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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 08:36 AM
  #8086  
jeepin4jesus's Avatar
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From: Fort Wayne, IN
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L 6 cylinder
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Originally Posted by Bassfishertim2015
I already know the answer to this but I wanna see what's some of you guys think. Have an 89 lifted 3 inches 31 mud ATS. When even it rains or my brakes get wet and let it sit for a while I go to drive and hit the brakes and my driver rear locks up way to hard. This isn't gonna be good come winter lol. Is it rust on the brakes or????
Mine does this to. But after a sec of driving they are fine.
Old Nov 23, 2011 | 09:43 AM
  #8087  
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Model: Cherokee
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Trans leaking from pan pretty bad yet I check the fluid idling in neutral while hot and get a reading about an inch over max every time. What gives?
Old Nov 23, 2011 | 10:33 AM
  #8088  
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From: Boston
Year: 2000
Engine: 4.7L
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Originally Posted by JerseyTrueBlue
Trans leaking from pan pretty bad yet I check the fluid idling in neutral while hot and get a reading about an inch over max every time. What gives?
Is it over-filled? That could also cause it to leak...
Old Nov 23, 2011 | 10:40 AM
  #8089  
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From: Roscoe, IL
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L 242 Power Tech I6
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Originally Posted by Bassfishertim2015
I already know the answer to this but I wanna see what's some of you guys think. Have an 89 lifted 3 inches 31 mud ATS. When even it rains or my brakes get wet and let it sit for a while I go to drive and hit the brakes and my driver rear locks up way to hard. This isn't gonna be good come winter lol. Is it rust on the brakes or????
I think they all do it.. I just make sure to pump my breaks a few times while it's warming-up.. as long as I do that, no sticking occurs.
Old Nov 23, 2011 | 10:43 AM
  #8090  
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From: Clayton, NC
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.6L I6 Stroker with port matched +99 intake and 62mm TB
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Originally Posted by zimbobwye
I think they all do it.. I just make sure to pump my breaks a few times while it's warming-up.. as long as I do that, no sticking occurs.
x2. This works for me on my '88 and '96.

Old Nov 23, 2011 | 11:15 AM
  #8091  
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From: Newman, Lake WA
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 cold air
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Hmm at least I know I'm not alone lol
Old Nov 23, 2011 | 11:51 AM
  #8092  
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From: Rockford illinois
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: h.o. 4.0
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch
Low fluid will cause it to shift harder and possible grind the wheels but that's also the easiest thin to check. Worst case you'll have to open the TC but well take it one step at a time

so i got ahold of the po and he said he never adjusted the tc linkage when he added the tc drop, do you think thats the problem? he said it worked just fine before the drop and seems like a good guy so im guna try to adjust it and see what happens even though i went under it to check it out and the allen to adjust it is stripped out so looks like some good ole vice grips and a new bolt are in order! i sure hope its just the linkage, ive come to find out that it could also be the tc chain is that a possibility? when i 1st tested the 4wd it threw the boot and now looks like thiss... i got .
Attached Thumbnails XJ Ask the Question Thread-driveshaft.jpg  
Old Nov 23, 2011 | 09:19 PM
  #8093  
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From: Jersey
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Exclamation Fuel lines

1994 Jeep Cherokee XJ 4.0L

Have to replace the fuel lines that run from the metal fuel lines to the fuel rail with quick connect fittings. I have the fittings ( one 3/8" and one 5/16" ) and I have some sae30r6kx 5/16" fuel line. The quick connect fittings fit in nice and snug and was able to use some clamps there and at the metal fuel lines.

So my question is:
Is this fuel line ok to use? it is much thicker than the lines that were there but, i can't seem to find that type of fuel line anywhere.

Primed it a few times and no leaks but i am still worried. First time messing with any fuel system. ( scares me lol )

Thanks in advance!
Old Nov 23, 2011 | 09:36 PM
  #8094  
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From: IL
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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I'm going to replace my alternator soon because it's squeeling. Should I replace the belt at the same time too? Belt looks ok, but I'm not sure how old it is.

Thanks in advance!
Old Nov 23, 2011 | 09:59 PM
  #8095  
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Originally Posted by Cherryokee
Is it over-filled? That could also cause it to leak...

Doubt it since the last service it had done was at the dealership but it could be a possibility. I don't know this vehicle as much as I'd like to since it's my fathers old truck.
Old Nov 23, 2011 | 10:35 PM
  #8096  
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
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Originally Posted by JerseyTrueBlue

Doubt it since the last service it had done was at the dealership but it could be a possibility. I don't know this vehicle as much as I'd like to since it's my fathers old truck.
Ha don't trust dealership workmanship, they are just as much of rejects as service stations. Problem is many mechanics today have little knowledge but enough to eventually fix problems but jack up the ticket. I'm happy there are still true mechanics out there that care about the vehicles and not the money
Old Nov 23, 2011 | 10:36 PM
  #8097  
sycoglitch's Avatar
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
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Originally Posted by Fidel
1994 Jeep Cherokee XJ 4.0L

Have to replace the fuel lines that run from the metal fuel lines to the fuel rail with quick connect fittings. I have the fittings ( one 3/8" and one 5/16" ) and I have some sae30r6kx 5/16" fuel line. The quick connect fittings fit in nice and snug and was able to use some clamps there and at the metal fuel lines.

So my question is:
Is this fuel line ok to use? it is much thicker than the lines that were there but, i can't seem to find that type of fuel line anywhere.

Primed it a few times and no leaks but i am still worried. First time messing with any fuel system. ( scares me lol )

Thanks in advance!
Same here I haven't messed with the fuel system but if the fuel system is still at 45-50 psi and you aren't running rich etc it should be fine.
Old Nov 23, 2011 | 10:40 PM
  #8098  
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
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Originally Posted by hytek
I'm going to replace my alternator soon because it's squeeling. Should I replace the belt at the same time too? Belt looks ok, but I'm not sure how old it is.

Thanks in advance!
Change your bel before the alt. it's cheaper and easier. Of you haven't had a problem starting your jeep and you have no issue running multiple electrical items don't throw money away right away.

But that belt, check for cracks and it's easy to change, a 15mm open wrench for the idler pulley than a socket for the adjuster bolt loosen those drop the belt off and reroute a new one the and tighten the bolt then the idler pulley. Rinse and repeat of needed till it snug
Old Nov 23, 2011 | 10:43 PM
  #8099  
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From: Summerville, South Carolina
Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Noob question, what does "cut and rolled" fenders mean??
Old Nov 23, 2011 | 10:45 PM
  #8100  
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
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Originally Posted by zombie jeep101
Noob question, what does "cut and rolled" fenders mean??
Noob answer, lol, to trim the fender and bend them inwards. Some people fold them upwards and press them into the fender wells and there has been some that folded them flat, parallel to floor, and clean up and use as extra protection from water. Never done it but this is from what I've heard. Oh and no question is to noobish we've all been there before



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