You need to use Dexron/Mercon II/III fluid (not ATF+4). It's usually off to the side of the main section of ATF fluids at the store.

 

I agree with dukie on this one the Richmond lockers he is talking about is a very nice unit. And if you want it to be quieter don't get the lock right that's what I got I only have one in the front. And wow does that thing help. You'll be really happy with it.

 

thankxs for the help both you and dukie. Im def gonna get one to drop in for 2wd for slick mornings

 

just go easy on it till you get used to it. It's MUCH easier to break the back end loose around corners.

 

I've got a 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo 4x2 that's started stuttering like it's starving for fuel but only after it's warmed up... about 10-20 minutes straight driving no matter I'm driving the highway or streets.
I've replaced the fuel pump and tried filling up with different companies 87 octane fuel from different service stations, and I've also replaced the Throttle Position Sensor with a new one I got through Chrysler.
It started off that the fuel felt as if it was just cutting off for a split second at a time at only low speeds but has come to cutting off for a split second for 5 to 10 second intervals but only when I press the accelerater. Sometimes I'm able to rev up the RPMs while in gear and it clears it up for a while but it'll come back as long as the Jeep is hot. I'm afraid it'll do perminant damage since it's been stuttering at 55-60 mph on the freeway... the entire truck convulses pretty hard. Please Help!!!

 

Kind of sounds like you have heat soak on one or more of the fuel injectors, which is odd for your year XJ. Perhaps faulty wiring?

My other thoughts are that your o2 sensor is bad / shorted, you have a bad ignition coil or plugs/wires, or your CPS is failing when hot.

Whatever it is you are definitely experiencing thermal failure. Do you have a check engine light? If so it could tell us a wealth of information on the issue and what could be causing it.

my first course of action would be to disconnect the o2 sensor electrical connector for the next trip you take and see if the problem goes away. Your CEL will be lit, but it should tell you if the o2 sensor really is the culprit or not.

 

Any other symptoms i should look for be sure it is the compressor???? Or any other input on my problem ty for the quick reply.

 

Your a/c compressor clutch air gap has likely worn too wide, so the clutch is not re-engaging when it gets hot. Next time it happens stop and open the hood and see if the compressor clutch is spinning engaged. If not, CAREFULLY tap on it quickly with a plastic handle screwdriver and see if it re-engages.

If so, you can remove one of the steel shims to adjust the air gap. Do a google search for "cherokee compressor air gap fix"
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/a...83/index2.html

 

found it when I pulled the carpet... I was wondering if it was a build note or something?

 

Duckie why II or III some one at work said they dont make that any more and they told me to use 5 but he is kinda a a know it all so I dont really trust him. So im just woundering ill what u suggest

 

It's not LICENSED anymore, so they can't label it as such. The fluid I posted above is backwards compatible with that standard. If the bottle says "Dex/Merc II/III compatible" you're ok.

Basically, they took the old standards and now label them as multivehicle ATF.

Dexron VI(6) is the newest standard, and is supposed to be backwards compatible, but i've heard otherwise. There is no Dex 4 or Dex 5.

 

Dennis i will mos def check both. Any ideas from dukie?

 

control arm bushings sounds like the right track

 

Another reason we use this fluid is because the AW4 is a japanese made transmission, completely separate from chrysler. So when tgey say ATF recommended for chrysler vehicles, that only pertains to those with a chrysler transmission as well.

 

Also check your shift solenoids...I had a similar problem in my 98 and it would only do it when it was warm. I would take off from a light and it would violently stutter and if i punched the gas 2 or 3 times hard it would quit. Then i started losing OD. Ended up being bad shift solenoids.