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Old Sep 21, 2015, 03:49 PM
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Old Jan 9, 2015 | 07:01 AM
  #47686  
freegdr's Avatar
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From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
There's an adjustment of the booster's rod into the back of the master cylinder.

Google "booster rod adjustment".
One thing a little adjustment goes a long way. Morning major.
Old Jan 9, 2015 | 07:08 AM
  #47687  
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by freegdr
One thing a little adjustment goes a long way. Morning major.
Morning general.

True. I have a pdf file of the booster stuff but it's too large to attach...Grrrr.

Looky here what I just found!!

Old Jan 9, 2015 | 07:10 AM
  #47688  
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by cruiser54

Morning general.

True. I have a pdf file of the booster stuff but it's too large to attach...Grrrr.
How many pages? If you want to email it over I can convert it or host it for ya.
Old Jan 9, 2015 | 07:11 AM
  #47689  
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From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
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Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
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This help....http://www.toobigforemail.com/
Old Jan 9, 2015 | 07:13 AM
  #47690  
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Originally Posted by freegdr
Cool.

But, I happen to have my own personal IT specialist on retainer. His name is Ross.
Old Jan 9, 2015 | 07:15 AM
  #47691  
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Originally Posted by salad
How many pages? If you want to email it over I can convert it or host it for ya.
You're welcome to thin it way down to JUST booster rod adjustment. The rest is unnecessary.
Old Jan 9, 2015 | 07:18 AM
  #47692  
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From: Wetumpka, AL
Year: 1987
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Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by cruiser54

You're welcome to thin it way down to JUST booster rod adjustment. The rest is unnecessary.
Getting an early start today huh Pete....
Question: are the 4 relays together under the hood on a renix 4.0 the same? I'm gonna clean up my wiring in the area (complete birds nest at the starter relay) and wanted to replace them since the did have some corrosion. I know they are the same type...but is the amperage the same?
Old Jan 9, 2015 | 07:19 AM
  #47693  
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Originally Posted by drhoward1988
Getting an early start today huh Pete....
Question: are the 4 relays together under the hood on a renix 4.0 the same? I'm gonna clean up my wiring in the area (complete birds nest at the starter relay) and wanted to replace them since the did have some corrosion. I know they are the same type...but is the amperage the same?
Zackly.
Old Jan 9, 2015 | 09:56 AM
  #47694  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
You're welcome to thin it way down to JUST booster rod adjustment. The rest is unnecessary.
Took the two of us an hour to shovel out this morning. Stand by...
Old Jan 9, 2015 | 12:35 PM
  #47695  
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by salad

Took the two of us an hour to shovel out this morning. Stand by...
How much snow did you get? All we got in minnesnowta was crazy wind making drifts....
Old Jan 9, 2015 | 02:36 PM
  #47696  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
You're welcome to thin it way down to JUST booster rod adjustment. The rest is unnecessary.


Booster Push Rod Adjustment

The Booster Push Rod projects from the front of the Brake Booster and activates the master cylinder. The push rod is adjustable and the clearance must be checked any time the master cylinder or booster is replaced. This is required to ensure the correct gap between the master cylinder piston and the booster push rod.

Problems can occur if the push rod is improperly adjusted:

  • If the gap is too small, it may cause brake drag and premature brake wear.
  • If the gap is too large, it may cause brake delay and reduced pedal reserve distance.
Prior to making the adjustment:


  • Check the brake pedal freeplay to ensure the booster is not partially applied.
  • Make the adjustment with the engine running to ensure the booster has vacuum. The booster body will change shape when a vacuum is applied and may reduce the clearance.
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Adjusting Procedure:
  1. Place a new gasket on the flange of the master cylinder. Set the push rod gauge over the end of the master cylinder with the rounded end of the tool plunger toward the piston.
  2. Push the plunger down until it just touches the bottom of the piston bore.
  3. Turn the gauge over and set the flat plunger end of the gauge on the booster and over the push rod. There should be no clearance between the booster push rod and the plunger.
  4. Adjust the booster push rod if necessary. (If the brake pedal is depressed to expose the adjustment nut, be sure to start the engine before checking the adjusted clearance.)


Alternate Method for Booster Adjustment


The preferred method of adjustment is the Booster Push Rod Gauge procedure just described. If the special service tool is not available the measurement procedure described here can be used to ensure a calculated clearance prior to installation of the master cylinder.


In this procedure, measure the distance between the bottom of the bore in the master cylinder primary piston to the top of the flange gasket using a depth micrometer or vernier caliper.
  1. Measure from the rim of the cylinder bore to the new gasket on the flange, measurement "A".
  2. Measure from the rim of the cylinder bore to the bottom of the bore in the primary piston, measurement "B".
  3. Subtracting "A" from "B" will give the depth of the piston bore from the master cylinder flange gasket, measurement "C".
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Next, measure the height of the booster push rod.
  1. Place a precision straight edge across the face of the booster body adjacent to the push rod.
  2. Measure from the top of the straight edge to the top of the push rod, measurement "D".
  3. Measure the width of the straight edge. (Measurement "E")
  4. Subtracting measurement "D" from "E" will give the height of the push rod, measurement "F".
  5. Clearance is determined by subtracting "F" from "C".
  6. Adjust the push rod to obtain approximately 0.1 mm to 0.5 mm clearance.
Old Jan 9, 2015 | 02:39 PM
  #47697  
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From: Parham, ON
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Originally Posted by FruitSnacks
How much snow did you get? All we got in minnesnowta was crazy wind making drifts....
About 9" in most places. Tons of drifts, nothing less than 6". Went outside to shovel, came back in after 10 minutes, and I hear "How bad is it out there?" "Well I just got the landing in front of the door done. Next I'm doing the steps." "Guess you want some help huh?"

It was fine. Light fluffy stuff, sun was out and felt like only -5°C or so. Too lazy to convert, that's roughly 20°F I guess. Did most of it with no toque or coat.
Old Jan 9, 2015 | 04:10 PM
  #47698  
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From: Maui
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default Greaseable U-Joint

This weekend I'm installing a couple Spicer X series u-joints on my 99 XJ. How often will these need to be greased? Also, would just standard suspension grease be what I use?
Old Jan 9, 2015 | 04:31 PM
  #47699  
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From: Minnesota
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by salad

About 9" in most places. Tons of drifts, nothing less than 6". Went outside to shovel, came back in after 10 minutes, and I hear "How bad is it out there?" "Well I just got the landing in front of the door done. Next I'm doing the steps." "Guess you want some help huh?"

It was fine. Light fluffy stuff, sun was out and felt like only -5°C or so. Too lazy to convert, that's roughly 20°F I guess. Did most of it with no toque or coat.
I like those winter days that are nice like that. I wear shorts to work year round, but lately I've just been throwing some sweat pants on over them and taking them off when i punch in lol
I wish i could get some help shoveling
But my wife is carrying my child, so i guess i can't complain too much haha
Old Jan 9, 2015 | 06:40 PM
  #47700  
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From: Huntsville, Tn
Year: Different Years (I have several XJ's)
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
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Anyone know how to get the gear shifter off to replace the shift indicator bezel?



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