Yeah, I drained it as much as I could then filled it up with 3.75 quarts of Dex/Merc. I'm going to drive around a few days then drain it again.

 

I seem to recall reading somewhere that the trans was originally designed for Dex/Merc, so that's what I used when I did a drain and fill a couple years ago. So far, so good.

 

Does anyone have a copy of installation instructions for HD offroad no lift shackle relocators? All the image links in the write ups I found are broken, there's a PDF linked from the HD Offroad website. Its linked through NAXJA though and I don't have an account or if I do I don't remember the email. I also can't find where to register. I just wanted to see a couple pics.

 

I found some.

 

Link for interested parties?

 

This is the link from the pic on Google image search....

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/w...ators-1518314/


It didn't show any pics when I followed the link... Lol.

Here's what I seen, which is what I wanted.





Which told me what I wanted to know.

 

Here's the whole pic.



Don't know why I didn't do that in the first place.

 

Is it normal after a disc brake swap to have a slightly less stiff brake pedal? It doesnt just drop to the floor and appears to brake ok (I haven't test driven yet in an abandoned lot)... just felt like the pedal didnt resist as much as with drums. I read somewhere that this is common. I did not swap prop valves or MC's. Still have the stock '91 booster. Brakes were bled fine. No leaks. Also, the pre-cut hardline I had to get from Autozone was a bit longer than needed. I had to put a couple extra bends in the hardline (no kinks). Would this cause an issue?

 

Length of the line is not an issue.

Go break them in first.

As far as the prop valve, my brakes worked better with the guts of the donor ZJ's prop valve inside my stock valve.

 

Was the gut swap hard to do? I am hoping the brakes will be good once I pump them a few more times and let them seat. I need this Jeep to work with me... wife is already peeved at how long this project took lol.

 

Bleed em once or twice more and break them in. My zj conversions were a lil soft at first with new motors and pads. Now they work great. Don't have pv guts in yet

 

Super easy. Waaaaay easier than swapping the whole valve. If you 've done a rear disc swap, the gut swap is a walk in the park.

 

I'm guessing the guts are something to be found at the JY? Basic hand tools? From what I see it involves removing an assembly from the front of the prop valve, reassemble with some finger manipulating, and bleed all brakes.

 

Adjustable wrench to hold the prop valve still and a 3/4" wrench to remove the nut/guts of the prop valve. Spring loaded though......

When you do this, would you take some photos and post them up please?

 

Certainly will!