I have a 1998 xj 4.0 4wd limited, 171k. I am think I am having voltage regulator issues but I am not sure. I have tried to research this on here but haven't found an answer for my specific issue. Now time for the long story of bs that has me wanting to set fire to the dang thing. It all started with my cps going out 6 months ago. Since then.... Replaced CPS- all good, then P0301- replaced cap, rotor, wires, plugs - not fixed. Had leak down and compression - checked out good according to the shop. Step 2 to this problem, BG44k, Seafoam, Water. Made it happy for a little while but the code has returned and I plan on doing my valve springs soon. Then the voltage started getting mental. Dropping down from 14 to 12.5-13 only after driving for about 30 mins, occassional stuttering/almost stalling while in traffic ( I don't know if this is due to the misfire or voltage). Had the alternator and battery tested- both good. Pulled every fuse checked with test light couldn't find a drain. Decided to replace the alternator in case it was the diodes that were bad. For ease of reading I'll list symptoms:
1 Starts fine all the time
2 Sits at 14v every morning then drops after driving a while
3 Occassionaly will rev itself up from 750rpm to 1200 ish on start up after I've been driving around town etc, does not do this while in drive or driving.
4 Volts drop to 12.5 - 13 esp. when I put on my a/c.
This morning after it was good and hot I put on my a/c full blast, turned on my headlights, radio etc just to see what it would do. Attached voltmeter to the battery and watched it drop from 13.8 all the way down to 12.3 and it drops a little more when its in drive.
My grounds are all good. I'm sure I have given information overload here but I don't know if all of these problems are related (bad ECU) or just individual shinanigans happening all at once. Thank you in advance for any opinion or help and if it is my voltage regulator what ECU do I want to make sure I get from the dismantler?

 

I need to enlarge a hole in a bushing sleeve so I can use the 9/16 bolts that came with my no lift shackles. All I have is a cordless drill to make it happen. What would you guys recommend so i don't offset the hole?

 

The correct bushing sleeves
Or at least a drill press

I know that isn't what you wanna hear, but I wouldn't even try it

 

and that's saying a lot haha

 

Maybe I'm finally getting better lol

I mean, I actually consider shocks to be pretty important now on my 9" lifted Wrangler with no sway bar

 

Maybe buy the correct hardware? M14x2.0 120mm ISO Class 10.9

 

now you're getting crazy. Shocks are just a waste of money like steering stabilizers.

 

Nope, stock suspension. The only thing I've done in the two years I've had it is replace the rear leafs with the Doorman springs everyone uses.

I greased the slip yoke last June, and I've put about 5k miles on it since then. It's starting to stick again, so it's probably time to hit it with grease. Stock suspension with no SYE, though the leafs are new. I should recheck my u-bolts. The vibration is most intense when on the throttle, though it doesn't disappear entirely when at neutral throttle or coasting when it's in the "sweet spot" (~40 and 75-80 mph). Part of me says I should just pick up an angle gauge and check the driveline angles to at least eliminate that variable.

 

My bad guys, a tad more info would have been helpful. I'm like 90% through installing HD No Lift SRB's, so all the hardware was correct. The bushing sleeve was just a hair to small for the 9/16ths bolt. Bought a 9/16 drill bit, and it opened it easy. Wasn't expecting it to work out so smoothly, that's why I asked.

 

A single fan? What radiator are you running? If it's the square-shaped one, that's too small for the 6 cyl. If it's rectangular one - you need two fans. Either way, there's your overheating problem.

As far as the PSI of the radiator cap, I'm not sure what the OEM recommended is, but the one on mine is a 16 PSI cap.

 

13 or 16psi, depending on model year

 

The label on mine says 18PSI(probably replaced by PO). What does that affect?

 

Hang on a second.

You have one electric fan?

Where's the mechanical clutch fan? The electric fan on these vehicles is auxilliary only...

 

It allows your cooling system to build up to a higher pressure, similar to putting more air in your tires. As long as the system can handle it, you're fine. I don't know the pressure limit that the factory system was designed for.

On the technical side, increasing the pressure of the system will raise the boiling point proportionally. Water boils at 212°F. If you put that water in a sealed system at 10psi, the it boils around 242F. At 15psi, that temperature raises to 257F. With a 50/50 mix of coolant, those numbers change to approximately 226°F, 253F, and 265F, respectively.

 

I have a load grinding noise coming from the left front wheel. At first I thought it was road noise coming from the tire but when I put the window down I hear it gets much loader and I can tell it's coming from the wheel and not the tire. I think it may be my front wheel hub. Any ideas what this can be?