Uh...I just had that fender apart a few weeks back you'd think. Remember. The spout goes from in engine bay through wall into fender. All the wires come from the front behind the header panel. I could be mistaken and they run down, I just can't recall exactly how they run



Ps best pic I have from when I had my fender off

 

Symptoms are dead on for a faulty CPS.

 

Mine seems to do the same. Right before the transmission drops outta gear, the oil pressure gauge shoots way up. If ya find anything out before me please let me know. Thanks

 

Your problems happening at the same time point to an electrical fault, either a short or a poor ground. Both the sensors use the engine block as a grounding point.

Oil pressure sender problems are common and have no effect on the engine running. Inspect the sender wires and wire plug for damage or corrosion and replace the oil pressure sender.

Begin with basic trouble shooting of the electrical systems. Remove, clean, and firmly reconnect all the wires and cables to the battery, starter, and alternator. Look for corroded or damaged cables or connectors and replace as needed. Do the same for the grounding wires from the battery and engine to the Jeep's frame/body. Jeeps do not tolerate low voltage or poor grounds and the ECM/ECU may behave oddly until you remedy this.

Load test the battery.

Test the Throttle Position Sensor. Malfunctioning of this would cause shifting issues.

 

I've been beating my head against the wall on this. New TCU, solenoids, TPS and NSS yet still having problems. I've tested the grounds going to the TCU and sensors and continuity in the wiring between the TCU and sensors. Even have a new kickdown cable. Its adjusted. Yet it still likes to drop down to first after a while. Im about ready to put my 700R4 in it if I can't figure it out.

 

OMine is definitely gone. That outer fender was replaced, and the inner was beat into submission. I'm going to the jy today to get cruise parts. I'll see what I can make work. Unsure if there is still enough room in the fender for the bottle. May have to relocate to the engine compartment.

Thanks a bunch for the info and excellent pic.

 

How do u replace the brake lines on a 95 Cherokee

 

I want to add a locker. Should I start with a front or rear locker?

 

what rear axle do you have?

I say front either way. Front lockers are more effective offroad and in mud, but can get squirrely in snow (but I see you're in Texas so no snow for you - you don't need to worry about that). Also if you have a Dana35 rear a locker in the back is a recipe for an explosion of metal bits.

 

just got my jeep goin' through it.just fixed "death wobble".It seemed the jeep 88 pioneer had to get to closed loop before inst. panel would work took kick panel off to see wiring now nothing works in the dash.loose ground somewhere?

 

English, please?

 

If you do a rear locker, my suggestion is swap out the D35 with a C8.25 and then put in a locker.. cheapest and most direct fit axle you can swap to for some additional strength. That's what I'm planning on doing soon.

 

tried searching the forum, couldnt find a thread that hit the nail right on the head, so here it is. i found some old coil springs kickin around. I think they are the old stock springs. they have what seems to be a chrysler tag but its tatered and im not positive. the springs length is about 17 inches. can anybody give me a definitive answer if these are the stock size or not?

 

if i remember tomorrow yes i can. i took mine out this weekend.

 

Bolt size / length for a 1 inch tcase drop?

98 I6 4x4