it's the TRIM package. Interior and exterior colors/upholstery/accents/trim. Different packages also came with different options - full guages, a/c, roof rack, LSD, etc.

The sport always (unless changed by the buyer) came with the 4.0L engine, side door trim, a two tone paint job, and alloy wheels [dependent on year]

Using a 1995 as an example:

Sport:


SE:


Country:

 

And the bad a$$ package! Lol

 

My sport was all red except molding and caps, oh and factory tint

 

dude how much lift is that, and those tires look bigger than 35s.

I love that color btw.

 

6.5" with 37s oh and thx, im partial to green lol

 

yea later ones were a bit different

 

Now find one like that with bushwakers about a 5 inch lift and 35s and that was my 01 lol

 

Hi, new here and I own a 97 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 liter straight six with 143,000 miles on it. I just got finished with replacing the exhaust manifold. All the electrical, vacuum, fuel lines are in place and I tuned up the engine, plugs , wires, rotor, rotor cap, air filter, oil, and oil filter.
Now, from the first time I started it up it ran great just like a tune-up and exhaust repair would, except that *Check Engine* light is staying on. So I go take it for a spin and after a mile or so all the fuel injectors "at once" started to cut on and off so bad that I could hardly maintain enough speed to get home.
I went over every thing on the engine and everything is plugged back in from the exhaust repair and the injectors all still cut on and off and the *Check Engine* light stays on. The wierd thing is, is that while the injectors are firing the engine is perfect. I do not have a code scanner and I am afraid to try and drive to the auto store.
Would any of you more enlightened Cherokee Techs know what may be causing this or should I ups in a code scanner. Thanks for any help.

 

Misfireing? Perhaps wires are crossed? You can verify injector operation with a noid light. (can rent from most auto part stores)

 

Had something similar on my 2 dr. Ended up bein shift solenoids.

Sent from my iPhone because web wheeling is cheaper...

 

try disconnectiing negative n pos terminals from batt and touch them for 30 seconds to reset the pcm and then turn the key to on (not start) turn back to off, turn headlights on, turn headlights off, turn key to on (not start) and off again and then restart the jeep, the pcm will then relearn everything for the next 50 cold starts and it should level out

 

I would try the key trick before you reset the computer so you can see what codes its spitting out before you clear them away! Just a thought.

 

When I shifted to 4wd for 10 seconds or so, and then back to 2wd the noise stopped.Would this confirm tc linkage bushing? Who knows for how long?lol

 

OK I have 95grand Cherokee the door ajar buzzer button broke and is now always on so I bought the button and I know I connected it right but its still on so I got another one same thing is there a way to by pass the button for good

 

Dont they just unscrew?