Definitely sounds like a leak from your vacuum ball. Look behind(inside) the passenger's side of the bumper. Good luck, keep us posted.

 

Ya I've grown up with the same wisdom lol. I'm gonna take them apart and put grease on the back side where the pads touch the inner part of the wheel. Not the drum

 

Ya thats where I would start.

 

Has anyone ever tried Bars rear main seal restorer? I Tried it and it didn't work but the reason I'm posting is I am getting a little coffee color oil on the tip of my dip stick. I was wondering if anyone else experienced this after using Bars. If not I guess I'll check my head gasket.

 

In my experience any sort of leak fixer ruins more than it helps, to be on the safe side I would change the oil
changing the rear main is really not that hard, its daunting before you get into it but once you're in its no big deal.

 

That's what she said.... Haha

On topic: the only patch I would consider is for a heater core, just because they are a PITA to replace (if it doesn't fix it your back where you started... and you replace it anyway).

But with the engine, I wouldn't mess around with that stuff, just do it right the first time and don't risk an unforeseen chemical reaction that could be harmful your engine.

 

Does anyone have a detailed list of what all you need to swap the renix cooling system to a newer system

 

If your rad is still good you could splice a radiator cap into the big hose similar to how the durango is setup, other people have more info on this but it is an option then you will just need an overflow tank.
but for the complete switch you will need the radiator overflow and heater control valve I think.

 

okay so i was at the parts store today and the guy told be since its the 2nd pump ive gone through the pump isnt the issue its something else. well duh. so he saiys its the fuel pressure regulator more than likely and not being home and having the internet i bought his bull**** and he ordered one, havent paid yet, but get home and google it only to find out that the regulator is PART OF THE ASSEMBLY i was in the process of replacing to begin with. so should i just continue on and get the bosch pump assembly? any other ideas as far as what my issue could be? has plenty of pressure when started and ran for about 100yds-1/4 mile or so depending on what it wants to do. then after that it sputters and wont rev and tries to die as if its lost all the pressure or ran out of gas. Its my DD and im in one of those sticky situations, any help would be appreciated.

 

'92 Cherokee, Automatic, 4.0L, 4x4: sputters, chokes, looses power but doesn't die (at least not yet). Its as if its not getting gas. I have to run 98 Octane along with the red fuel stabilizer from Stabil just to keep it from sputtering and loosing power.

Ok so far i have changed the fuel filter, and jumped the fuel ballast resistor but no change.

Any ideas? Please help

 

i have a 1999 xj sport, auto, 4.0l. back story first, it was only 28 outside when this happened, it was being drivin be my mom, it started to smoke and stalled, so she started it back up and drove, stalled again, started it up and drove it while smoking, than the rear drive shaft u-joint failed, now the jeep wont start. now it will crank just fine, and you can smell fuel, but i no that coolent got into the intake. so i am going to get new plugs today, i pulled of the throtal body and cleaned all the sencors off. but in the intake there is a black brown sludge, only a bit in the low points. i did replace the thermastate over the summer and flush the system, but not a new water pump or rad. and before i did that is over heated twice, but was shut off right away. so i dont know if the u-joint is realated, but any help on getting it started would be great. thanks.

 

Okay the 13mm 12 point worked for my hubs after a little heat was applied so thanks guys. But once i got these out i see this huge nut holding the center of the hub on. Well i dont have a socket big enough. The biggest i have is a 1 1/4" si im gonna have to go buy one to take take nut off. Does anybody know what size i need?

 

Nvm just figured it out its a 36mm socket. Just for all those who wondered. And it needs to be torqed to 175lbs

 

Where can I buy replacement leaf packs for stock height? Looking for one that will last and not sag. Plan to do a 2" shackle and spacer in the future as well.

 

Quadratec.com 99 dollars per leaf pack