Haha yup, from pulling plugs.

 

Oh also, my rear doors are acting up. I can open them from the inside only. I read somewhere that you can adjust the hex head screw inside the door panel(while the door is open) and it should help, but it didnt work for me on either door. Any ideas?

 

Is it true you don't really need the rear sway bar and a lot of people take them off the back?

 

Yup. Ditch mines many moons ago. I feel if you tow you should at least have HD or go after market leafs for the weight but other than that its pointless

 

Rear sway is not necessary but my jeep handled much better with it while using 'soft-ride' leaf springs (3 leaf with overload leaf). After switching to 7 leaf springs I could remove it without ill effects.

 

Alright, swapping a different booster and MC in my 91. I finally got the booster arm hooked up everything bolted down, ran new lines to the prop valve.

Got my sister to come help me bleed them and I can't get any pressure to the bleeder ports. At one point the pedal wouldn't even come back off the floor. I unhooked the lines from the MC and fluid was coming out. I reattached still no pressure at the passenger rear drum. Tried the front lines to see if there was pressure I had some then after attempting to bleed them it lost all of its pressure too.

Anyone know what the issue might be?

 

hi Y'all

Does anyone know what the coolant sensor resistance should be cool and hot -- if I pull it the electric fan comes on but the check engine light also comes on
(the one on the thermostat housing that turns on the electric fan)



thanks

John Kruse

 

What year? There are three different (common) generations.

 

Did you bench bleed the MC first? If not you have very little chance of getting the trapped air out.

 

Yea I got it all sorted out in the "what did you do to your Cherokee today" thread. I'm going to bleed the MC tomorrow

 

It's a 1996 Cherokee country with a 4.0L 4wd

 

Found this:

Resistance data for a 1991-1998 4.0 coolant sensor.

Keep in mind that the numbers are for the sensor removed from the engine, in a beaker of water, and using a calibrated thermometer. Ballparking ambient air temperature and measuring with the sensor still installed will NOT be as accurate. That being said, if you get an 880 ohm reading with a fully hot engine, using below chart and assuming you are testing with sensor still in the engine, your sensor is probably okay.

176 degrees farenheit has a spec between 1,170 ohms and 1,340 ohms
194 degrees farenheit has a spec between 860 ohms and 970 ohms
212 degrees farenheit has a spec between 640 ohms and 720 ohms
230 degrees farenheit has a spec between 480 ohms and 540 ohms

 

I need to replace the front track bar bracket on my '99 XJ. XJ is stock height. What options do I have? I used this part # to find the bracket (52007121) and I am coming up with nothing.

 

http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/...roduct=4608015

Item 4 not available. Not surprising. Best bet is a junk yard.

 

Could pulling a rear sway bar create a lean to one side? Pulled mine and I have a lean. Granted my 4.5 inch rough country coils were used before I put them on, maybe they are just old and sagged