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Old May 11, 2011 | 09:39 AM
  #4696  
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Originally Posted by Modrod
My 1990 was doing the same thing. It was the Throttle position switch on the Throttle body. The little bar that rides on the linkage some how got under the TB linkage and it was not rotating with the throttle body linkage. I bent it back into shape and put it where it was supposed to go and it started shifting correctly again. Also, look/listen for vacuum leaks, sometimes that will cause a problem too.

i have a weber on it tho so theres not all the linkage like the stock carb
Old May 11, 2011 | 06:57 PM
  #4697  
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Default Optimum Electrical Connection?

Hey guys, I'm finally getting into the task of replacing the headlamp switch connector due to random occurrences of no or intermittent marker-lamps and/or headlamps. See a pic of what I have to do. I left the knee and kick panels out of the Jeep because I want to cut the existing wires and splice-in the new (in pic, black with 12" pigtailed wires) connector tomorrow. I replaced the headlamp switch today just to see if lamp functions would improve but they didn't, so this data confirms the problem is in the connector/wires, and I now have a known good spare headlamp switch (big whoop! more stuff.). Okay, I'm getting to the point...

What's the optimal type of connection to use when splicing the new connector into the harness (choices are: butt-splice crimps, twist caps, solder-sleeves or some combination thereof - else please state another)?
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Last edited by Cherryokee; May 11, 2011 at 07:11 PM.
Old May 11, 2011 | 07:42 PM
  #4698  
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Originally Posted by Cherryokee
Hey guys, I'm finally getting into the task of replacing the headlamp switch connector due to random occurrences of no or intermittent marker-lamps and/or headlamps. See a pic of what I have to do. I left the knee and kick panels out of the Jeep because I want to cut the existing wires and splice-in the new (in pic, black with 12" pigtailed wires) connector tomorrow. I replaced the headlamp switch today just to see if lamp functions would improve but they didn't, so this data confirms the problem is in the connector/wires, and I now have a known good spare headlamp switch (big whoop! more stuff.). Okay, I'm getting to the point...

What's the optimal type of connection to use when splicing the new connector into the harness (choices are: butt-splice crimps, twist caps, solder-sleeves or some combination thereof - else please state another)?
i hate that switch
Old May 11, 2011 | 07:53 PM
  #4699  
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch
i hate that switch
that's why i procrastinated it for almost 8 months - since i bought the parts. i took one look and thought i'd wait til i was doing the a/c evaporator. figured it would be easier with the dash removed. now i'm paying for all the procrastinating.
Old May 11, 2011 | 10:07 PM
  #4700  
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i have a 1996 jeep cherokee 2 door.it didnt come with ac? and i want to install air conditioning.what would be the best route to go? my limit is 400$ if anyone can help it would be great.need the ac for those humid 100 degree days.car has heat no ac parts whats so ever.car has 45k orignal so its worth putting it in to me.runs like new
Old May 11, 2011 | 10:47 PM
  #4701  
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Originally Posted by Cherryokee
that's why i procrastinated it for almost 8 months - since i bought the parts. i took one look and thought i'd wait til i was doing the a/c evaporator. figured it would be easier with the dash removed. now i'm paying for all the procrastinating.
haha i bought a new ignition lock cylinder months ago and still haven't even considered installing it
Old May 11, 2011 | 11:05 PM
  #4702  
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Originally Posted by Cherryokee

that's why i procrastinated it for almost 8 months - since i bought the parts. i took one look and thought i'd wait til i was doing the a/c evaporator. figured it would be easier with the dash removed. now i'm paying for all the procrastinating.
The a/c evap has to be one of the worst repairs ever. Between taking everything apart and hoping not to get a bunch of coolant everywhere. Well least my ac works now other than that any type of repair that involves removing the dash just sucks
Old May 11, 2011 | 11:52 PM
  #4703  
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Originally Posted by vowbeachbum
i have a 1996 jeep cherokee 2 door.it didnt come with ac? and i want to install air conditioning.what would be the best route to go? my limit is 400$ if anyone can help it would be great.need the ac for those humid 100 degree days.car has heat no ac parts whats so ever.car has 45k orignal so its worth putting it in to me.runs like new
I'd just remove the doors. or make half doors. Lol
Old May 12, 2011 | 09:34 AM
  #4704  
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Is it true that the Cherokee only comes with a 20 gallon gas tank? When I bringing needle to just above the E I can only put about 15.8-16.0 gallons in. Is my needle off and it will actually go below the E mark?

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Old May 12, 2011 | 09:46 AM
  #4705  
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Originally Posted by Skyline
Is it true that the Cherokee only comes with a 20 gallon gas tank? When I bringing needle to just above the E I can only put about 15.8-16.0 gallons in. Is my needle off and it will actually go below the E mark?

Sent from my iPhone using CherokeeFM
yea 20 for the later years at least. When im on E and fill up i only get 17 gals at the pump but that because theres alot of gas still at bottom of the tank.
Old May 12, 2011 | 10:36 AM
  #4706  
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Yeah I almost had mine on E and I filled up with $65 and got 17.5 gallons.
Old May 12, 2011 | 10:37 AM
  #4707  
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Originally Posted by Jeep95

I'd just remove the doors. or make half doors. Lol
X2 to do it right would be way over your budget. Better off finding one with A/C.
Old May 12, 2011 | 10:43 AM
  #4708  
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Originally Posted by Cherryokee
Hey guys, I'm finally getting into the task of replacing the headlamp switch connector due to random occurrences of no or intermittent marker-lamps and/or headlamps. See a pic of what I have to do. I left the knee and kick panels out of the Jeep because I want to cut the existing wires and splice-in the new (in pic, black with 12" pigtailed wires) connector tomorrow. I replaced the headlamp switch today just to see if lamp functions would improve but they didn't, so this data confirms the problem is in the connector/wires, and I now have a known good spare headlamp switch (big whoop! more stuff.). Okay, I'm getting to the point...

What's the optimal type of connection to use when splicing the new connector into the harness (choices are: butt-splice crimps, twist caps, solder-sleeves or some combination thereof - else please state another)?
At the dealership I worked at it was always solder joint sleeves. Less likely to corrode.
Old May 12, 2011 | 11:35 AM
  #4709  
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Originally Posted by Cnwxj
At the dealership I worked at it was always solder joint sleeves. Less likely to corrode.
soldering is the only way electric repairs should be done on an xj any other way and they eventually come loose
Old May 12, 2011 | 12:52 PM
  #4710  
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Long story, only pic I have of the Axle. Can you tell what it is? I'm thinking 8.25 seems squared on the bottom. Anyone?

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