Okay. I have a 2001 4 wheel drive jeep cherokee sport. I bought this car and the rear driverside tire made a some what loud humming noise. Sounded like there was some play. I myself know nothing much about cars. My brother said its a bad bearing, he takes it out and says yea it was bad and replaced it. He did tell me that he didnt have to beat the bearing in and it more or less just slid right in. Thats where I am left, it still humming when I drive and I really want to fix it. All my brother says is now I should replace my whole rear end? whats that suppose to mean? If you can help me with any of this I would very much appreciate the help.

 

I just got my new double shear track bar in the mail today today!!!! But I got excited and put one of the bushings together before reading the instructions (didn't grease before installing) and it seems pretty well in their now. I was wondering if I should:
A:get them out at any cost and grease them heavily (is their a trick to getting it out without damaging bushing?)
B:not worry about it too much (like maybe it was just to aid in installation?)
C:just grease the outside
D: something else I'm not thinking of
Thanks!

 

So i went to put my jeep in 4wd and it goes into 4wd part time but clunks when you accelerate but not when rolling, put it in 4x4 full time and it just grinds? also 4x4 low is the same problem as 4wd part time, so you guys have any ideas what it is? i have a 3 in lift and a tcase drop, do i need to extend my front driveshaft? i just dont understand why it would click/clunk only when ACCELERATING and NOT WHEN ROLLING?

 

The car behaves differently during acceleration as apples to rolling and neutral. Get the jeep on a lift an pop her into 4wd and stand under her while someone gives her a lil gas. The problem might just be in the TC itself. Have you checked the fluid

 

Are you sure the noise is coming for
The rear, is it when you accelerate. Jack the rear up and see if the rear tires spin "freely" and note how they spin, opposite direction or same direction. And open fill hole in rear differential and put your finger in make sure you have fluid just under hole. Also try checking the search feature on the site using my signature see if anything pops up. Good luck

 

i cant afford to get it on a lift anywhere i have to fix this myself and for as cheappp as possible, maybe put it up on bricks and jackstands? and how do i check the fluid level?

 

Here in Arizona, XJs sell like crazy! I've been searching for a while and found this (copy and pasted from craigslist)

"Up for sale is a 1999 jeep cherokee. has 156xxx org miles, great condition inside and out. runs awesome, super cold ac, dark window tint, good deck with sub and amp in the back. Tires have 90% tread on them. Asking $4800 obo"

I test drove the Jeep and the actual mileage was 172,xxx and the check engine light was on. The guy had a stack of maintenance records, most of which were from the previous owner. He said that he was selling the Jeep because his wife needed something bigger. I told him I wasn't interested and walked away. Later that night, he texted me and lowered the price to $4400 without the sub and amp. That's when I told him about the check engine light. He looked into it and replaced the faulty part (code p0107, engine coolant temp sensor voltage too low) and that there was no more code.

I told him the most I would pay was $4200 and he said that was acceptable. Is that too much or should I hold out and keep looking? It's a black XJ, my least favorite color. It had your typical scraps and dings for a 12 year old Jeep.

Thanks. This is my first and so far, my most important post! Cheers!

 

Lol we all look to fix for cheap. You can use a 2 ton jack and jackstands yes but as for fluid crawl under your girl and you'll see the TC in the middle behind the tranny. On the rear of the TC you'll see two caps to unscrew. I forgot the size needed but the top one is the fill/ check one. I'm pretty sure all year xjs have the same style TC fill holes whether it be a 242 or 231 TC and if I'm wrong someone please correct me and before you ask sounds like you have a 242 since you have 4full

 

okay ill check the fluid in the morning thanks ill keep ya posted, could fluid being low really affect it as much as it is? and i do believe i have the NP242 transfer case because it has 2hi, 4x4 part time, 4x4 full time, neutral, then 4lo

 

Low fluid will cause it to shift harder and possible grind the wheels but that's also the easiest thin to check. Worst case you'll have to open the TC but well take it one step at a time

 

Does anyone here have experience with Vortex winches? I know Warn is best, had one, sold it with my last truck.....

just wondering.

 

I already know the answer to this but I wanna see what's some of you guys think. Have an 89 lifted 3 inches 31 mud ATS. When even it rains or my brakes get wet and let it sit for a while I go to drive and hit the brakes and my driver rear locks up way to hard. This isn't gonna be good come winter lol. Is it rust on the brakes or????

 

I don't know what exactly causes that, but it does that on both my XJs. Goes away after driving a few yards, at least on both of mine. Just something drum brakes are prone to.

 

Yea xj brakes suck but open the drum
Up and or even check by rotating make sure they aren't too tight. Jack up the tear and spin the tire and it's only suppose to turn like 1-1.5 times before I stops on its own and listen to how much it's grinding on the drums. I've heard that drum brakes can freeze up bad if they are too tight

 

mine occasionally does this also, but on the other side. Haven't had a chance to look into it yet but I would take the drum off and check everything out.