Yup. Pretty crappy setup.

Vacuum canister maintains vacuum in the system for your cruise, your air diverter, and it helps the brake booster as well. Depending on which vacuum lines were disconnected, you won't notice any change in engine performance, but your brakes and other vacuum-controlled items will work better.

By the way, if your air has a vacuum leak or is not working, it will divert to the windshield by default. The vacuum pressure (or rather negetive pressure) is what pulls the diverter down to the floor as well as out the dash. No negetive pressure=windshield only.

 

Clockwise.

 

Thanks. This Saturday ill pull her into the garage and feel around her. See what I can muster up

 

It's a reservoir that stores vacuum pressure.

Vacuum is created by the pistons drawing air into the combustion chamber through the intake. The amount of vacuum (negative pressure) varies according to factors such as RPMs, throttle opening, etc. Some systems monitor the fluctuations in vacuum pressure (MAP sensor, etc), while other systems just use vacuum to open diaphragms and want to be isolated from changes in pressure (cruise control, HVAC, etc). The reservoir provides a stable source of vacuum pressure to the systems that are on that circuit (brakes have their own reservoir, in the brake booster drum). Basically the engine vacuum creates negative pressure throughout the system, and if the engine vacuum drops then the system pressure starts to normalize, at which point the negative pressure in the canister will continue to provide vacuum to the systems that are on that leg. Meanwhile, a check valve prevents the canister vacuum from bleeding back into the rest of the intake.

 

another simple question..

I need to adjust my drag link (stock) but the sleeve is a rusty mess. Can I replace just the sleeve ? I can only find the sleeve for the tie rod online.. are they identical?

 

What you have described (been going on for many miles) almost has to be a "crank rattle" ...Main Bearings are shot...it will run a long time like this...issue is, when you go to rebuild engine....it will be so worn out (past limit for tolerance's) it won't be worth building....$$$$ machine shop bill..save for a crate motor or shop for good used one and toss it when it finally blows...I've run 3-4 years with a crank rattle on 3 differant engines...I bought a crate motor for $1,695.00 (I think they have gone up to around $2,100.00) and it runs great (20,000 miles so far)..

 

Hello, I have a 1998 xj i6, and it has been throwing codes p0204, 5, &6, and I've tried everything, swapped injectors, new tps, checked wiring for voltage, ground, continuity, and used a noid light, all tested well except #6 noir didn't work, I also went as far as to replace the pcm, no luck, I removed the wiring harness and found multiple frayed wires making contact where the inj harness plugs into the main harness, put it through a sonic cleaner and repaired any frayed wires, and thought for sure that had to be my problem but no luck, rest of harness looked okay unless I missed something, any ideas anyone?

 

so guys,
First, thanks for the lessons on the vacuum system. They were informative. It was just interesting to me that my jeep ran just fine with what amounted to a fairly large vacuum leak.

Second, I've finally gotten around to getting a donor jeep for my 2wd junior jeep. It is ready to grow up and turn into a real jeep that can go four wheeling... (or at least have four wheel drive). I have two weeks to scrounge everything I can from the donor before it has to move on to the JY. The question now is, what do I need to pull from said donor jeep.

First, my jeep is late 93 2wd from the factory. I say late because the vin reads it as a 93 but it has 4wd hubs in the front like they put in the 94 jeeps. It's a manual 4.0 l... white... not sure what other specs you need. just ask.

Donor jeep is a 95 4wd manual. Obviously I want the running gear. Both are bone stock.

Here's what I know I want to pull:
Engine
Transmission
Transfer case
Drive shafts and cv shafts
front differential
rear differential (guts?)
computer
intake and exhaust manifolds
alternator and such... cause that comes out with the engine....

what else do I need to make absolutely certain I get before I let go of this? Like I said, I have two weeks, then it can't stay where it is any longer. I'd like for it to be able to roll to the jy. so wheels have to turn... any advice would be appreciated.

 

Ferrel,
If the Jeeps have different gear ratios, you'll have to swap both axles. If they have the same ratio, there's no reason to swap the rear axle unless yours has a D35 and the donor has a C8.25.

If the newer one has any interior options that yours doesn't, they should bolt on and (most likely) plug right in, unless it has something that wasn't offered on your older model.

While you're at it, you might as well check and see if the speakers have been upgraded.

If you really care, the '95 has stronger front doors. A side impact beam was added after '93 to improve the crash test safety rating.

And I think the third brake light was added in '94 if memory serves, so you could throw that on for safety if you don't have one.

 

Does 11.23v sound right for a battery not connected/under load?

 

That's low, needs a charge

 

12.4v-12.8v is ideal. You can pick up float chargers for fairly cheap. If it sits a few weeks between starts.

 

It sat for a full year, through the bitter winter and all.. IDK if theres any hope for it now.. It fires right up off a jump, but thats getting old. I've let it run for extended periods and driven a bit, but no luck.. Thanks.

 

Do you have a charger? I'd leave it on 2 amp charge overnight, see if it got over 12 in the morning

 

Dadgummitall, you beat me to it. I was just gonna say that.