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Old May 3, 2012 | 02:46 PM
  #11341  
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Originally Posted by Modrod
I looked at my newer Tcase and you are right about it. I thought I had seen these with a nut on the end of the yoke where it was attached to the output shaft.I know the SYE's have that.
When I have been to the Upull it place and read articles I thought I had seen it was bolted to the output shaft.
So, if it is not clipped or bolted to the output shaft, when you take the dshaft off how does it stay on if you drive it with the front axle? It seems it could work it's way off and fly off without anything retaining it.
The yoke comes off with the drive shaft. You just undo the straps on the rear axle yoke and the slip yoke and drive shaft slide out. Sorry for being kind of an *******, but you know how frustrating it can be when you know you are right and someone is telling you that you are wrong.
Old May 3, 2012 | 04:51 PM
  #11342  
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Originally Posted by dukie564
That's your transfer case for your 4-wheel drive. Looks like it's leaving between the case halves. You can't check the level from the tranny dipstick though...there are two big hex plugs on the back of the case (visible in your picture). Take the TOP one out and stick your finger inside to check the fluid level - should be at or slightly below the bottom of the top fill hole.
Thanks. I looked it up on the two major parts stores websites and they don't have any gaskets for it. The closest they have is a "seal" which is more of a round thing which I'm guessing goes somewhere inside.

I have a couple kinds of RTV silicone "gasket maker" here, one that's supposed to resist oil and one that's for high temps. Would either of those work on something like this for the gasket between the two halves?
Old May 3, 2012 | 05:11 PM
  #11343  
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Originally Posted by lucknuts
Thanks. I looked it up on the two major parts stores websites and they don't have any gaskets for it. The closest they have is a "seal" which is more of a round thing which I'm guessing goes somewhere inside.

I have a couple kinds of RTV silicone "gasket maker" here, one that's supposed to resist oil and one that's for high temps. Would either of those work on something like this for the gasket between the two halves?
I'd use RTV "ultra black" - the oil resistant one
Old May 3, 2012 | 05:14 PM
  #11344  
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I stopped and said i was wrong and you were right. It is your language and attitude that prompted me into saying what did. I was mistaken and admitted it. And admitted i don't know everything. I thought i was correct or i wouldn't have commented on it. I'm only saying i have 35 years of experience because you are acting like i don't have any experience. I thought you were mistaken but it was me. So i apologize for that.



Originally Posted by bhennessee1
Im done with this argument, but i want to tell you since you said we all need to learn, which i totaly agree with that the yoke is not bolted to the output shaft at all, it slips rite off. just like the old ones. I dont think i know everythink, but in the case i know exactly what im talking about and clearly you dont. The fact that you have 35 years of experience as a mechanic doesnt mean that you know more than me or the other people who were trying to inform you that the newer transfer cases do indeed have a slipyoke about this particular subject.
Old May 3, 2012 | 05:27 PM
  #11345  
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Actually you were polite. I was wrong and thought i had seen a nut on the end of the output shaft attaching the yoke. The other guy got an attitude and i admitted i was wrong but he was getting a little excited. Lol



Originally Posted by bhennessee1
The yoke comes off with the drive shaft. You just undo the straps on the rear axle yoke and the slip yoke and drive shaft slide out. Sorry for being kind of an *******, but you know how frustrating it can be when you know you are right and someone is telling you that you are wrong.
Old May 3, 2012 | 05:32 PM
  #11346  
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Lol guys. Yes the post-96 ones are slip yokes too. They changed from ATF leaking out of the transfer case to lube the slip yoke to the t-casr being completely sealed. The newer style ouput shaft has to be manually greased, and to keep the crap out there is a black rubber boot covering the slip yoke, tied to the back of the U-joit yoke, making it look like 1 piece and preventing it from falling off when you pull the prop shaft.
Old May 3, 2012 | 06:44 PM
  #11347  
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Originally Posted by dukie564
I'd use RTV "ultra black" - the oil resistant one
Thanks!
Old May 3, 2012 | 07:35 PM
  #11348  
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So I noticed my trackbar is loose at the top mounting bracket, it moves way out of place when turning the wheel left and right...is there some way I can get it tight without having to buy a new bracket?
Old May 3, 2012 | 11:17 PM
  #11349  
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Originally Posted by dukie564

I'd use RTV "ultra black" - the oil resistant one
Dukie! You must change your Pic back! It's just not the same!!
Old May 3, 2012 | 11:42 PM
  #11350  
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Originally Posted by zombie jeep101

Dukie! You must change your Pic back! It's just not the same!!
Been bothering me too haha
Old May 4, 2012 | 12:13 AM
  #11351  
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Originally Posted by 1plunk

Been bothering me too haha
Yea me three i didn even realize it was you for a whole, i just look at people's little pic most of the time.
Old May 4, 2012 | 06:27 AM
  #11352  
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Originally Posted by dukie564
The parts catalog labels that as just a "grommet" for the brake booster check valve, so I don't think it's important if it's cracked or not. If you feel the need to buy a new one you probably could from a dealer or from factorycryslerparts.com. Part # is J3208510.
You are indeed correct it is the grommet for the brake check valve. However it can be very important. If this is allowing air to bypass then it is a problem. That hose coming off the check valve also creates the main vacuum for the engine it also creates vacuum for your Vacuum Brake Booster, hence the name. Loose vacuum, loose your brakes, and engine runs like crap. The part runs a couple of dollars at the local parts store or the dealer. Just replace it
Old May 4, 2012 | 09:01 AM
  #11353  
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Quick one, 1989 dies while driving fine, now cranks but won't start classic CPs gone bad right?

Last edited by Kuro89; May 4, 2012 at 09:04 AM.
Old May 4, 2012 | 09:37 AM
  #11354  
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Does the bolt for the front brake lines where it connects to the caliper have to be threaded a certain way for the holes to line up, or do I just tighten it up?
Old May 4, 2012 | 09:51 AM
  #11355  
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Originally Posted by bhennessee1

Yea me three i didn even realize it was you for a whole, i just look at people's little pic most of the time.
Yep i'm a visual person, pictures are better than words

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