The factory ones are dim? Lol you've never driven against your own Jeep, have you?

This section is for XJs, released in 1983. You want the KL Cherokee section here: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f87/

 

lol.... THIS. THIS is dim:

 

I moved it already

 

I finished charging the AC system today, no leaks, ice cold, and no strange noises. Thanks again guys

 

I have a 2004 GC 4.0 that is showing dtc P0159, bank 2 sensor 2. My question is do I need the o2 sensor for cyls 1-3 or 4-6?

Thank you!!

 

Alrighty thought I fixed my intermittent no start. Replaced ignition switch, starter, swapped around the fan, asd and starter relays, started a dozen or so times, now won't start at all. Any more ideas?

Edit: starts right up with a screwdriver across the starter though.

 

What year again? There's a starter relay in the cab, too. PDC in '97+

 

Bank 2 would be 4-6 downstream of catalytic convertor.

We have another thread in the Grand Cherokee section, by the way. This section is for vehicles designed by AMC and Renault, released in 1983.

 

Got a few of these the other day:
Will nit work for me?
how about my '89 Cherokee, AW-4 / NP242 ?

(some say the Mopar fluid is not good because it it synthetic, ...so is this)
I got in on sale before reading that ^^^

 

'99. Gosh! How many relays do they need in series!

Gotta say Dex/merc III somewhere on it for the AW4. Transfercase doesn't really care as long as it's not water...Lols

 

Can someone help me out with these wires. I took my jeep to a friends shop last summer to get a red top and the "big 3" wires upgraded. I glanced over it at the time and went on. Now that I'm getting my setup ready for dual batteries I'm finding weird stuff. In this picture you see two wire apparently joined together.



Where do these run? I'm pretty sure one runs to the PDC, a the other to the starter? Not sure. I'd like to pull this mess out and actually upgrade the wiring.

Also, can someone explain this alternator/fusible link setup? I thought the fusible link was in between the alternator and the PDC. I have a 4g wire running straight from the alternator to the battery. And then another 4g wire running to that splice I just pictured.



This is my PDC. I looked in the FSM I got from pacific coast manuals but it shows the alternator running to a 15 amp fuse on the PDC. And I've seen others say the same thing about their manuals being wrong.

Thanks for the help.

 

Yeah, seriously. Also, I think I made a typo earlier. The full starter circuit goes Junction Block fuse -> ignition switch -> Junction Block relay w/ fuse -> PDC relay w/ fuse -> starter solenoid.

+1

The transfer cases were sold with basically every ATF out there. Synthetic is good since they make so much heat.


This is not accurate at all. Mopar ATF is the wrong formulation, and has been for at least thirty years. The Aisin-Warner (Toyota) automatic behind 4.0Ls is designed to work with GM-spec fluid.

Can't quite recall but it sounds like that FSM leaves a fair bit to be desired. The alternator should have a couple of 60A fusible links. Also the starter is direct to the battery.

Check out the Technical Documents section at www.cruiser54.com for your year's FSM.

 

Sooooo, it started working again...do relays stop working intermittently? And then start working again? Thought they'd just up and quit?

 

Sometimes maybe. They're mechanical devices. And remember... each one has a ground that Chrysler screwed up

 

Spent yesterday painting the front and rear bumpers to match the body color on my '99 XJ. Went ahead and removed the stock fender flares and bumper caps for refinishing with Meguiar's Back to Black. When I pulled the fender flares, I did not remove the brackets from the fenders. I just pulled the flares. Now that I have to reinstall them, they will NOT fit back into the brackets. Is there some trick, or should I go ahead and remove the brackets, risking breaking the studs? Thanks in advance.