleeves or some combination thereof - else please state another)?
i have a 1996 jeep cherokee 2 door.it didnt come with ac? and i want to install air conditioning.what would be the best route to go? my limit is 400$ if anyone can help it would be great.need the ac for those humid 100 degree days.car has heat no ac parts whats so ever.car has 45k orignal so its worth putting it in to me.runs like new
haha i bought a new ignition lock cylinder months ago and still haven't even considered installing it
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 12,692
Likes: 6
From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Originally Posted by Cherryokee
that's why i procrastinated it for almost 8 months - since i bought the parts. i took one look and thought i'd wait til i was doing the a/c evaporator. figured it would be easier with the dash removed. now i'm paying for all the procrastinating.
other than that any type of repair that involves removing the dash just sucks
Originally Posted by vowbeachbum
i have a 1996 jeep cherokee 2 door.it didnt come with ac? and i want to install air conditioning.what would be the best route to go? my limit is 400$ if anyone can help it would be great.need the ac for those humid 100 degree days.car has heat no ac parts whats so ever.car has 45k orignal so its worth putting it in to me.runs like new
or make half doors. Lol
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 848
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Is it true that the Cherokee only comes with a 20 gallon gas tank? When I bringing needle to just above the E I can only put about 15.8-16.0 gallons in. Is my needle off and it will actually go below the E mark?
Sent from my iPhone using CherokeeFM
Sent from my iPhone using CherokeeFM
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 12,692
Likes: 6
From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
yea 20 for the later years at least. When im on E and fill up i only get 17 gals at the pump but that because theres alot of gas still at bottom of the tank.
Originally Posted by Cherryokee
Hey guys, I'm finally getting into the task of replacing the headlamp switch connector due to random occurrences of no or intermittent marker-lamps and/or headlamps. See a pic of what I have to do. I left the knee and kick panels out of the Jeep because I want to cut the existing wires and splice-in the new (in pic, black with 12" pigtailed wires) connector tomorrow. I replaced the headlamp switch today just to see if lamp functions would improve but they didn't, so this data confirms the problem is in the connector/wires, and I now have a known good spare headlamp switch (big whoop! more stuff.). Okay, I'm getting to the point...
What's the optimal type of connection to use when splicing the new connector into the harness (choices are: butt-splice crimps, twist caps, solder-sleeves or some combination thereof - else please state another)?
What's the optimal type of connection to use when splicing the new connector into the harness (choices are: butt-splice crimps, twist caps, solder-sleeves or some combination thereof - else please state another)?
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 12,692
Likes: 6
From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO







