When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
I'd like to know better alternatives for both. Just purchased an XJ and I'd like to clean it out.
For the fuel system, get a can of BG 44K. Add it to a full tank of gas. Drive on that tank til it's half full. Fill it again with gas and drive it til that tank is down to 1/8 full. Carry on after that. Do this once a year.
If you're concerned about crankcase sludge, first off, have you shined a light into the oil filler hole to assess that?
I tried jumping my car with my girlfriend's. Won't start with my jeep in park but I put it in neutral and it starts just fine. Tested it a few times without the jumper cables on and it starts in neutral as well as park. Engine ran very rich for the first few starts. Drove it around, shut it off, starts just fine in both park and neutral. Rich smell in exhaust is gone after drive.
Could it have just been a one time issue or is this indicative of a failing NSS?
That's your NSS for sure. Sometimes the contacts just get dirty, but it could be indicative of a failure. If it's failing, starts in Park will be intermittent. After starting in Neutral for a while, that'll begin to fail, too.
It could be a one-time occurrence. As for those rich starts, the battery is effectively disconnected. It resets your radio and the PCM, so it needs to relearn your driving habits
That's your NSS for sure. Sometimes the contacts just get dirty, but it could be indicative of a failure. If it's failing, starts in Park will be intermittent. After starting in Neutral for a while, that'll begin to fail, too.
It could be a one-time occurrence. As for those rich starts, the battery is effectively disconnected. It resets your radio and the PCM, so it needs to relearn your driving habits
Originally Posted by cruiser54
This could be a better idea just in case yours comes off in pieces due to corrosion.
Originally Posted by drhoward1988
I replaced mine with a NSS from ebay and it worked fine. Cost $35. I still cleaned mine and kept it as a spare
Originally Posted by cruiser54
Refurb is super easy.
Thank you all, I will refurb ASAP and report back with results.
So I was taking off my throttle body a couple weeks ago and one of the bolts snapped inside of the intake manifold, so I haven't had time to extract it(too cold and don't have tools for it)
My question, would this cause extremely bad gas mileage if driving like this? I have the other 3 bolts seated properly and a new throttle body gasket on it but I'm still curious.
For the fuel system, get a can of BG 44K. Add it to a full tank of gas. Drive on that tank til it's half full. Fill it again with gas and drive it til that tank is down to 1/8 full. Carry on after that. Do this once a year.
If you're concerned about crankcase sludge, first off, have you shined a light into the oil filler hole to assess that?
Haven't checked it yet. Our northern climate hasn't been friendly to working on engines lately. I came from the Dodge forum where they love their seafoam but after researching it doesn't seem to do much.
So I was taking off my throttle body a couple weeks ago and one of the bolts snapped inside of the intake manifold, so I haven't had time to extract it(too cold and don't have tools for it)
My question, would this cause extremely bad gas mileage if driving like this? I have the other 3 bolts seated properly and a new throttle body gasket on it but I'm still curious.
Thanks
Yes, if the throttle body gasket isn't 100% you'll have a pretty massive vacuum leak. You could pop the throttle body and gasket off and use some RTV on there, but it'll be quite a mess to clean up *properly* once you get the thing resolved.
anyone know part numbers for the twist style ccv valves? been looking but I can only find the number for the front. Nothing about the back with the small inlet.
Just trying to help out the local Jeepers with an Autozone that can actually find those parts. Already found the part numbers for the push in ones and grommets; they're posted on the back of one of our counters. Btw, they're special order, but we can get them.
anyone know part numbers for the twist style ccv valves? been looking but I can only find the number for the front. Nothing about the back with the small inlet.
Just trying to help out the local Jeepers with an Autozone that can actually find those parts. Already found the part numbers for the push in ones and grommets; they're posted on the back of one of our counters. Btw, they're special order, but we can get them.
In my quest to refurb my NSS, I can't seem to remove the NSS. The threaded "split bolt" or whatever you call it that has the retaining nut on it is both completely rusted and the threads have disintegrated. I'm honestly surprised the nut was still on the NSS. Because of this, I can't use the retaining nut to pry off the NSS safely and I believe the threaded nut is rusted to the rectangular actuator rod.
Anyone have any suggestions to removing it? I've tried sliding a smaller flat blade screwdriver behind the NSS and prying it off that way but I can't get enough leverage to pop the NSS off. I sprayed some PB blaster on it and am letting it soak for the mean time.
Looked good, but I'll have a better look when I change the vc gasket soon, maybe Tuesday. In Nola you either go to a parade on fat Tuesday or you work on your jeep.
Another question. I finally got all my windows to work but my driver's front starts getting off track about 1" from the top. What causes this and how do i fix it? It's not too big of an issue but I can only see its getting worse.