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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
There are multiple powered circuits: constant power (key off) for things like headlights and alarm, accessory power for things like radio, run power for injectors and spark, and ignition power for starter. If you just provided power to the starter there would be no power on the other circuits and the computer could not make the engine run.
The main power lead to the starter motor is on a bridged circuit that is closed by the starter solenoid. If you activated the solenoid, then the power from the jumper would pass through the bridge to the battery and provide power that could be used by the other circuits. However the key is still in the OFF position so the RUN circuit would still be inactive. As such the computer could not make the engine run, and thus it would not start
How much power loss is common with a busted muffler? Truck sounds like an import and my acceleration from 0-40 mph is a bit sluggish. New muffler goes in next week, but I'm concerned there is another underlying issue. Any thoughts?
How much power loss is common with a busted muffler? Truck sounds like an import and my acceleration from 0-40 mph is a bit sluggish. New muffler goes in next week, but I'm concerned there is another underlying issue. Any thoughts?
Should be none. My muffler unfortunately is riced out right now and I still get up to highway speed from a red light like everyone else
Should be none. My muffler unfortunately is riced out right now and I still get up to highway speed from a red light like everyone else
yeah I've had exhaust leaks before, but never one this large. And never experienced this noticeable a difference in power. The truck has new injectors (Bosch yellow tops), plugs, distributor cap, rotor, wires, TPS, iac and Bosch fuel pump assembly. All installed within the last 4000 miles. It was going good until I got on it one day. Idles mint but has a bit of diminished acceleration in 1st and 2nd. Was running great until it wasn't. Any ideas on where to start troubleshooting?
I have a Cherokee North 2015. I managed to program (through the touch screen display) all of the light settings but one. When I park the car and lock it, i want all the lights to go off without delay. I found the setting to have no delay for the headlights and the general interior dashboard. However I cannot find out how to remove the delay on the speedometer cluster lights.
So, when I lock the doors, the speedometer cluster lights has a 30 delay before they go out. How do I remove that delay so the lights go out right away when the car is parked and doors are locked?
I have a Cherokee North 2015. I managed to program (through the touch screen display) all of the light settings but one. When I park the car and lock it, i want all the lights to go off without delay. I found the setting to have no delay for the headlights and the general interior dashboard. However I cannot find out how to remove the delay on the speedometer cluster lights.
So, when I lock the doors, the speedometer cluster lights has a 30 delay before they go out. How do I remove that delay so the lights go out right away when the car is parked and doors are locked?
thanks
Derek
Congrats on the KL however wrong section to post in. This is for XJs. You gotta go to the KL forum section
I posted a few weeks back about having cold start issues. Jeep would stumble and sputter up to a start instead of just starting but, ran and drove fine after that. Long story short, I tracked it down to me running a different fuel. I thought I'd try 91 octane (because it didn't have any ethanol in it) and well after using up all that 91 I filled the Jeep back up with 87 (10% ethanol) and what do you know, back to normal and all is good.
Just thought I'd share that because I had a hard time believing that just a few more octane would do that. I think it maybe has something to do with the 4.0L's relatively low compression ratio and maybe spark plug gap? Any other ideas?
WHOA!!...If changing to Octane(new tank of gas) solved this problem... then you need to take a copy of these posts and your reciept to the Vendor who sold it to you and.get your money back!!! ...You've got bad gas!!! ...2 kinds, had water inside it (a trick the Mtn. Vendors use to make more money... about 500 gallons watering to 20,000 gallons fuel) or "trash" in the fuel (from sucking off the bottom of the Vendor tank... which means you need to check your fuel filter imediatley .... even if its brand new.... and don't forget to tap it sharply on the outlet side to disslodge any trash during "blow through test"..) the, ethanol will absorb water out of the air" quicker so unless that 91 octane has been sitting for over 6 months it has trash... (91 octane didn't have Ethenol??) In that case they owe you for fuel filter, injector clean, and possibly a new set of injectors (if they don't clean up)
How hard is it to install a crankshaft senor and a camshaft senor on an automatic 97 XJ? Dealership robbed me of $240 the just check it and wanted almost $900 to replace them. I just ordered the 2 and waiting to be delivered.
If these are on the Bell housing (harmonic balancer is tricker..but can be done) you can shop around Rock Auto (not plugging..just great for comparrison their format) and find similar size with different leads and a little solder time and your in bussiness... (This is one of my "pet peave's) ...they all do the same thing, so as long as the mounting "radius" and "insertion depth" is the same it will work..and a lot of them are really cheap..I don't know the one that swaps to Jeep but maybe someone here does...they have them as low as $44.00 on "RA"...You can try crossing the Tran's too and check Junkyards..usually they are good or bad, with bad being a "No Start"
I feel like I'm overlooking something really simple here.
Theoretically, why can't I jumpstart a jeep by putting the positive lead on the dead vehicle's starter terminal?
In the old days they had a by-pass box that bypassed the Ing. Lock etc. Starter terminal to batt.+, chassis -, Coil + and your off..It was a favorite of the "Repo Guys"..LOL ...had to be pre OBD 1...
yeah I've had exhaust leaks before, but never one this large. And never experienced this noticeable a difference in power. The truck has new injectors (Bosch yellow tops), plugs, distributor cap, rotor, wires, TPS, iac and Bosch fuel pump assembly. All installed within the last 4000 miles. It was going good until I got on it one day. Idles mint but has a bit of diminished acceleration in 1st and 2nd. Was running great until it wasn't. Any ideas on where to start troubleshooting?
Often the Cat. breaks up plugging muffler and making a "HotSpot" that burns out into a leak take your fist and beat on muffler and Cat. with the heel of your hand.... listen for rattles... possible bad Cat. The plugging will drop power... happens occasionally after hard run
Often the Cat. breaks up plugging muffler and making a "HotSpot" that burns out into a leak take your fist and beat on muffler and Cat. with the heel of your hand.... listen for rattles... possible bad Cat. The plugging will drop power... happens occasionally after hard run
This is got the most part true. When my original cat was going bad, I lost a lot of performance. Got rid of it and a walker direct replacement and it brought her back
So because my jeep is throwing a crank sensor code and won't rev past 1500 rpms I pulled the sensor today (lots of cussing is involved in this removal) but it looks as if it's a new piece should I still pay 80 bucks and get anew one?
Sep 21, 2015, 03:49 PM
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