In my garage all we have is a 1 ton floor jack, two 3 ton jack stands, and a bottle jack, we ended up using railroad ties for extra jack stands. The only advice I really have is don't let it hit the ground, since we had a shortage of jacks and jack stands, my front axle was in quite a precarious position for a few minutes, make sure to put it on stands and support the pumpkin, guess that's really all there is to it, sorry I couldn't be of more help.

 

Ok, that's helps some! Thanks

 

so i ended up getting the water pump removed and replaced. Got everything back on right and was getting ready to flush my radiator since i was already there, started to fill my radiator when i heard some dripping, looked under the engine and it looks like its coming out of the block. I think its pretty obvious that i cracked it, but I'm hoping that's just me jumping to conclusions, and that it is an easy/cheap fix. i wasnt able to upload a picture, but it looks like its coming out of a seem and not necessarily a crack

 

can i pull the ac condenser and radiator out together? We are replacing the motor in our 2000 Cherokee Sport and going at it from the front. Grille and bumper are already off.

 

You will have to disco the lines to the condenser, which is a weird connection, but other than that they will come out together, the radiator has two posts on the bottom that slide into the frame and the condenser has tabs that go on the posts and go between the radiator and the frame. Hope that helps somewhat, it's hard to explain but once you see it you'll understand what im saying

 

Thank you!
Is it safe to disconnect the lines to the condenser without having the system "depressurized"? I don't have the ability to get the vehicle to a mechanic.

 

ok so 4 link or long arm for a driver/trail?

 

My ac has never worked so idk, you'll have to recharge it if that's what you mean. When I took a replacement from the JY it was pressurized, as far as personal safety, just make sure you're in a ventilated area, prolly not good to breath it in...

 

I'm partial to 4-links/3-links over Radius style long arms. 4-link would be good for DD/High Speed Stuff. 3-links are fantastic for trails/slow stuff. Install a 4 link where it's easy to remove one side if you wanted - best of both worlds.

Radius arms rend to have unpredictable unloading characteristics when climbing, plus you have to limit the downtravel somehow so you don't rip your shocks apart.

 

The EPA hates you....

 

Yea they do, but it's probably because they are yet another waste of government money

 

Has anyone had a problem with the part time light staying on all the time. 90 Cherokee

 

I have the same problem on my '88. Most likely, it's stuck on because the vacuum lines and/or vacuum system on your Jeep are shot. My heater system is stuck on defrost and my front axle is stuck to engaged, so I know my vac. system is no good. The light staying on won't hurt anything, just more of an annoyance.

 

Hi all Im working on doing a heater flush and maybe raditor also but befor I do any cutting I got very confused as to what hoses were supposed to be hot and what were not plus in all the pics and vids I've seen the don't have this block thing that i got. So what Im wondering is if someone can tell me where to feel and cut/remove the hose. The one with the braiding got hot but none of the otheres didi or felt like they had pressure.

 

i have replaced my fuel pump the jeep starts up and idles great but if you drive it ,it goes about 3 tenths of a mile and the voltage to the fuel pump is lost i have already changed every fuse every relay and the fuel pump connectors it will not start unless i dropp the tank and unhook the fuel pump and hot wire it to a battery it comes on at that point i will put it all back together and it will go 3 tents of a mile i am stumped this is my first post so if i dididnt do it right please forgive me i need help on this issue what could my problem be?