For the seats unbolt them from the seat bracket and swap them. Quite simple.

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From what I've read this is do-able. I'm just wondering about the brakes.
Are they larger? I've not seen any listing for XJ brakes that also list the ZJ parts as interchangeable.
I have an axle that came as a set. I needed the rear for the discs and the price was right.
I need to swap out another axle because of a bad repair on the lower control arm mounts by the PO. I have a donor XJ but I'm using it while I get the 99 ready.
Not worried about gearing. I want the ratio it has.

 

Ah ok. That's called the "Throttle Solenoid" in the parts catalog. The OEM P/N is going to be either 8350-0466 or 8350-2116. Your local parts house should be able to cross-reference it to an aftermarket part.

It's also known as the "idle stop solenoid" if that helps you find one. Good luck.

Maybe the part is universal with Carter carbs? You have a 1BBL C1YFA. Worth a shot also...

 

Doable, Yes.
Desirable? Nope - Not at all.

The ZJ front D30 is exactly the same as the XJ D30, except that it has the undesirable low-pinion design (standard cut gears) and uses CV joint axle shafts. It's a step in the wrong direction (weaker and less clearance, worse driveline angles with lift). ZJ gear ratios are also usually a bit different, so you'd need to make sure they match exactly. Additionally, all references I find say the ZJ front brakes are exactly the same as the XJ ones.

I recommend either fixing the mounts or swapping in the XJ axle.

 

So last night I did a little bit of mudding. In probably 3-7 inches of water. Not exactly sure. But today when I started my stock 96 xj it seemed to be running rough. If I raised the rpm's it would smooth out but when ever I would idle it wasn't to smooth. It kind of felt like it was backfiring a little bit. After I drove it around to work, it was back to being smooth again? I have no idea what was wrong at first. Anyone have any ideas?

 

You probably just got water on some of the electrical connectors. You should be alright. Is it still idling good? You go thru the water fast?

 

or water in the distributor cap

 

I did go through the water fast. So I was thinking it had to be something like that. But after I drove it for a while it started to idle normally. I haven't got a chance to take a look at it or start it again because I'm at work. But I'm hoping that I am going to safe.

 

I'll have to take it off and inspect. Can I dry it out if there is anything still in there? Or is it best to just let it air dry?

 

if it's running fine now don't worry about it. I added an extended breather line to mine (3/8" fuel line from the top breather hole to up by the top of the firewall w/ opening pointed down)

 

If your o2 sensor has a splice in it, water will get in there and make it idle rough. Once you drive around for a min then it dries out and all is well. Mine does the same thing when i drive in deep water. Just drive slower through water that deep. We don't drive the most nimble vehicles with super water tires. Driving fast through wster is asking for disaster.

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Haha, agreed. I wasn't flying through the water, but I had some speed going through.

 

It is fun hitting lots of water!

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Also, as far as my overheating problem is concerned, I'm probably not going to pull the thermostat. I did a quick search that showed the Stant Superstat doesn't have burping holes, so pulling the thermostat would not fix anything. I'll worry when it overheats with 50/50. At least now I have a working temp sending unit.[/QUOTE]keep us posted.

 

So i am going to be cutting my fenders and i was wondering how i should cut the front. Ive heard that it can make the fender flimsy. So would i be ok to just cut or cut and leave a little bit of a flair or cut and fold? I just dont want to turn my fender into a flapping peice of metal at 65 mph. haha